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Archive through April 03, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
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Kraig McConaughey
Dan B., WELCOME BACK!
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The "Cub Cadet Parts Lookup", see link at the top of the page is a great resource for exploded views and parts listings. Should help you sort out what bolts go where and in general how stuff goes together. Also be sure to check out the "Manuals" section of the forum. There are Service Manuals for both the 123 (1x2-3 Series) and 125 (1x4-5 Series) as well as for hte other series and various attachments and stuff.
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David s yes I do hate that my duel sticks should always get along
 
Marty, Looks good!! Ya just talked me into it and I just picked up a pair of IH weights for 'em as well.
I traded some parts to a guy that found them in a dumpster of all places!!

Now it's off to the sandblaster!

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Ethan,

As you evaluate your 2 1450's, remember that swapping the DUAL hyd. from one to the other is easy. If the DUAL hyd. frame has issues, swap the valve, pedestal, and lines.......


BTW, DUAL = 2 Duel = Fight.......Dave S's joke......
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Yes Steve I picked up on Davids subtle humor.swaping the duel=2,hydro=hydro setup was the original plan but I think at this point I'm going to keep both tractors,Hell why not right ?I want to get though the engine rebuild on Iron Patriot before anything
 
Hang in there Ethan, I have 3 1450's myself, 2 of 'em dual stick
One is my tiller Cub, one is my QA42 Cub, the other is in limbo since I picked it up 2 years ago. Haven't had it running, and the sticks are definitely dueling as they are locked/rusted together in what I hope is not mortal combat!!
 
David S. Those weights will be a nice addition. And a reasonable price. It was great to meet you yesterday.
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Dan B. Welcome back!!!
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David S what is the solution to fused duel sticks the one I picked up has fuse sticks and a locked up valve
 
Ethan, lots of penetrating oil and patience.
Locked up valve may only be frozen rusted linkage and/or tube.

Disconnect the link from the valve to eliminate that possibility and deal w/that issue on it's own if it indeed is the valve.

More than likely the outer handle shaft frozen/rusted inside the inner handle tube. These Cubs do out like to be left out in the elements.

Good luck!
 
PB Blaster and (if all of the other parts are removed) a MAPP gas torch (or hotter).

DuAl hyd. linkage and levers can be fabricated if it is necessary to do so...BTDT.........
 
The pb blaster soak and time method is my tried and true method of freeing up"stuff". But the reason I ask stuff like this is so I don't "efff" anything up I don't like to break components that are irreplaceable or damn near it, Tomorrow night I'm going to pull the Tins off the duel hydros motor and evaluate that engines functionality.I may just pull the head on that one as well, gosh I hope digger has plenty of k321aqs head gaskets in stock LOL
 
There are two national champions tonight...IH Cub Cadets and the Tarheels of UNC at Chapel Hill.

GO HEELS!!!!! (and cubs)

(yes, I'm from the area)

>
 
Wayne - oh no, not sure what to say except "how did they get tar on their heels?"

Ethan - I wouldn't recommend pulling the head at this point. You didn't mention if this engine (duel hydraulics) has compression yet. Assuming it does I'd leave the head for now and begin your diagnostics for starting it. Does it have spark at the plug? Is it getting fuel to the carb and into the intake? I'd rather know if it has any external engine issues before looking for internal engine issues. I know you're going to have to do something about the gas tank but maybe it's good enough to see if the engine will run.

I'm saying the above this since in my view if you can get the engine to run or almost run (like popping off, spurting but not starting, backfiring, etc) you get a much better idea of the problem it might have.

If it runs you can always plan to pull the head later and de-carbon the piston and head, check the valves, install a new gasket, pull the valve cover/breather and adjust the valves, clean the carb and make whatever changes adjustments required, install new points, etc.

If on the other hand, this engine has no compression then you just as well remove the head and see what you find.

Generally I've found that most of the time you only have one problem (external or internal) that caused the engine to stop running. Hopefully it's an external problem that's easier to fix.
 
Harry-after thinking a bit im just going to pull the engine on Iron Patriot(the non duel hydro one) and order an overhaul kit i figure that it's a rebuild now or a rebuilt later I'm going to finish opening up the engine bay on Iron Patriot tonight. I've also decided that the duel hydro set up I'll address at a later date
 
Ethan - I've never heard of ordering a "overhaul kit". I'd also advise against ordering what ever it is until you know more about the engine. Maybe your crankshaft is beyond repair. Maybe everything else is tore up inside as well. Maybe there's a crack in the block you didn't see yet.

Suggest you back up and take this one step at a time. Each time you take a step then figure out what the next step should be.

I think it's fine that you start by figuring out what problems you have with the engine and whether you can get it running (as I stated before). BUT, best I can also tell you're missing a lot of things besides having the engine problems.

I'd suggest once you figure out more with the engine that you begin to put together a list of all likely things you'll require/need for the entire tractor to be made operational again, and then begin to look at the cost. You really need to know "what you've got" before you go ordering a lot of parts.

I almost hate to say this but you might discover you'd be better off finding a 3rd Quite Line unit and using 3 units to make one.

What use do you have in mind for these 2 tractors? Do you have any attachments/implements that work on these tractors? (attachments from the 126 don't fit). These things can be hard to find and costly when you do, and they are not cheap to ship either.
 
Harry I agree with most of what you say,but I'm not throwing parts at this I work in the parts department of an new car dealership and understand the dangers of throwing part against the wall to see what sticks also overhaul kit is a broad term that maybe I miss used I have already evaluated the major components of both tractors and got the go ahead from a trusted friend with 45 years experience of small engine repair plus a close friend of mine is an independent cub cadet dealer....also with many year of experience in the biz as well so I don't think that I'm approaching this in a slapdash manor.ok having said all that I've pulled out motor tonight and I'll put it on the stand Thursday night I've already pulled the head as I stated before and inspected the cylinder wall it appears to be very smooth,I'll inspect the bottom end and have my aforementioned buddy's check the crank out.seems to me that what's the point of going any farther with this if the motors not working first
 
Harry-sorry if that last post comes off as defensive,I forgot to touch on your last question.I have absolutely no plans for these tractors other than plowing with the free wide frame plow I was given and having fun and sense of satisfaction of completing these latest additions to my hobby.
 
Kraig M (Oh Great Keeper of the Photos),

I know I have seen the instructions for installing an IH Helper Lift Spring kit for a Narrow frame here on the forum in the past but now I can't find it. I checked the manuals section but without success. Can you please post it here again on the main forum or point me in the right direction? Thanks.
 
Ethan - no problem on your post. I didn't know you had a couple friends in the business and I didn't know you had already evaluated the rest of the tractors. I guess I didn't know what I didn't know. Have fun as you're going thru things and keep us informed.
 

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