Archive through April 06, 2010

[kmcconaughey]

Tristan, I agree with those that mentioned that the screw driver has slipped and wedged between the rod and the casting. Looking at your top photo, it appears that the screw driver is centered and the cast top link is up on that end hinting that the screw driver tip has slipped off and wedged the rod. Do you have a slide hammer? If so, you could try to clamp one end to the screw driver and drive (pull) the screw driver back out. Might be a good idea to do Kendell's suggestion of removing the screwdriver handle and bend the shank into a hook.

<font size="+2">SLIDE HAMMER</font>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marty,

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marty, few more.

 

[ralmonrode]

I am posting before and after pics of my fully restored Cub 100.
Please keep in mind I restored my Cub to use and not to leave it in the tool shed to only pull out for parades on Sunday.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rick, nice job!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ronald H., with some fabrication you could install a clutch setup onto a Hydro Cub. Would be useful for cold weather starting. It won't be a simple drop in deal however.

 

[ralmonrode]

Thanks Kraig I had someone (Charlie) pushing me to upload my pictures.

 

[kweaver]

Kraig - Wasn't there a disconnect for the hydro shaft ? Seems like it was mentioned maybe 5 - 6 years ago ...

Tristan - Screwdrivers are for screws. You got off to a bad start by not using a blunt large diameter punch or a steel rod.

 

[rneubauer]

Cub Gods smiled upon me last night, must be because I saved a 1450 from the scrappile and have been applying TLC to it over the last few months. In my quest for the muledrive idler pulleys, I remembered that I picked up a narrowframe muledrive front awhile back. I looked and sure enought it has the 2 HD cast pulleys with replaceable bearings.

The knocked the surface rust off of the pulleys and installed them on the mule drive.

Put on my 10 dollar tiller drive belt and cycled the whole assembly.

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, yep. I didn't mention them because they are NLA and darn near impossible to find.

 

[rhribar]

Kraig
thank you for reply
I placed a bid on an assembly on Ebay
I have 2 hydros and 2 hydraulic pumps to turn over when cold.
Was looking for inline electric clutch, could not find what I wanted

 

[kide]

Rick A:
Nice job - and glad to hear it's not a trailer queen!! BTW - I hope you've got a brace on that exhaust so that the threads in the block aren't taking all the stress from the weight of that muffler....

KENtuck:
IIRC it was an add-on for the Northern Minnesota owners.. Back in the drag racing dark ages, a hot small block gasser setup was the old Hydramatic with a flywheel/clutch package in front of it - even called it a "Clutch-Hydro"..

 

[stanner]

Rob,
IIRC, the tiller belt required the replacement of the spring with a threaded pulley adjuster. I believe it keeps the belt from whipping around with the spring occilations...

 

[rcrim]

does anybody have any good web sites for tires for my cub and i have a little yard trailer that needs them.

 

[ralmonrode]

Kendall, Thanks for the pointer on the muffler stack. Never even thought about the threads not being able to hold the weight. I will rework the exhaust pipe and add a brace this weekend.

 

[kide]

Rick - you'll want something that basically ties the stack to the engine so that the engine's "rock n' roll" isn't trying to twist the pipe out of the cylinder. Two braces that triangulate would be better than a single brace.....pipe threads have a habit of breaking someplace in the taper because its thinner than the rest of the pipe.

 

[rneubauer]

Scott T,

Thanks for the input. I really should get the tiller manual for reference. I think I have an extra threaded rod from the narrowframe muledrive I can substitute.

 

[rneubauer]

Here is some pictures of my trailer queen tractor.

Ok so its not really a trailer queen, just a 1450 I rescued from the scrapyard. With help from this Forum the following has been done:
1) Rear fluid change with new filter and gasket
2) Engine crade modification with ISO mount replacement using the moog kit
3) Retorqued the head gasket, rebuild carb, installed new oil pan gasket, adjusted valve lash and governor linkage
4) complete 3-pt lift assembly installed
5) Steering wheel removal to correct out of straight position due to adjusting and tightening up all the steering linkage
6) Front Axle c-channel tightening up to remvoe about 1/4" of slop that resulted in alot of fore-aft movement when the wheel was turned.
7) front mule drive mounting and installatin of tiller drive belt.

This forum us great for direct and indirect help (both the cubfaq's and quick answers to questions) Thanks to all involved. I promise more pics once the tiller is installed and I change out the spring to a threaded rod on the mule drive.

 

[kweaver]

If you look at Rick's 100 it only has the one belt tension hole on the mule drive.

Scott's post shows the double adjusting tension bolts.

Just thought I'd let you guys know I cleaned my glasses ...

 

[tstewart]

Thanks for all the input guys... and not being to hard on me lol! I'm off to work on it again... but might have to take a trip to harbor frieghts to get one of those slide hammers.

Randy Crim: I have used this website before http://tiresunlimited.com/default.htm
also you could check http://www.smalltires.com/index.cfm