Matt, none of the Kohler carbs have plastic floats ? This is a replacement 12hp K301 engine and not the original engine. The carb does have 3 adjustments. I will take the carb off tomorrow and post pics of it and the plastic float.
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Archive through April 13, 2012
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- Home of the Plow Special
Kurt-
That's a FANTASTIC idea, but I don't know that I could resist the urge to put some wheels on and ride it around the shop for a bit.
That's a FANTASTIC idea, but I don't know that I could resist the urge to put some wheels on and ride it around the shop for a bit.
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- Jim Storma
I've been hearing a clicking noise from under the tunnel cover. I noticed #5 has a lot of movent on the pump shaft. After measuring with a caliper it seems be be quite oversized compared to the ones on the shaft. I want to get a replacement, but am a little stumped when it comes to the parts look up. My set up has the ball bearing in it(#50). It also has only one disc between the hydro pump and the drive shaft. It appears from the parts list I would need two. I would agree with this because it looks the the single disc is over streched to make the bolt connections between the two.
In the list it calls out for the drive shaft:
1 IH-140079-C1 Shaft, Drive | (Replaces IH-61125-C4 on tractors w/Serial No. 622951 & below by also order disc 722-3000 & four bolts 710-0520. My serial # is 61544.
Since the new part # replaces the old one. Is it possible they changed the set up? Are there two different shaft for the disc spacing?
Reason, I do not know what the previous owner did, They could have put in a new drive shaft that calls for two disc's but did not know, and only used one?
Also, Is it normal for #5 to wear on the shaft? I'm going to check the shaft for straigtness as well.
Any help in sorting this out is appreciated.
I have a 125 with a hydraulic unit. The shaft seal behind the pulley is leaking and I have to put a new seal in it. I ordered the seal and was wondering what is involved in taking this apart. Anyone have any advice?
Thanks,
Earl
Thanks,
Earl
jchamberlin
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Jim Storma
Sounds like you're into it pretty deep!
What model tractor are you working on? You only gave us the serial number.
From your description, I would say its possible that the previous owner replaced the #5 part with one designed for a larger diameter shaft. There should not be any play whatsoever between #5 and the shaft; in fact, most questions regarding that area of the tractor involve getting the part OFF the pump shaft.
By-the-way, good post, and I think you're very wise to ask the question; I "fixed" my drive shaft several times before I had it right, and I never would have gotten there if it had not been for the sharp eyes of Matt Gonitzke on this site.
Note: Some folks wouldn't need the model number reference to identify your setup; but it seems to be later than my 149 (no pin & cup at the front), but earlier than my 782 (single disks) --so I'm guessing a Quiet Line of some sort.
Edit: I checked Parts Lookup for a 1250 and the diagram & text matches the one you posted. For something like this, I would call a well-established sponsor like Cub Cadet Specialties who can help you sort it out AND sell you the part(s) you need.
Sounds like you're into it pretty deep!
What model tractor are you working on? You only gave us the serial number.
From your description, I would say its possible that the previous owner replaced the #5 part with one designed for a larger diameter shaft. There should not be any play whatsoever between #5 and the shaft; in fact, most questions regarding that area of the tractor involve getting the part OFF the pump shaft.
By-the-way, good post, and I think you're very wise to ask the question; I "fixed" my drive shaft several times before I had it right, and I never would have gotten there if it had not been for the sharp eyes of Matt Gonitzke on this site.
Note: Some folks wouldn't need the model number reference to identify your setup; but it seems to be later than my 149 (no pin & cup at the front), but earlier than my 782 (single disks) --so I'm guessing a Quiet Line of some sort.
Edit: I checked Parts Lookup for a 1250 and the diagram & text matches the one you posted. For something like this, I would call a well-established sponsor like Cub Cadet Specialties who can help you sort it out AND sell you the part(s) you need.
Tom F.
Just a thought!!!!!
Those guys on sleezebay that supposedly rebuild PTO's use USED parts to rebuild them!
Read the description real close.
A new clutch disc does not constitute a rebuilt PTO.
Springs are weak and I guarantee you that the pressure plate surfaces are NOT trued up removing high and low spots as well as hard spots like they should be.
Just a thought!!!!!
Those guys on sleezebay that supposedly rebuild PTO's use USED parts to rebuild them!
Read the description real close.
A new clutch disc does not constitute a rebuilt PTO.
Springs are weak and I guarantee you that the pressure plate surfaces are NOT trued up removing high and low spots as well as hard spots like they should be.
Clutch question for my 1000. Its finally running after trashing the clutch with the first mowing last year! Its been a long project and the MWSC clutch took a lot more effort to put in than I thought.
My question... I assume the throwout arm is suppose to be off the throwout bearing under normal driving conditions. Is that correct? In order for the arm to not hit the driver pins I had crank it down so there is always pressure on it. I didnt think this is right so I contacted MWSC. They gave me a few ideas, one of them made me believe they didnt even know how their own clutch was built, but relocating the throwout arm bracket forward, reducing the arm's angle, might work. But before I start modding things I figure I'd ask your alls advice.
I know this is 'aftermarket' so if it needs to go in another forum let me know.
I've used the tractor a few times now, to mow, to haul wood in the woods, and it works great. But I'm worried about the life of the throwout bearing if its always got pressure on it?
Pic: http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/IMG_0753.jpg
You can see without the throwout hooked up and just sitting there its hitting the driver pins. To get about 1/4" clearance I had to crank down on the spring a bunch.
My question... I assume the throwout arm is suppose to be off the throwout bearing under normal driving conditions. Is that correct? In order for the arm to not hit the driver pins I had crank it down so there is always pressure on it. I didnt think this is right so I contacted MWSC. They gave me a few ideas, one of them made me believe they didnt even know how their own clutch was built, but relocating the throwout arm bracket forward, reducing the arm's angle, might work. But before I start modding things I figure I'd ask your alls advice.
I know this is 'aftermarket' so if it needs to go in another forum let me know.
I've used the tractor a few times now, to mow, to haul wood in the woods, and it works great. But I'm worried about the life of the throwout bearing if its always got pressure on it?
Pic: http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/IMG_0753.jpg
You can see without the throwout hooked up and just sitting there its hitting the driver pins. To get about 1/4" clearance I had to crank down on the spring a bunch.
Here's a pic of my leaking carb from my K301,
the float is filled with gas, must be a needle size hole because I cannot find it. If you look closely at the float you can see the gas in it.
Matt, you were right, it's a Walbro carb with a plastic float.
the float is filled with gas, must be a needle size hole because I cannot find it. If you look closely at the float you can see the gas in it.
Matt, you were right, it's a Walbro carb with a plastic float.
