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Archive through April 13, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Hello everyone, I put new seals in two hydro pumps, put everything back together, and the first trans worked like a charm... The second... not so much. Are there any tricks in priming a pump? How long can I run it with out damaging it with out it working?

The first hydro I made into a "little" tractor had a leak in the pump. I only discovered it 2 days from delivery. I have devised an electric "tester" that I mount on the top of the trans, and runs the pump with a belt. I've used this on four transmissions so far with good luck.

Thanks,
Kurt

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ok so it wont through off the balance in anyway if it. and it sould splash enough oil to keep the motor lubed
 
OK - I've got good ISO mounts (Original IH ones), new snubbers - thanks Charlie, muffler crutch and super steer upgrade kit - thanks Kirk Engines, head and oil pan gaskets, engine out of the 1650, ISO bars off the engine ready for a cradle mod and mower deck lift/belt assy removed from the tractor.

Tomorrow I plan on jacking up the tractor and checking the front axle - question: Should there be any front to back play in the front axle? If so, how much? I've got a little, but that is with the tires in place. I'll know more when I jack up the tractor.

Another question: I laid the oil pan bolted to the iso bars into the tractor frame. I don't see how it is possible to install the iso cradle in the frame first and then set the engine on it. I'm not sure how or if there is room to get to the bolts that fasten it to the oil pan. It looks to me like you have to have the engine cradle bolted complete to the engine and let that assy down on the iso mounts. Have I got this mixed-up? Can someone tell me the proper way to re-install this quiteline engine?
 
Bill J - just jump on in there (here) and con-tribute!!! That's a great u-tube link. Did you get a set of those Brownell's yet??? He mentions firearms but my 169 has got to be similar and just as good. Thanks for posting the link.

(under edit) Bill J - better get us a pic of your ISO-bars and pan layin in the frame. Somethings outta wack. There should be no play between the axle channel and axle where it rides on the center pin. The channel should be snug right against the axle on both sides, but not tight. The axle still has to be able to move on the pin side to side, but it's not supposed to rock front to back. (Sorry I don't have scientific terms).

Chad C - have yourself a good look at the pump and around it. The cork gasket is the common problem but others on here have mentioned other pump areas also having a leak, which I've never had. As for filters, I'm diehard CCC. There are to many internal differences even when they cross-reference correctly. I think the FAQs may have a cross reference if you want to try something else.

Kurt S - sorry I never had a pump apart to help ya there. Time for others to chime in.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
(they just keep on pumpin and pumpin and pumpin)
 
Kurt Smith

I have loosened the hydro valves to burp the hydro and pored hytran in the pump with the valves removed .Make sure you cover the loose valves with a rag so the fluid does not spray everywhere when the pump gets it`s prime.If that don`t work the pin might be broken in the charge pump. I always fill the filter with as much fluid as it will hold before I install it.Never had much problems if the filter was full and the hydro valve area filled and burped.
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Hydro H
I have a plastic seat on my 147 not oem , but it will not ever crack like the oem seats I have here all have now.seat seem not to last and my tractors don`t sit out side much.I could use three new seats for my tractors.
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Cory, I had the same conserns. The part numbers match,I have wondered if it had to do with when they started casting all the 10-14 horse blocks with 301. The same casting gets three times the use.
The one I expirienced had no ill effects, didn't bounce around or anything. It don't get run hard regularly but does have some time on it, still going. Keep the same length as the original and shape it alike. best I can tell you.
 
Has anyone run across a cost effective fuel shut off valve for a plastic fuel tank in a quietline? Looked at our sponsors and all the ones are in the $30+ area. Maybe there is something they offer that I am not aware of. Mine are leaking! I have 2 different styles which are a pull style with a round head and the other is a red lever style.
 
Mark-

Are you sure it's not the $5 rubber grommet that's leaking? That's what usually leaks on the plastic tanks.
 
Hey Mark, my 682 has a shutoff 1/4 inlet and outlet i have seen them on cub cadet parts.com i believe for around ten bucks. Maybe that will work for you. Or maybe a disassemble and clean/inspect would fix ya.
 
Mark-
The redneck, shade-tree mechanic in me is crying out to tell you to see if you can find exactly where its leaking from and then seal it in any way. i seriously doubt it will work, but, if it would happen to, it'll save you a few bucks. (for now, at least)
 
Hey Guys, I have a 126 with a 12hp engine,today I released the gas shutoff and gas immediately started leaking from the carb. I removed the carb from the engine and then removed the bowl. I noticed that the plastic float is filled with gas. Is the float suppose to have gas inside it ? If so what else should I be looking for ?
Thanks

Dave
 
Dave,

Float should be empty, so that it will float, so that it will shut off the fuel when the bowl is full.
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Dave H., our sponsers(<font size="-2">see business cards above</font>) have low cost kits for carbs and can get them to you in a few days. Easy fix even for 'shade tree' mechanics !
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Thanks Ken and Allen, I didn't think the float looked right flled with gas, the carb kit is on order. Thanks again and I love this site.
 
Dave H - I've never heard of or seen a plastic float for the Kohler carbs. Any chance you can post a pic of it? Don't know which kit you ordered but it will probably have a needle and seat as well. Although it sounds like your float was the problem, sometimes the needle won't seat and allow the gas to overflow out the edges of the bowl.

(under edit) ["Shade Tree Mechanic" definition = one who parks his tractor out of the hot sun and under/near/close to a shade tree and replaces parts]
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Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but spring a leak now and then)
 
Plastic float = POS non-adjustable Walbro replacement carb. It'd probably be worth your while to look for a Kohler carb to rebuild instead.
 
Harry, the gas is leaking from inside the carb not from the edges of the bowl. I will post the pics of the float when I replace it sometime next week. Thanks guys.

Dave
 

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