Archive through April 08, 2013

[tbdavis]

Frank - it would certainly seem that way. #9 & #10 are out. Set tranny on its butt, filled the hole with PB and pecked a little to see if the retainer would move and allow the PB to flow in. No movement from pecking. May well have to pop off the reduction housing to get at everything but will wait until someone chimes in before going any further. Only want to do this once if possible and am certain others have encountered this issue. Thank you.

 

[fcurrier]

Terry: That's why I think it's a good subject. I'll bet most of the hydro's have frozen brakes. I know they're adjustable, but it seems that if #11 doesn't come back (forward) a little when you let the brake off then it leaves #12 forced against the brake disk. (Isn't the rearward #12 stationary?). That leaves the forward #12 wearing out until #11 contacts the brake disk and 30 years from now that darn disk will be worn out! By then it could be NLA (instead of just costing $137).

 

[tbdavis]

Frank - would think #12 would be stationary and at least in theory what you've suggested sounds quite plausible. May open this thing up and have a look after all. I'll report back what I find.

 

[nbartee]

Charlie,

You saved me again! I hated the vibration in my 1450 so I followed your ISO installation detailed in Aug. 2012. I set everything loose, real loose. The nuts barely on the bolts and the rag joint bolts loose. Started it up and took about an hour adjusting the carburetor. The vibration at this point was definitely less than it was. Shut the engine off and tightened everything up. The ISO bolts are snug but you can still rotate them with your fingers. Reset the snubbers per the manual and started it back up. Much improvement, I can live with that!

Thanks for the info!!!

 

[tbdavis]

Ok Frank - removed the reduction gear, removed the four bolts holding the reduction housing on, separated the housing from the transmission, then removed the brake disk and drove the retainer out the front of the housing. Brake disk looks good, both pads look ok except for some nicks around the edges, and now gonna clean up the housing where the retainer sides through. Not a bad job but disk has two sides, one with welds and have already forgotten which side faces which.

Inside housing - note pad

Brake disk

Retainer with pad

 

[fcurrier]

Lookin' good! Any of the brake pads I've seen have been hardened "crispy critters". Pretty sure they're still available. Unsure on the disk welds - whatever way it seem to fit best, I guess. 50-50 chance! I'm running into the sameish problem with the K341 - didn't take enough pics while disassembling. "Oh, that shouldn't be hard to remember". Ya, right!

 

[tbdavis]

Frank - definitely lucked out on the brake disk and pads might just have to do. On the welds on the disk I'm hoping someone that has BTDT will chime in. Gonna replace the O ring on the retainer while its out and otherwise get a new ball bearing, gaskets and seal this baby back up! Appreciate your thoughts and suggestions!

 

[dschwandt]

Myron, For what it's worth (probably not a great deal) the ser # on the other weird hooded 1250 is 2050610U602877 which puts it about 21 months before mine which was built in oct of '78.

Dave S

 

[mbounds]

Dave S. it's not the one-up serial number that is critical. It's the 4 digit factory machine code between the number 205 and the Letter U. No one, as yet, has defined the difference between a Model 1250 having a 0630 machine code and a 0063 machine code. Likewise, the 0610 and the 0061. They are definitely two different meanings with the 0061 and 0063 being used on Cub Cadets sold through IH dealerships. So, the question is: What does having a 0610 or a 0630 mean? I have an opinion and can speculate but so can every one else. Maybe some day someone will turn up a documented answer from the IH archives at the U of Wisconsin.

 

[kostendorf]

I wish we knew more because my 1650 has as far as we know now a 1250 no. 2050630U612727 and my 16 hp engine was built the same month 8188890

 

[fcurrier]

Dave: In the "things that bug me" catagory: Could you post a pic of the underside of that hood? (If you haven't, already, and I missed it).

 

[tbdavis]

Frank - was thinking about the brakes and just curious what releases the pads from the disk? I can understand how pressure is applied but not clear on what pulls the brakes back apart. Maybe it sort of floats off the disk one foot pressure is released? Just curious.

 

[fcurrier]

That's all I can think of. A fraction of an inch is all it would take but #11 would have to be free to let that happen.

 

[mbounds]

Dave S. it's not the one-up serial number that is critical. It's the 4 digit factory machine code between the number 205 and the Letter U. No one, as yet, has defined the difference between a Model 1250 having a 0630 machine code and a 0063 machine code. Likewise, the 0610 and the 0061. They are definitely two different meanings with the 0061 and 0063 being used on Cub Cadets sold through IH dealerships. So, the question is: What does having a 0610 or a 0630 mean? I have an opinion and can speculate but so can every one else. Maybe some day someone will turn up a documented answer from the IH archives at the U of Wisconsin.

 

[fcurrier]

Dyslexia?

 

[thoffman]

Terry,
Don't forget that the brake pedal is spring loaded to the return position

 

[tbdavis]

Tom - technically that's correct! However, in my case the chump that sold me the tractor took a few liberties with it between the time I paid and the time I picked it up. No clutch or brake rods and no spring!

 

[thoffman]

Terry,
I'd be calling him more than a chump!

 

[dfrisk]

TERRY - I'd be paying the seller a little visit!

One the external disk brakes there should be little springs on the two pins/bolts that hold the brake pads that pushes them apart just a little. They aren't very big springs either, even without them the pads would retract enough to let the rotor spin free between them. There's NO retracting mechanism on disc brakes on cars/trucks.

On your 102 internal disk brake, I'd replace the friction pucks since your that far into the reduction housing already. Since the pucks are still in one piece I bet they were replaced once already. But the pucks are cheap. New o-ring and you'll have good brakes for another 30+ yrs. There's no retraction mechanism of the internal brake. It's a wet brake, they last a few years past forever in normal use.

 

[proessler]

Pat R., bring that dead horse/1650 up here! Go to FAQ then to Charlie's FAQ #1 & #84. May want try some Marvel Mystery oil. How about spark plug ? What about your fuel lines/ replace? How many hours on the 1650? Valve job?

P.S
A 16 hp short block is listed @ CC parts.com for $2,010 + tax & Shippping