Archive through April 09, 2012

[hydroharry]

Wayne - those 2 little bolts laying on the head look like they may be for the tin cover over your muffler that is attached to your muffler duct. I see what look like 2 new screws holding the cover onto it. If this isn't where they go then maybe they are supposed to go into the 2 screw holes in the muffler duct, that are close together (about an inch apart) that would hold one side of that "L" shaped hoisting bracket Kohler uses.

You're sure lucky you noticed that Stover Nut, otherwise your drive shaft may have come flying out of there in the near future. Someone on here posted that you are only supposed to use them one time and replace if they are removed. Sounds like you might want to find 2 new ones. If you keep throwing nuts around like that the squirrels are gonna show up for a party.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but things do get loose sometimes)

 

[rbeem]

Wayne, The BIGGER problem appears to be the Briggs & Scrapiron Sticker on that Kohler....eeeeewwww.

 

[mgerecke]

Just got done adding headlights and taillights to my 1250. I have a question on how the wiring is routed in the rear fender pan. When it comes off the frame, does it go up into the battery box, or under it? Also where does the wiring go through the fender pan to the taillights? Any pictures would help.

 

[hydroharry]

Mark G - congrats on being able to see in the dark. Lights are a nice addition. Sorry I don't have a pic but maybe Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos will have something. It's going to be difficult to describe but I'll attempt (of course, from my poor memory). What I can tell you is the wire does "not" go thru the battery box and does "not" go under it. IH used little fancy Z shaped clips to hold the wire on the frame. One side of the Z has some bent teeth to hold the clip tight on the frame and the other side of the Z has a smooth spring slot so you can push the wire into it and it will stay in the slot. One of these clips is placed on the top part of the frame rail almost at the end of the frame and just past the back of the battery box. The toothed part of the clip goes on the frame rail and the snooth side is then below the frame rail. The wire splits into two wires just after this point with one wire to each tail light. As I recall there is a small slot opening where the underside of the fender meets the support brace, and this slot is just big enough for another Z clip to hold the each wire at this point, and then the wire continues over to the light assembly base. You'll have to look closely to see this slot, and you can just barely get the wire connector thru these little slots. It will take a little work to figure the correct routing to get it thru. I wish I had a picture but IH figured it out quite well and it ends up being a neat fitting job once done correctly. Hope this is helpful.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they work day and night)

 

[wshytle]

I know what you mean Rick. I actually didn't even notice that sticker until after the picture was taken. I was so pissed about the mouse house. I think this was a replacement engine. I bought the 1650 it was in just for this engine to put it where it is now.

Don-

Did you "true up" that oil pan and finally get rid of that leak?

 

[dfrisk]

PAUL R. - Great suggestion about the Farm Oyl liquid gear grease. There's many applications on equipment today that require lubrication for gears, bearings, chains, etc. Just plain old gun grease or wheel bearng grease doesn't flow at all, you need some sort of oil based lube. Might be a good idea to ask your parts counter person what they have available that would work. I know the guys with their off-color tractors built up in the marshes north and east of here use CORN HEAD Grease. There's gear boxes for every row of today's BIG combines, so 6, 8, and 12 or more per machine is common. One bad gearbox parks a $500,000 combine for the afternoon while it's being fixed.

I had a small 4-ton hyd bottle jack that was leaking oil until I used some left-over conventional 85W-140 gear oil in it a couple years ago. Now it's a warm weather ONLY jack, that thick oil doesn't flow well below 50 degrees but the jack doesn't leak.

Forty years ago I read every article in CYCLE Magazine about chain lubrication. Dirt bike chains were a terrible thing to keep lubricated, the combination of dirt, water, mud, road grime, sand, etc. Best suggestion I read was to put the chain in a large pan submerged in heavy oil and heat it till the oil just started smoking. The thinned out oil would penetrate the pins & bushings, then wipe the excess oil off and reinstall the chain.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Sorry, I don't have any photos of the taillight wiring on a QL, at least that I can find...

 

[cjrolke]

thought i would post were i was at on my daughters pink 72

as you can se eit is pink and she love it

 

[hydroharry]

Chris R - I just gotta say "She's a Beauty!!!"

Wayne - sharpen your fingernail, and start working at that B/S decal. I know it says authorized service or something similar, but if you're real lucky you'll be able to pull/peel it off and the original Kohler decal will still be there.
(under edit) - Hey, I'd leave the tin cover off and put the Spark Plug back in and connect the wire, and start her up. That air coming off the flywheel will blow all that stuff right out of there, and if there's still a mouse in there before you do this, I suspect it will be gone by the time you finish.

Kraig - Oh _ _ _ _ _ One Keeper of the Photos - not quite sure what to say.

Guys - Kraigs photo file is empty. Could any of you please lay on the ground with a camera behind your QL tractor, and looking up under the fenders, take a pic or 2 of the wiring for the tail lights??? (Wayne, you been pretty good with photos here recently).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes their wiring gets misplaced)

 

[dsollenberger]

Hello, I have a 1650 that came with a 44" deck, the serial tag is unreadable except for the actual serial #, I am assuming I have a 44A deck, can I swap it out with a 50C deck? I have compared the 2 and they seem the same. Thanks for your info on the PS swap out.