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82 Series Engine Replacements

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Thanks to all that helped with my wiring issues on my 682 cub with 18 magnum swap. I went with the relay and it worked beautifully. Now all i have to do is tackle my non charging issue and maybe a fuel issue. The charging issue was addmittidly self inflicted. I had loose magnets on the flyeheel and didnt know they needed to be oriented with opposing poles i now have that straigtened out and hope to get theflywheel back on today to see if it helped. If not i guess it would be a bad stator? I have the one from the kt17 that was original to my 682 anyone know if they interchange? As far as the fuel issue goes the tractor will go for a few minutes under throttle while driving then loose power and die what would you all say that is? I am using the intake and carb off the 17.
 
Chad, I'm glad you got your magnets sorted out, I think you should be OK. The stator should have continuity and should not short to ground. I ran a Magnum for a year with what appeared to be a weak charging circuit --turned out ALL the magnets were loose!

I think that if the engine is working at all, the carb is likely to be OK. Does the motor restart? If you don't have to wait too long to restart it, I would I would suspect a problem with the fuel supply --either filter or fuel pump. Make sure that gasoline isn't leaking into the crank case --motors get ruined that way.

If you have to wait a long time before restarting, the problem could be a sticking valve. It is also conceivable that the magneto is either failing or that something is happening with the air gap to the flywheel.

Next time the engine dies, try to determine whether it lacks fuel, spark, or compression and proceed from there.

Tell us what you find.
 
It starts right back up, sometimes though needing the choke to do so. As far as i can tell it doesnt even have a fuel filter unless it is somehow built into the shutoff on the underside of the tank or the fuel pump? Ill investigate fuel system tomorrow time permitting. Today i pulled the motor back off to reinstall the flywheel and put the blower housing back on. When i get the fuel bug worked out ill clean'er up and post some pics i cant wait to show it off. Greatfull for the help
 
Chad --I would pull the rubber grommet out of the bottom of the fuel tank and make sure the screen is still clear on the fuel pickup and that the whole piece offers a clear path for the fuel. The one on my 782 was rusted to point that nothing could pass when I first acquired it.

There should be a filter in line, if not, I would install one.

Finally, I would disconnect the fuel line at the carb and make sure the pump is working well.

Good luck today.
smile.gif
 
After fixing the restrictions in the fuel shut off it led to the discovery of a bad float and a nasty fuel pump. Filled the motor up with gas. Nothing was hurt though, tried pushing all the gas out with a little fresh oil. Is there a better way to insure i have all the gas out? Maybe a couple frequent oil changes? Going to pick up a new pump and float monday at the local napa.
 
Leave the drain plug out and the fill cap off, and leave it that way for a few days. That's what I've always done in that situation.
 
Even though its been one problem leading to another, im having a great time workin on my 682. I can definetly see where you all get you passion for these machines!
 
New fuel pump $42. Fresh hytran, filter, and gasket $65. Being able to mow today with my 682 with all the help you guys offered up......priceless.
 
If u could please let me know how u wires in that magnum motor I have been fighting a m18 for week now tried to put in relay as my buddy told me with yellow wire that went to coil and other one to regulator wire back to switch please help
 
OK so I connected the wire from mag to pin thirty on new relay and it cranks but how can u test the mag for spark I don't think it's working I am getting no spark
 
Unhook everything from the mag and it will start (you will have to ground it to kill it, or choke it to flood it out).

The relay grounds the mag to kill the engine. If in your testing you have put voltage onto the kill wire of the mag, you may have toasted the mag......never power the mag kill wire......
 
I unhooked wires to regulator and kill wire and still no spark I checked ohms through the two wires and got like 14k I think I might have juiced it when testing or something what's next replace it ?
 

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