Archive through April 06, 2016

[kmcconaughey]

Paul T., this is the closest that I have. I wish I had a higher resolution version. It might be for 1961 as it lists the Cub Cadet as "new".

You might also like this, even though it doesn't have prices. I can email a full resolution version, just let me know if you would like me to send it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul T., is this the one you found? I have a high resolution version of it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I also have a high resolution version of this:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, it appears to be a replacement K301. The PTO lever is just placed all the way forward, likely to remove the mower deck belt as detailed in the manual, see excerpt below. The rod is connected front and rear and it has a PTO clutch installed. The tie-wrap is a series of them the last of which is connected to the key, actually not a bad way to keep from losing the key...

The "button" on the side of the 106 hood appears to be a drawer pull. There is a matching one on the other side of the hood.

 

[prtombaugh]

Kraig Thanks for the info. The price lists you posted are exactly what I need. I'm just copying the information, so I don't need to have a hi-res sent.. I have all the other brochures. Thanks again!

 

[fcurrier]

Thought for the day: $620 for the tractor and $86 for the cart = $5650 in today's dollars.

 

[jsosbe]

Ok so my next question. There are 4 terminals on my regulator. B, L, and F. Then on the opposite side is the 4th. Am I correct in thinking the 4th is a ground wire? The F goes to the field side of the generator.. where do the B and the L need to go? It does not have headlights or any other electricals. Just checking myself. This thing has obviously been molested before I bought it. Thanks again for any help!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jason,

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jason, I assume this is on the 123 you mentioned a while back. If so, it should have had a 3 terminal regulator. The 4 terminal regulator should work, you'll just have to adapt it by wiring it correctly. Here's a 70/100 wiring diagram and a 1x2/3 series wiring diagram to compare. Oh, and the "load" would be the ignition circuit.

 

[mmasheris]

I am looking for the instructions for the older Brinly clamp on spring assist that clamps on the lift bar on the right side.

 

[ccarney]

Mike M.

Paul B. i thought had that. Paul? I got a reproduction of those and they do work if you put them on right. They are only for the y yoke style adpater and plow i'm sure you know

 

[ccarney]

this might help...

 

[ccarney]

sorry mike you meant the other 70/100 one! oh well, there's (irrelevant) pix...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mike, click HERE and scroll down.

 

[tsteinman]

Here we go, boys. April 2, 2016 Maynard, MN.
Cub 100 $750. Cub Original $1000. Cub 169 $1650. Cub 169 Red Puller $1100.
Feller in Black with sunglasses bought Original and 169.
Me? I bought a buncha Mower Decks/Under-carriages. Cheap. Locomotiveman Tom

 

[aewald]

Why would someone make a puller out of a rare model. Thats sad to see a nice unit ruined

 

[pbell]

Mike

This what you need? I had to take a picture of a picture, but you should be able to click on the picture and enlarge it.

 

[sblunier]

At least the kept the 169 together to make the puller....usually the 16hp big block gets yanked out and the rest gets scrapped!!!!!

 

[jsosbe]

Kraig, thank you very much for the help. Got it all wired up and it cranks as supposed to, but I still have one question... I have one terminal left over on the regulator (bat). Does it stay empty or do I need to run a wire somewhere? F to the field side. L to the hot side of the solenoid. GEN to the armature side of the generator. Sorry, wiring and electronics are my weak point in all this.

 

[tsteinman]

Cub Line-up April 2, 2016 Maynard, MN LocomotivemanTom