Clark M.
Go to the Topics section, scroll down to the wiring diagrams thread.
Go to the Topics section, scroll down to the wiring diagrams thread.
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Archive through April 09, 2015
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jchamberlin
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- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Hey Nic, Mike is many things, but arrogant isn't one of them.
I think I understand what he is trying to say; he has a method, it works for him, and he believes he could have gotten the pin out in less time than it took me to cut it with a Sawzall, carry it to another location, heat it with a torch and (basically) beat it with a hammer.
(I'm not sure the arbor press added much to the job --just kind of kept the hammer on task and prevented the kinds of injuries when the hammer head misses the chisel the hand is holding.)
Now to respond to Mike's challenge, I was not wanting to drill the pin, not once, twice or three times. A torch is much quicker and easier (to me, at least). And even with a nicely lined up hole the length of the pin exposing the interior of the axle without cutting it, the penetrant would still need some time to work it's magic. (Aside: personally, I don't know how you could get the hole drilled straight without putting the piece in a drill press, and if you still have the axle in the frame, I don't know how you would manage that. I'm sure I could not drill a hole that straight with a hand-held drill.) Back to the challenge, if you compare the two days it took me to get the axle into work and onto the bench, it is probably a wash between my saw/torch --hammer, and your drill/drip --hammer.
With your method, there is also the sense of satisfaction which comes from out-smarting the pin and employing hard-won drilling skills while accomplishing the job with the least amount of effort and expense. The torch, press, hammer method is all about power and more of it. Next time I think it would be worth the risk of carrying it to the main shop where a HYDRAULIC press is available (damn the cameras).
.
Edit: If I had used my own torch, in my own shop, I estimate I could have had it out in less than half an hour; 5 minutes for each cut, 5 minutes to heat it, and 5 minutes to beat it out. Add another 5 minutes to drill Charlie's pilot hole (even I could drill a hole like that) and I come up with 25 minutes total.
I think I understand what he is trying to say; he has a method, it works for him, and he believes he could have gotten the pin out in less time than it took me to cut it with a Sawzall, carry it to another location, heat it with a torch and (basically) beat it with a hammer.
(I'm not sure the arbor press added much to the job --just kind of kept the hammer on task and prevented the kinds of injuries when the hammer head misses the chisel the hand is holding.)
Now to respond to Mike's challenge, I was not wanting to drill the pin, not once, twice or three times. A torch is much quicker and easier (to me, at least). And even with a nicely lined up hole the length of the pin exposing the interior of the axle without cutting it, the penetrant would still need some time to work it's magic. (Aside: personally, I don't know how you could get the hole drilled straight without putting the piece in a drill press, and if you still have the axle in the frame, I don't know how you would manage that. I'm sure I could not drill a hole that straight with a hand-held drill.) Back to the challenge, if you compare the two days it took me to get the axle into work and onto the bench, it is probably a wash between my saw/torch --hammer, and your drill/drip --hammer.
With your method, there is also the sense of satisfaction which comes from out-smarting the pin and employing hard-won drilling skills while accomplishing the job with the least amount of effort and expense. The torch, press, hammer method is all about power and more of it. Next time I think it would be worth the risk of carrying it to the main shop where a HYDRAULIC press is available (damn the cameras).
Edit: If I had used my own torch, in my own shop, I estimate I could have had it out in less than half an hour; 5 minutes for each cut, 5 minutes to heat it, and 5 minutes to beat it out. Add another 5 minutes to drill Charlie's pilot hole (even I could drill a hole like that) and I come up with 25 minutes total.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Jeremiah - you know what, I'm just glad you got that pin out. I've never seen one quite to that extent, and I think I've probably removed a couple dozen at least. I know one thing for sure. I thought rust in CT was tough, rust from NY tougher, and rust from PA terrible. I bought a roller tractor from SC one time, and even tho the price made it worth the cost of shipping I've never ever seen rust as hard as the stuff from SC. I've gotten a few parts out of the midwest areas and because I got pics first I didn't get stuff to rusty, but did get the impression it wasn't real hard stuff. So overall there is something to be said for the area you are resulting in how tough the rust is. I had forgotten that before when I told you to flip the frame over and use a BFH on that pin. I never had one not come out - but I never had one look like yours after it did come out.
Mike C - nice pic of your deck and I definitely see why your looking for a replacement. Sorta glad you didn't post a pic underneath cause it must be worse looking. I hope something works out with your other source that has 2 in storage. But if not I'd still get a good look at the other 2 you posted pics of. You might want to scroll thru CC Specialties web site page for deck parts to get an idea of the prices of replacement parts.
I would think between your deck and a replacement deck you'd come up with enough spindles with good bearings and pulleys (assuming you get a deck with the same stuff).
The idler arm, bolt and spring are always suspect. In my experience, even when they seem good the nut snaps off the bolt half the time when removing it. If you have a torch I'd heat the nut before you remove it. I never had a torch of my own, (never really had what I'd call a shop - it was a garage with extra space. To me a torch was only for someone that knew what they were doing - like my neighbor 2 houses down that was a retired machinist, had a torch, lathe, drill press, and just about anything else I seem to come up with a need for - boy I miss that guy). Anyway, here's a pic I stole off Charlie's web site, of the current idler arm bolt with grease zerk. It was a later style replacement. The spring you use with it almost always breaks when removing it too but Charlie's got both at pretty good prices. Good luck with your deck search and keep us informed.
(pic stolen without permission from CC Specialties website)
Ooh, and while you're looking those spindle covers make the deck look sorta nice, but truth is they trap grass underneath and if you don't clean it out all the time the covers rust and the deck will too. They are more of a safety thing to keep the belt and spindles covered.
If the deck you get doesn't have the "W" shaped grass guide underneath I think you can get the replacements but they used to be pretty costly. I used to bend mine up (with help from the neighbor I mentioned since he had one of those saws you could cut long strips of metal). I had made 2 or 3 extras one time so I had them to use as a guide for making new ones each time - otherwise if you don't know what you're making it will be trial and error.
And one more thing, if I didn't mention before. Those rear hanger brackets like to bend up and also pull thru the deck skins. Make sure you look closely on the underneath side of any deck for cracks around where they mount. Alot of the time I had to cut a reinforcing backing plate for the underside of the deck, and that W grass guide was in the way on some of the decks, but you can work around it, or cut a little slot thru it where it comes up against the deck skin.
Mike C - nice pic of your deck and I definitely see why your looking for a replacement. Sorta glad you didn't post a pic underneath cause it must be worse looking. I hope something works out with your other source that has 2 in storage. But if not I'd still get a good look at the other 2 you posted pics of. You might want to scroll thru CC Specialties web site page for deck parts to get an idea of the prices of replacement parts.
I would think between your deck and a replacement deck you'd come up with enough spindles with good bearings and pulleys (assuming you get a deck with the same stuff).
The idler arm, bolt and spring are always suspect. In my experience, even when they seem good the nut snaps off the bolt half the time when removing it. If you have a torch I'd heat the nut before you remove it. I never had a torch of my own, (never really had what I'd call a shop - it was a garage with extra space. To me a torch was only for someone that knew what they were doing - like my neighbor 2 houses down that was a retired machinist, had a torch, lathe, drill press, and just about anything else I seem to come up with a need for - boy I miss that guy). Anyway, here's a pic I stole off Charlie's web site, of the current idler arm bolt with grease zerk. It was a later style replacement. The spring you use with it almost always breaks when removing it too but Charlie's got both at pretty good prices. Good luck with your deck search and keep us informed.
(pic stolen without permission from CC Specialties website)
Ooh, and while you're looking those spindle covers make the deck look sorta nice, but truth is they trap grass underneath and if you don't clean it out all the time the covers rust and the deck will too. They are more of a safety thing to keep the belt and spindles covered.
If the deck you get doesn't have the "W" shaped grass guide underneath I think you can get the replacements but they used to be pretty costly. I used to bend mine up (with help from the neighbor I mentioned since he had one of those saws you could cut long strips of metal). I had made 2 or 3 extras one time so I had them to use as a guide for making new ones each time - otherwise if you don't know what you're making it will be trial and error.
And one more thing, if I didn't mention before. Those rear hanger brackets like to bend up and also pull thru the deck skins. Make sure you look closely on the underneath side of any deck for cracks around where they mount. Alot of the time I had to cut a reinforcing backing plate for the underside of the deck, and that W grass guide was in the way on some of the decks, but you can work around it, or cut a little slot thru it where it comes up against the deck skin.
HEY!!! You guys 'n' Gals all OK over there in central and northern ILL after yesterday/last night???
Just seen the news this AM and kind of wondering!!
Just seen the news this AM and kind of wondering!!
jlspicer
Well-known member
Dave,
I was wondering, too. Jeff B., everything OK your way?
The tornado/storm dropped down about 10 miles south/southeast from our place, jumped the Mississippi and gained steam heading into Illinois. We just had high winds/quarter sized hail. Blew three semis over on highway 61 here in DeWitt, shutting it down for a little while. No damage here but Clinton/Camanche had some damage and then over in Northern Illinois. Thoughts and prayers to any/all involved.
I was wondering, too. Jeff B., everything OK your way?
The tornado/storm dropped down about 10 miles south/southeast from our place, jumped the Mississippi and gained steam heading into Illinois. We just had high winds/quarter sized hail. Blew three semis over on highway 61 here in DeWitt, shutting it down for a little while. No damage here but Clinton/Camanche had some damage and then over in Northern Illinois. Thoughts and prayers to any/all involved.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Jeremiah Chamberlin (Jchamberlin) on Friday, April 10, 2015 - 12:26 am:
Hey Nic, Mike is many things, but arrogant isn't one of them.
I think I understand what he is trying to say; he has a method, it works for him, and he believes he could have gotten the pin out in less time than it took me to cut it with a Sawzall, carry it to another location, heat it with a torch and (basically) beat it with a hammer.
(I'm not sure the arbor press added much to the job --just kind of kept the hammer on task and prevented the kinds of injuries when the hammer head misses the chisel the hand is holding.)
Now to respond to Mike's challenge, I was not wanting to drill the pin, not once, twice or three times. A torch is much quicker and easier (to me, at least). And even with a nicely lined up hole the length of the pin exposing the interior of the axle without cutting it, the penetrant would still need some time to work it's magic. (Aside: personally, I don't know how you could get the hole drilled straight without putting the piece in a drill press, and if you still have the axle in the frame, I don't know how you would manage that. I'm sure I could not drill a hole that straight with a hand-held drill.) Back to the challenge, if you compare the two days it took me to get the axle into work and onto the bench, it is probably a wash between my saw/torch --hammer, and your drill/drip --hammer.
With your method, there is also the sense of satisfaction which comes from out-smarting the pin and employing hard-won drilling skills while accomplishing the job with the least amount of effort and expense. The torch, press, hammer method is all about power and more of it. Next time I think it would be worth the risk of carrying it to the main shop where a HYDRAULIC press is available (damn the cameras). .
Edit: If I had used my own torch, in my own shop, I estimate I could have had it out in less than half an hour; 5 minutes for each cut, 5 minutes to heat it, and 5 minutes to beat it out. Add another 5 minutes to drill Charlie's pilot hole (even I could drill a hole like that) and I come up with 25 minutes total.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
By Jeremiah Chamberlin (Jchamberlin) on Friday, April 10, 2015 - 12:26 am:
Hey Nic, Mike is many things, but arrogant isn't one of them.
I think I understand what he is trying to say; he has a method, it works for him, and he believes he could have gotten the pin out in less time than it took me to cut it with a Sawzall, carry it to another location, heat it with a torch and (basically) beat it with a hammer.
(I'm not sure the arbor press added much to the job --just kind of kept the hammer on task and prevented the kinds of injuries when the hammer head misses the chisel the hand is holding.)
Now to respond to Mike's challenge, I was not wanting to drill the pin, not once, twice or three times. A torch is much quicker and easier (to me, at least). And even with a nicely lined up hole the length of the pin exposing the interior of the axle without cutting it, the penetrant would still need some time to work it's magic. (Aside: personally, I don't know how you could get the hole drilled straight without putting the piece in a drill press, and if you still have the axle in the frame, I don't know how you would manage that. I'm sure I could not drill a hole that straight with a hand-held drill.) Back to the challenge, if you compare the two days it took me to get the axle into work and onto the bench, it is probably a wash between my saw/torch --hammer, and your drill/drip --hammer.
With your method, there is also the sense of satisfaction which comes from out-smarting the pin and employing hard-won drilling skills while accomplishing the job with the least amount of effort and expense. The torch, press, hammer method is all about power and more of it. Next time I think it would be worth the risk of carrying it to the main shop where a HYDRAULIC press is available (damn the cameras). .
Edit: If I had used my own torch, in my own shop, I estimate I could have had it out in less than half an hour; 5 minutes for each cut, 5 minutes to heat it, and 5 minutes to beat it out. Add another 5 minutes to drill Charlie's pilot hole (even I could drill a hole like that) and I come up with 25 minutes total.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Okay, I have the 71 wired up right, but things are weird. She turns over if I press the little black button on the magnetic switch, but turing the key does nothing. No spark, including a combo of button/key turn. I'm thinking either my magnetic switch, coil, or ignition switch is bad?
Also, what does that magnetic switch even do?
Also, what does that magnetic switch even do?
New owner comes to pick up the green 318 today. I have the new 149 running pretty good, correct fluid level in rear axle. A little unintended acceration to deal with, wheel weight bolts to trim, then I tried putting the deck on. Not so good I have the wrong mule drive and hanger. I have been all over archives and manuals. Wow lots of info about this. I put out a wanted ad and some one has 44 inch decks and drives from an 1811 that he thinks could fit. It is a little drive to check them out so I want to know will a 1811 drive and 44 inch deck fit my new 149? Grass is getting tall, wife is wondering why I got rid of a running mower for an older one that can't cut grass. John near KC
joligschlaeger
Well-known member
I have this 982 (Onan B48G), which appears to have a fuel pump (pulsating) problem. I need to put new fuel lines and filter on and has one partial line that is plugged with a screw.
How does this pump receive its vacuum to operate? If a line, where is it connected?
How does this pump receive its vacuum to operate? If a line, where is it connected?
John M., here is what the correct deck hanger/mule drive would look like for a 149 with 44" deck:
mconway
Well-known member
harry thanx for the pic. i've gotten parts from ccspecialties before, carb kit, choke cable, idler pulley and spring. and yup, this one is broke. i'll keep the forum informed whatever happens...here's another pic
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Jeremiah.... Glad you got that sucker out!
My pro mechanic neighbor who used to work on trucks showed me the trick of using a muffler gun with a plain blunt ended tool in it to break loose thoroughly stuck pins... The intense rapid vibration works miracles - especially with good penetrating oil on the really stuck stuff. BTW - used on the side of a tie rod end, you'll never go back to a pickle fork...
My pro mechanic neighbor who used to work on trucks showed me the trick of using a muffler gun with a plain blunt ended tool in it to break loose thoroughly stuck pins... The intense rapid vibration works miracles - especially with good penetrating oil on the really stuck stuff. BTW - used on the side of a tie rod end, you'll never go back to a pickle fork...
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Pickle Fork????? I have always used a BFH pn the side of the tapered casting.....loosen nut, whack on side, tie rod falls out......
I agree with the air chisel comment.......can be very effective, BUT, don't mushroom/expand the head of the pin using it....that makes it worse!!!!
I agree with the air chisel comment.......can be very effective, BUT, don't mushroom/expand the head of the pin using it....that makes it worse!!!!
Joel,
The Onan fuel pump has a port on the back side that passes into the flywheel shroud area. There is a hose connected to it. I forget where the hose connects to the engine, at the base of the carb comes to mind. I would check this hose for leaks.
Jim
The Onan fuel pump has a port on the back side that passes into the flywheel shroud area. There is a hose connected to it. I forget where the hose connects to the engine, at the base of the carb comes to mind. I would check this hose for leaks.
Jim
Mike C.
Too bad you don't live near me in SW Michigan. I have 3 decks I will never use and a very repairable shell like your mower deck needs. Every time I buy a tractor it comes with a mower deck I don't need.
Jim
Too bad you don't live near me in SW Michigan. I have 3 decks I will never use and a very repairable shell like your mower deck needs. Every time I buy a tractor it comes with a mower deck I don't need.
Jim
I am looking to find the engine specification for the Kohler K-301 in my 1250.
Charlie's FAQ #20 has everything listed except the Quietline series. Would I use the specification for the 129, the 680, or something else?
Thank you in advance.
Brian Wittman
Charlie's FAQ #20 has everything listed except the Quietline series. Would I use the specification for the 129, the 680, or something else?
Thank you in advance.
Brian Wittman
mconway
Well-known member
this is about 2 hrs away but wasn't the 1250 a quietline? $130 don't look in bad shape. hoping to hear back on that 42" w/subframe. i'll be back...
