Archive through April 08, 2010

[kide]

Marty:
With the screwdriver stuck in one end and the rod stuck in the other, a punch isn't what's needed....if it was pounded in, a slide hammer will "pound" it out..

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN LANG - Still got the Chicago Cub Cadet Special? The blue/white one?

KENTUCKY KEN - I agree, I think Tristan needs to cut the bar the casting pivots on. I have a bad feeling that screwdriver pounded in there has done something none of us has considered.

 

[kweaver]

He's either wedged it so tight between the rod and casting that it's wedging tighter trying to get it out OR he's curled the end of it up in there like a curly fry !

Kraig - Ya know I like ya dude BUT I wouldn't wish that slide hammer on even Art due to where it comes from !

 

[tdaugherty]

Hey Fellas,
I have taken off the old regulator, and i am trying to see whether i can use another newer looking regulator i have. Only im running into some help needed. My 124's regulator says GRD on the left, and then F, GEN, BAT on the right side. The newer regulator has a rear terminal which im not sure what goes on it, then it says F, BAT, and L on the right. Should i just hook the old GRD wire to L, and the GEN wire to the rear terminal? Thanks.

 

[kide]

If he cuts the screwdriver and the rod off the casting could be junk...(if ya can't pull 'em out when ya CAN grip 'em, it'll be a BORING job getting the rod out after it's cut off and the screwdriver shank could be a real GRIND)

 

[dfrisk]

KEN - "Normally" screwdrivers & chisels tend to eventually come out because of their taper. I agree with you on THAT screwdriver looking like a curly fry!

 

[kweaver]

Tim
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Should i just hook the old GRD wire to L<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="+2"><blink><font color="0000ff">NO !</font></blink></font>

"L" is LOAD

 

[kweaver]

Kendall - Flex of the frame is hurting his effort. Cut it out , clamp it or stand it vertical over a block of steel with a hole (anvil or ...) and get out a BFH's brother and a good steel blunt 1/2" end punch (NO BRASS as it'll mushroom) and get somebody with no brains and nerves of steel to hold the punch ... where's Hydro Harry when ya need him ...

Dennis - I've had punches and cold chisels stuck as bad as he has that one. Sometimes they just grip to much. (phone call)

 

[tstewart]

Yeah I plan on getting a slide hammer next time I am at harbor frieghts, and if I leave early enough for work I should be able to tomorrow evening. I've not used one before so I dont exactly know how they 'attach' but I worry about not being able to attach it. The previous suggestion about taking the handle off and bending it into a loop... not sure if I'm going to be able to do that. Cutting is last resort but I've already figured it may come to that. One other idea if I cut the screwdriver handle off if I would have enough room to get another punch inserted in the side with the screwdriver to finish pounding the big rod out. It was a 24oz hammer that I pounded it in with.

Kendall - btw they were BIG ratchet straps lol. Got to dangerous to go any more. Actually when I released the tension the resulting shock carried through the 6x6 post I was anchored to and the wall and broke away the 2x12 base from the pad. No biggie, just saying I had a lot of force on it. I know thats not the same as the sudden force from an impact though.

 

[tdaugherty]

OK, so what do i put on the L terminal of the newer regulator if my 124 has the GRD, F, GEN, and BAT wires? Which wire goes on the Left terminal on the rear of the regulator? I need some help, thanks!

 

[kweaver]

Tim - I had to look ...

Check out my old saved files , look from bottom of page up and you'll find it.

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?lm=1177369922&file=/22745/55466.html

 

[kweaver]

Tim
regulator-2.txt (0.9 k)
is the one to look for

 

[tdaugherty]

KENtucky KEN,
That helps a little, but i need to know where the existing wires on my 124, would go on a newer style regulator, like a conversion chart or somethin, and which existing wire would go on L and which wire goes on the rear terminal. I dont want to risk burning up something. Besides on the back of the old regulator it says 12v NEG POS, and on the new one it says 12v P/N. Is this a different type or not? I should really just get a New OEM old style regulator, so i dont risk burning up the wiring.

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, well I just used HF as an example of a slide hammer, didn't mean for him to get one there...

 

[pfunk]

Tim D. If you don't mind spending a little time reading, this might help. Hope it does.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tim, click HERE and scroll down to the regulator discussion. AND click HERE and scroll down to Keith LeJeune's Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 03:49 pm: post. Hopefully this will answer your regulator questions.

 

[digger]

On this regulator thing. IF someone wants to put something together concerning this problem, I'll sure add it to the FAQ's for future reference.

 

[digger]

I see where Paul F. sent me a ton of GOOD info last year on regulators. I guess I better use it, since he was nice enough to say we could.
Thanks Paul!

 

[aaytay]

John Lang-
I'm going "somewhere" this weekend...

 

[mgwin]

Just put a new head gasket on the 7hp. How long do you run the engine before retorquing the head bolts? I looked in both FAK's, but couldn't find the info.

I know it was just posted lately, but could I get a repeat? Thanks