Another 982 refurbish

[mmasheris]

I have the 48" tiller om my 982 and you need 100 pounds up front to hold the front down.

 

[jstorma]

Michael,

There is a weight kit correct?

Is your 48" a cub cadet or the befco? Any pictures?

 

[jstorma]

It's been quite a few years since I did any work on the 982. Last few years have been pretty busy with other projects.


Over the past few years I've been assembling parts when I could.

I added decals to the tunnel cover.

Put decals on the hood, the rubber edging, and installed the hinge bar. Still need to install the hood ornament.

Installed a new seat on the seat springs and installed the safety switch bracket and the caution decal. Installed the seat springs to the cover. Still need to install the seat safety switch spring and bumpers.

Cleaned and flushed the gas tank with a garden hose and after it dried out installed a new grommet and fuel shut off valve, and a new gas cap.

Next installed the gas tank and mounting brackets to the fire wall; installed new a new grommet in the fire wall for the fuel line, and finally new weather stripping around the fire wall.

Grill housing received new headlights in the upper panel along with he original mounting hardware. Installed the IH symbol.

Hopefully I can do more this summer.

 

[jstorma]

This last week the rear PTO belts were changed to a pair of Gates Hi-power II belts because I now have a tiller and the old belts were old and wore.

The draw bar support plate, cam sway limiters, lower links, adjustment tubes, and upper bail were all assembled, installed and greased. The lower link pins were installed backwards inside to out thru the lower link supports with hair pins. Once the fenders are installed, I might choose to install clevis pins and hair pins in the rock shaft arms so I can easily remove them due to limited storage space in my garage allowing me to get closer to other objects.

Finally for the day, the factory clamps used for the hydraulic hoses were installed over the hoses and clamped down using 1/4" fasteners. I had sand blasted, painted them silver, and dipped them in vinyl a few years ago.

 

[jchamberlin]

Good God, that's pretty, Jim. If you're not a professional restorer, you sure impersonate one well.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jim, progress!

Looking great!

 

[sblunier]

Jim,

Nice progress!!! Looks great!!!

You may want to rotate your headlamps until the glass reflector pattern is horizontal, trapezoid headlamps throw their best light pattern when oriented horizontally.

Keep up the good work and have fun horsing that tiller around.......they are HEAVY!!!

 

[jstorma]

Thanks guys for the kind words.

I'd say I impersonate a good restorer. Definitely not a professional. Besides I'm sure there are a lot of things that are not painted or done to factory specifications.

Steve, I'm interested to know how to rotate the headlight bulbs? It sounds like a dumb questions but there doesn't seem to be an easy way unless there is some modification or to purchase different bulbs without the square stop? Feel free to post a picture in this thread of what you did.

A couple of weeks ago; finally got the re-power engine. 23Hp Vanguard kit. I had a lot of issues with this kit and had to rework everything except for the rely switch. Had to install and remove the engine five time. Once everything was squared away, this is basically the install:

Mounted the drive shaft plate to the engine drive shaft hub. Installed the supplied throttle handle and cable to the dash with the factory screws and nylon lock nuts. Installed the original choke cable as well.

Put the engine on the tractor mount plate and put the drive plate carriage bolts through the holes in the rubber joints. Installed washers and center lock nuts on the drive plate bolts holding the rubber joints in place. Took out the two screws holding the plastic shield (above the flywheel screen ) in place and ran the wire harness for the voltage regulator and coil through a pair of clips. Changed the end for the coil hook up to a covered spade terminal just for preference. Ran the gas line the same way through a different pair of clips. Reinstalled the shield and screws with the clips.

 

[jstertz]

Jim-Its a bummer that you had so many challenges getting that kit to work as it should. However, it looks really nice in there! Great job so far!

 

[jstorma]

That many post already!

 

[jstorma]

Next installed the pre-assembled gas tank and heat deflector by slipping the bottom portion thru the bolts that were installed toward the bottom of the frame and have left loose. Then I installed the upper bolts with lock washers and flat washers. The gas line was threaded thru the rubber grommet thru the heat defector and connected to the fuel shut off valve with a hose clamp. I had to buy additional fuel line. It's not shown, but I did file the coating away from the left side nut which is welded into the frame. Used a star washer on both sides of the ground eyelet from the wire harness and pinched it between the nut and heat shield.

Ran the throttle and choke cable thru the slotted hole on the left side of the heat deflector. Decided not to cut the choke cable and ran it thru a lower existing hole in the heat deflector so as to take up most of the unneeded slack. Hooked the choke wire to the choke plate on the engine and clamped it down. Checked what the throttle wire will do by moving the handle and seeing which way the wire will move during movement. Looked at the throttle hook up plate on the engine and seen which hole it goes in. Made sure the throttle handle on the dash was in the idle position, took slack out of engine spring by rotating the pivot until it was just going to pull the governor arm. Marked and cut the shielding on the throttle cable with a hacksaw and used two pliers to twist and break the winding. Cut and bent the wire to length and hooked up the wire to the throttle plate and tightened down the clamp.

Didn't bolt down the engine plate to the tractor plate but left the bolts in so when the engine was running it would vibrate and find it's own alignment for the drive shaft. Filled the crank case with full synthetic 10W-30 Valvoline oil. Put gas in the tank and opened the valve under the tank. Hooked up the positive and negative terminals on the battery. The tractor rear was jacked up sitting on jack stands. Pulled the choke, set throttle lever just enough to open the throttle plate, put the key in, turn the ignition to start and waited 15 seconds for the fuel pump to pump the gas to the carburetor and then it started! Let it warm up and find it's alignment. Shut ignition off and continued to put loctite on the 4 mounting bolts and tighten the engine down.

Checked high speed RPM and idle. The engine idles about 1700 RPM. Looking thru the Vanguard manual it should idle 1440 RPM. I tried adjusting the idle screw with no luck as the screw moved away from the throttle plate linkage. Moving the small plate and linkage to the screw resulted in very rough idle and dipped the RPM's way down. Decided to leave the low RPM alone since it runs great without shaking or vibrating at that speed.

Continued to adjust the hydrostatic drive per the manual, running the tractor on jack stands and moved the plate into position by using a small piece of wood. Then turning the engine off and tightening down the two bolts. Did the fine adjustment on the rod after starting the engine by listening for the hydrostatic pump to stop wining. Next, checked to make sure the clutch pedal worked and returned the drive to neutral. Next checked full range of movement with the dash handle both forward and reverse. Shut engine off and used a similar tool in the manual to check the friction disc setting and adjusted accordingly. Started engine and double checked the neutral position. Worked the hydraulic lift levers a few times to purge air from the system and turned the power steering to both extremes a few times to help purge air out of that system. Shut engine off. Removed jack stands, checked hydraulic fluid in transmission and topped it off with Hytran.

NOTES: Ended up removing the old short cable from my old handle. Removed new cable from new handle. Installed new cable on old handle and installed old handle in tractor due to the new handle not being able to stay at full throttle. (kept sliding down). This resulted in installing the new cable end in the position shown on engine. New supplied handle would have been the opposite hole on other side of pivot point. It's better to use the old handle. Left tractor wire harness wires same length if wanting to install original engine. Left choke cable length for same reason. Moved transmission linkage near frame to keep it away from fan. Cut off choke handle; catching on valve cover and air cleaner cover not allowing full degree of choke plate.

 

[eford]

Oh my! Wow such great work and description! Thank you Jim!

 

[jstorma]

Here are some pictures of the engine installed in the tractor along with my throttle hook up and choke handle cut off.

There are two screws that hold a plastic over between the "V" I used those in conjunction with some loop clamps to run the fuel line and wire harness to the right side of the engine.

Had to have the provided PTO plate reworked since the holes did not line up with the magnetic clutch holes. Works great now. Also installed the covers for the front ports. A stainless cotter pin was used. I think this is the correct way the factor attached them to the frame.

 

[jstorma]

Was able to get a newer style cub cadet hour meter. Was hoping to find a good working original that worked but no luck. The hook up is a little different. I used a thin screw driver and removed the negative wire from the wire harness and clipped the wires to the hour meter as shown with some die-electric grease. Kept the plastic connector on the positive side to help aid against shorts. The meter has a positive and negative terminal distinctly called out.

Next I installed the tunnel cover and used four new stainless self tapping screws to bolt it down.

Installed the serial number back on the frame with the original screw nails. Was a little worried they were going to be loose but they are nice and tight.

Loosed the four bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. The battery box is slotted for fender adjustment. The tail lights were installed in the back of the fender. The fender was carefully installed over the top of battery box and tunnel cover. One of the seat bracket pivot pieces were installed with the bolts left loose. The pre-assembled seat and seat pan was assembled to the installed pivot bracket along with the other pivot bracket with the bolts. With the seat flip up, the other two bolts towards the back were installed. All bolts have washers and lock washers. The six bolts that hold down the fender around the battery box were tightened down once it was verified the holes where the foot rest are would line up. Waiting for a pair of foot threads to show up so the fender can completely be installed. Tightened down the four bolts holding the battery box to the frame. Also installed the small gear shift cover with a bolt. Note that there are replacement seat bumpers that I made and glued to the bottom of the seat pan so it looks all factory. Put the seat down and adjusted it forward to back for my liking and tightened down the four bolts that hold the springs to the seat pan.

The safety switch was not installed to the fender. There is a brand new one floating around here but I can't seem to locate it at this time. It's going to be awkward to install now since the 3 point is in the way. Found this out while I was hooking the electrical harness to the tail lights.

Was going to install the battery strap but it seems too short. Checked the parts look up to double check the part number. Also checked and it's the same strap used for the 782, 682, and 582. Not sure why it does not fit. Hooks in the frame on the one side and only makes it to the top of the other side of the battery.

My cub dealer said it's the correct one and the correct length. Might try and find a strap at the store and change out the hooks.


At this point I had an itch to take it out for a spin. So I did and it was awesome! Power steering and hydrostatic drive preformed beautifully. Used a jumper wire for the seat safety switch.

 

[jwiggins]

WOW! What an Awesome Project,,, I will Definitely second Earl's "Excellent Work" and Lots of good info!!!
Truly Amazing, the patience and attention to detail,,,
Can't wait 2 see finished product,,,

Good Job,

Thanks for taking the time to document progress, upload pics, and share!!!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jim S. Looking fantastic!!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jim S., WOW!

 

[mgonitzke]

Looks great! I'd put some anti-seize on the steering shaft, threads, nut, etc. though.

 

[sblunier]

Jim,

Great work!!!

To get the correct pattern out of your headlights, put the square in the corner, not in the notch.

Wiring pins should be horizontal to throw a correct trapezoid light pattern.

(I just had to replace one in my 2072 last night

)

 

[jstertz]

Great job Jim--you're getting close now. I've been there several times and it is a good feeling. You have waited patiently and worked diligently on this tractor and it shows--congrats!