About to bring home a 149

[Jacob Michael]

So, about 4 weeks ago, the engine on my 782 blew up. A snapped left connecting rod. I didn't have many options to replace the engine, and I didn't want the tractor to turn into a money pit, so I did some searching on Marketplace for a "new" tractor. I eventually found a nice looking Cub 149 about 15 miles from where I live. My dad and I went to meet the seller in a church parking lot last night. He said the carburetor needed a good cleaning, but otherwise the machine was in good mechanical shape. It was missing both taillight covers, the headlights weren't wired in, and the air filter cover was painted red for some reason. That k321 seemed REALLY eager to go. It barely needed to turn over before it started, and the engine just wanted to take off when you moved the throttle up. I got the price down to $400( the asking price had been $500), and I'm hoping we can go to the guy's house to pick it up tomorrow, if the schedule doesn't fill up before then. The 48" mower deck with it was SOLID. there was fresh paint on it, and the blades were in decent shape. The plan is that once the 149 comes home, I'll switch over the seat, ago tires, and rear lift from my 782. Then, I'm going to list the 782 at $500 for parts and see what happens (I know 500 dollars is a lot for a parts tractor. I can lower the price but it can never go up). So, did I buy a lemon? Are there any common problems with wide frame tractors that I need to know about?
I guess I'll have to change my profile pic soon. Thanks, Jacob.

 

[mgonitzke]

Governor is either out of adjustment or broken if the engine runs away like that. If it is the latter, full engine teardown required. That is nearly the last thing to come out of the engine. You will be in over $100 in parts for a new OEM governor gear and a gasket set at a minimum if you have to do that repair.

782 3-point lift bar is different than the WF version. Unless the 782 is in really nice original condition, more than about $250 is wishful thinking with a blown engine.

If I were you, I'd pass on the 149 and keep the 782, and find a rough looking but running 2000 series tractor to use as an engine donor. The newer V-twins fit without a ton of trouble, and unless you are in an area of the country where these aren't common, you can find one for $250 or less. If you have patience you can put together an engine swap for the 782 for less than you will have in the 149 buying and fixing it.

 

[Jacob Michael]

Thanks for the insight, Mgonitzke. Hopefully if the issue is the governor, its just out of adjustment like you said. I wouldn't necessarily say the engine was running away, but it did seem like it ran strong. The 782 isn't in very good original condition. There had been a running yellow 782 with a series II in Bath (I live near Grand Rapids), but I didn't jump on it in time. My idea was to list it for parts or restoration and wait for a lower offer. I was also planning on listing the price high, because our can always lower the price, and people get mad when you raise it. Some thing I forgot to mention is that there are 2 parts k321's in my area, both for less than $100. One of them is listed for $50 and has the mechanical pto on it, but with no piston or connecting rod. I could buy that engine, cannibalise some parts off it, then sell the pto clutch and make a profit.

Anybody in the Grand Rapids area want to buy a used 782 with a 38c mower deck?

 

[jim roos]

on your engine over speeding start simple things first is the spring on governor connected possibly broken wrong hole another common problem fuel line touch linkage making it hang up

 

[Jacob Michael]

So, the 149 is home, and my brother and I seem to have the governor issue fixed. I did a static governor adjustment and we added a lightweight return spring on the governor arm. There really isn't anything major that's wrong with the tractor, but it has lots of little quirks. The speed control handle is loose, and from reading other threads I found out about a nylon bushing that had worn away. I couldn't find it for sale ANYWHERE, except ccspecialties but he's charging $10 to ship it to me. So, I tried cutting out a replacement from the lid to a cottage cheese container, but I couldn't get it to fit into that little clamp. I'm aware there are two styles of friction adjustment, mine is the older style.

 

[Jacob Michael]

By the way, the S/N is ~444,000, a 1972 model. The tractor is missing the white shield over the driveshaft, which would hold the hour meter on a 169. Does anyone have a pattern for it somewhere? My dad has a bunch of sheet metal equipment so I can make it myself.

 

[dschwandt]

Should not be hard to find at a GT swap meet.

BTW, there are two of them, right and left side.

 

[dschwandt]

So, the 149 is home, and my brother and I seem to have the governor issue fixed. I did a static governor adjustment and we added a lightweight return spring on the governor arm. There really isn't anything major that's wrong with the tractor, but it has lots of little quirks. The speed control handle is loose, and from reading other threads I found out about a nylon bushing that had worn away. I couldn't find it for sale ANYWHERE, except ccspecialties but he's charging $10 to ship it to me. So, I tried cutting out a replacement from the lid to a cottage cheese container, but I couldn't get it to fit into that little clamp. I'm aware there are two styles of friction adjustment, mine is the older style.

Thats about what it costs to ship ANYTHING anywhere these days,
Welcome to reality!

 

[mgonitzke]

The speed control handle is loose, and from reading other threads I found out about a nylon bushing that had worn away. I couldn't find it for sale ANYWHERE, except ccspecialties but he's charging $10 to ship it to me. So, I tried cutting out a replacement from the lid to a cottage cheese container, but I couldn't get it to fit into that little clamp. I'm aware there are two styles of friction adjustment, mine is the older style.

It costs ~$6 just in postage to mail a very small item in the lower 48 these days. The smallest flat-rate box is like $12 now. If I'm not mistaken, Charlie is still charging a flat $10 shipping fee regardless of how many things you buy. That $10 amount has not changed in 15? 20? years.

It costs money to ship things. Always has. Instead of complaining about that, you should be ecstatic you can still get a new part like this for a 50+ year old garden tractor whose original manufacturer no longer exists.

 

[jdrong]

I don't like the cost of shipping either and I have to try to remind myself sometimes the cost of time and or fuel trying to make or find a reasonable replacement.

 

[Jacob Michael]

I'm not complaining about the shipping, I'm glad he can make a living running such a specialized shop. I do think there must be another way of getting the part, say Case IH dealer.
I do need the 782 to leave though. My mom has been nagging me about that since october.

 

[dschwandt]

"

I'm not complaining about the shipping, I'm glad he can make a living running such a specialized shop. I do think there must be another way of getting the part, say Case IH dealer.

And you think they are gonna cut you some slack??
Guess again!!~

 

[dschwandt]

So, the 149 is home, and my brother and I seem to have the governor issue fixed. I did a static governor adjustment and we added a lightweight return spring on the governor arm. There really isn't anything major that's wrong with the tractor, but it has lots of little quirks. The speed control handle is loose, and from reading other threads I found out about a nylon bushing that had worn away. I couldn't find it for sale ANYWHERE, except ccspecialties but he's charging $10 to ship it to me. So, I tried cutting out a replacement from the lid to a cottage cheese container, but I couldn't get it to fit into that little clamp. I'm aware there are two styles of friction adjustment, mine is the older style.

I found them available in at least 4 places in a matter of minutes.
Part # IH-680521-r1
But you are still not going to like the price.
Find a later model parts tractor and switch yours over to that style.
Any 109, 129 or 149 or 169 (heaven forbid) will work as long as it is above the ser# cutoff of #425999
Better double check your serial # as #444000 is way above the mid model cutoff of 425999 and should have the later style friction disc #723-3013 which, BTW, has been superseded to 923-3013, as have many of the 723 prefix numbers.
Nothing more than a piece of disc brake friction material by the looks of it.