-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through April 13, 2016
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2004
- Messages
- 394
- displayname
- Jim Storma
Dale, Check the cam lock on the right side with the large black knob. Could be the the knob came loose and the cam wiggled down limiting the travel when the blade was raised.
He said he was moving gravel. Lock pin probably installed.
149 hyd lift problem found. It turned out to be the cam lock on the outside of the frame. The black knob was really tight,but the cam contacted at the highest point. I loosened the knob,moved the cam and the lift now works properly.Thanks to all who chimed in."THAT WAS EASY"
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Mike F - the K341A got a new piston, rings and rod, but the original balance gears and I think even the original C-clip that holds them. I'm not running at high rpms. I think I have full throttle set for 3600rpms but even in a parade only push it to about 3000rpms.
And the prize goes to Jim Storma for his hydraulic diagnosis.
mfrade
Well-known member
Oh well.. back to your own judgement call Mr Harry. lol.. I've been working on mine, it's going together slow. Working on the carb now.
May have created my own Hydro problem. Have a 129. Used the FAQ to help me repair the Trunion arm. I was a little apprehensive having never worked on hydraulics before. But the whole thing went very well. Thank you for that. It was actually easy. As I finished , before putting on the drive shaft cover. I drove it back and forth several times, it worked perfect. Topped off the hydro fluid after circulating. As I parked it I noticed the speed handle was slightly off for pointing at neutral. So I adjusted the Speed control connecting rod. Figuring neutral is still neutral and speed handle would be centered. Put last cover on and started it again. This time an awful noise came from it. A fast chatter almost like a gear grind. Pulled the cover , just cranking the engine created the chatter noise. All the hydro controls were rattling. Don't understand how the adjustment I made would do this. Or could it be something else.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Gol dang it - Jim Storma wins a prize and has only been a member 12 years. I thought you had to be a member for at least 2 decades before you were eligible for prizes.
Mike F - hey I should have mention besides the new piston rings and rod it also got the crank ground .010 under and the cylinder honed up to perfection by none other than Kenny W, Mr. Fix It extrodinaire. (the piston was a .003 over Mahle from Kohler which they had available at that time and worked perfect).
I keep going back and forth on removing the balance gears. I don't think it has that much vibration but you can hear the gears if you listen closely. I had Dave Calkins listen to it out here and he did say he can hear some cam noise. I was thinking of tearing it apart, removing balance gears and installing David Kirk's kit, and having Dave work the cam over too.
What's a guy to do with a Trailer Queen?
Gary C - not sure what you've really done. You're saying you now have a "fast chatter almost like a gear grind". Is it possible this is the hydro pump whinning? Does it go away if you move your speed control lever slightly forward or reverse?
If so then when your lever is centered at "N" your pump is not in neutral. I'd adjust your linkage back to where it was, and then study up on the neutral centering for the pump and the lever. I'm not the one to provide those details. Maybe someone on here has some easy methods to explain.
Mike F - hey I should have mention besides the new piston rings and rod it also got the crank ground .010 under and the cylinder honed up to perfection by none other than Kenny W, Mr. Fix It extrodinaire. (the piston was a .003 over Mahle from Kohler which they had available at that time and worked perfect).
I keep going back and forth on removing the balance gears. I don't think it has that much vibration but you can hear the gears if you listen closely. I had Dave Calkins listen to it out here and he did say he can hear some cam noise. I was thinking of tearing it apart, removing balance gears and installing David Kirk's kit, and having Dave work the cam over too.
What's a guy to do with a Trailer Queen?
Gary C - not sure what you've really done. You're saying you now have a "fast chatter almost like a gear grind". Is it possible this is the hydro pump whinning? Does it go away if you move your speed control lever slightly forward or reverse?
If so then when your lever is centered at "N" your pump is not in neutral. I'd adjust your linkage back to where it was, and then study up on the neutral centering for the pump and the lever. I'm not the one to provide those details. Maybe someone on here has some easy methods to explain.
Attachments
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Gary C.-
Is the cooling fan rubbing on the linkage?
Is the cooling fan rubbing on the linkage?
Harry
Not the normal whine. It seems hydro is vibrating the shaft and arm coming out of the tranny. Shaking all the other controls, the noise is mostly coming from the shaking controls.
All this happens even before the engine starts.
Going back out to look at it some more and play with the controls. Before I ask the question I was just thinking of.
Usually don't get enough garage time. I still have 2 - 3 weeks before I have to mow. Got 24"+ of spring snow coming this weekend. Grass Will Green Up Now.
Matt
Cooling fan has plenty of room. It's still the original fan, don't think it would hold up hitting anything anyway. Good thought though.
Thanks Gary
Not the normal whine. It seems hydro is vibrating the shaft and arm coming out of the tranny. Shaking all the other controls, the noise is mostly coming from the shaking controls.
All this happens even before the engine starts.
Going back out to look at it some more and play with the controls. Before I ask the question I was just thinking of.
Usually don't get enough garage time. I still have 2 - 3 weeks before I have to mow. Got 24"+ of spring snow coming this weekend. Grass Will Green Up Now.
Matt
Cooling fan has plenty of room. It's still the original fan, don't think it would hold up hitting anything anyway. Good thought though.
Thanks Gary
Gary C.
How far did you adjust the lever? I wonder if it is adjusted to the point that you pasted neutral and went the other side of N. This would be like trying to start the tractor with the speed lever some place other than N. I would adjust back and see if it goes away
Jim
How far did you adjust the lever? I wonder if it is adjusted to the point that you pasted neutral and went the other side of N. This would be like trying to start the tractor with the speed lever some place other than N. I would adjust back and see if it goes away
Jim
Harry B.
Jim P.
Adjusting connector rod back didn't change anything.
BUT. I got it. Harry now going back and reading your suggestion you were on track. I just didn't understand neutral centering. (excuse my terminology). I thought the brake being set, catching the notch in the center of the cam, set the neutral. With Harry thinking it was not in neutral got me to look at that. I released the brake, pushed the safety switch and cranked to find neutral. Then realized the pin that should rest in the notch of the cam was off by a 1/2". Stared at it for a while, and realized when I mounted the cam base at the same time I was setting the tranny. I missed that there was a ton of travel for adjustment.
It's good to keep learning on these old beauties.
Thanks for the help
Jim P.
Adjusting connector rod back didn't change anything.
BUT. I got it. Harry now going back and reading your suggestion you were on track. I just didn't understand neutral centering. (excuse my terminology). I thought the brake being set, catching the notch in the center of the cam, set the neutral. With Harry thinking it was not in neutral got me to look at that. I released the brake, pushed the safety switch and cranked to find neutral. Then realized the pin that should rest in the notch of the cam was off by a 1/2". Stared at it for a while, and realized when I mounted the cam base at the same time I was setting the tranny. I missed that there was a ton of travel for adjustment.
It's good to keep learning on these old beauties.
Thanks for the help
I've been doing the garden thing for a couple of days and thought I'd showcase the guys for a moment.
I used the 149 for the turning and harrowing then the 1650 took over with the tilling. I was amazed how well the 1650 did after sitting for a few months. It pays to drain the carb and disconnect the battery apparently.
.
I used the 149 for the turning and harrowing then the 1650 took over with the tilling. I was amazed how well the 1650 did after sitting for a few months. It pays to drain the carb and disconnect the battery apparently.
.
Attachments
I'm pretty sure you have to loosen the pivot bolt and rotate the angle bracket further toward the rear of the tractor to increase the RPM's. The bracket is the throttle stop.
