Archive through April 02, 2016

[kshultz]

I was going to roll the yard today and maybe mow some spots, but it's been snowing for an hour now.

 

[kshultz]

Marlin,
I would say yes. You should be able to use the same s/g on each machine. Same with the pulleys.
You might want to wait until someone else chimes in though to be on the safe side.

 

[danderson]

The O and the 102 list different part numbers for the SG and the pulley. Don't know what the differences are. Both are 15 amp CCW rotation.

 

[mgwin]

Carson,

I did not know about the O wheels. I haven't restored mine yet, so I am still learning on them.
Electrical cleaner works good on removing grease/oil. Several companies make this stuff. CRC NT Precision Cleaner is what we currently use at work.
Be careful, it will take the oil out of your skin too. It burns nicely when you get it in your eyes. No eye damage that I could tell, just burns like crazy. Maybe this will help.

 

[mgwin]

Not sure about the S/G, but the pulleys are somewhat different. The O pulley is more solid and not as thick. The pulley on my 70 has "flanges", the center is thinner, and the pulley is wider. Both appear to have the same bore size though.
Also, you can tell the ends on the S/G are made a little different too.

The O,

The 70,

 

[kshultz]

I think the S/G will work on both. I think the only problem would be the

lol

 

[mhomrighausen]

Thanks guys. I may just go ahead and fix the Original's starter/generator. That way I will be keeping it correct.

 

[chaines]

Now have several different things to try on the brake band.

Have sprayed it with some engine de=greaser and some of the oil came off. Will try lacquer thinner next.

Thanks for the ideas.

 

[dschwandt]

Carson, try brake parts cleaner in a spray can. Or in a pinch, starting fluid. That's what I always use to clean up brake drums on my big rig when an axle seal would go south.

Jst be careful w/the starting fluid is all, be sure and do it outside.

Marlin, The differences in the pulley dia. has something to do with whether or the engine in question has ACR or not, according to the parts book I have.

 

[kconway]

Short of buying a new gas tank for a 104, what have any of you done for a leaking tank?

 

[fcurrier]

I've been known to tighten the cap.

 

[kconway]

Ha! Ha! That didn't help!

 

[fcurrier]

OK, I've used JB Weld. A lot depends on where it's leaking. I bought one from Florida awhile back and it was riddled with pinholes - totally not repairable.

 

[mgonitzke]

JB (can't) weld will eventually become not resistant to gas. I've had several tanks 'fixed' with that stuff I have had to resolder. It is not a good solution. Where is it leaking?

 

[rvanmersbergen]

Kevin, try a tank liner, may need 2 applications, read and follow the directions closley, and never use fuels with ethanol

 

[sblunier]

Earl,

You should get 27-29V AC across the outside terminals on a AQS VR, and 13.5-14.5V DC center terminal to chassis ground. (1/2 AC voltage = DC charging voltage, as the rectifier is only "flipping" one half of the AC sine wave).

 

[kconway]

Matt, I believe it's leaking around the outlet. I put the sediment bowl on and put a little bit of gas in it and let it set overnight. The bottom of the tank around the outlet was wet with gas this morning.

 

[jpatchett]

Kevin C.

I have used this on a gas tank that was leaking. This is not a permanent solution but lasts longer than JB weld. You need to prep the surface almost as much as you would if you were going to solder. Wire brush, no oil, grease, gas residue etc.

 

[nbodin]

Kevin- If I have a leaky tank I take it to my local radiator shop. He pressure tests,finds leak, solders it and good to go. If tank is crusty inside he will line it for me too. 20 bucks well spent.

 

[mgonitzke]

I will second Nate's suggestion. A leaky outlet can be resoldered. That is the best fix. Tank sealants don't last either, and when they go bad, they are not fun to remove.