782 restoration homework

[mpatterson]

Brian, Marlin,
Thank you for the info! Appreciate it.

Just curious, at what point do you say the knuckle is worn out? How much will this wear effect the proper workings of the hydro unit?

These ball joints can handle a fair bit of stress I am sure, these do not have slop to them, but the rubber "seal" is missing off them on the linkage going to the hydro unit, should they be changed at the same time?

 

[dtanner]

Mike Patterson

That is a lot of rust in your first picture. That has to affect how it designed to work. I drilled the stud out and welded in a grade 8 bolt . took a lot of slop out of the whole system. I would repair that . just another item for your list.

 

[dcalkins]

Mike,on photo @12:54 you show the hydo and hydro spring ,that needs some welding .if you go to FAQ @ number 14 i shows the repair of this plate .i went through this repair ,and it made the hydro work as it should ,David

 

[mpatterson]

That is certainly on the list of things to do David! Should be a lot easier to do now that the rearend is out away from the frame, easier to work around and clamp.

Went to visit the local Cub dealer yesterday for some parts. Had EVERYTHING I needed IN STOCK! This is the guy who collects Cubs as well, he knows his stuff. Pleasure talking to him, nicest, laid back man you'd ever want to sit and talk about Cubs with. All we needed was a cold drink and a shade tree to sit under while chatting.

Picked up a used tie rod end from him to replace mine that I bent DUH! Only charged me $10.00, so I was pleased, it is in great shape other than its black and not red. Looks like a trip to get some paint from IH store in the near future.

Its a decent temperature outside today, so plan is to go work in the garage for at least part of the day. I have a bunch of water to clean up off the floor first thanks to our January thaw happening around here in the past day or two. Always fun to have to CLEAN UP before you can work!
Think I will tackle the steering wheel removal today in order to replace the cracked & broken out dash with the one off my parts tractor. Hopefuly that goes well. Will fill up the rear end with oil and get it all ready. Will get to welding the plate maybe this week. I ordered my front tires this past week with the chains for the rear and tubes all around. Pretty sure I will be loading all four tires on this tractor for weight reasons. I want to make sure I get as much traction out of this thing as possible. We get a lot of crap weather here in winter and if I throw a blade on it ever, I want to have the traction to push stuff on ice and across the lawn. I don't have a paved drive, so only place I have to be careful with the chains is on the interlocking stone going to the front door. If I scratch that up, the wife would do things to me that only Stephen King writes about!

Brian,
Doubt I will be adding an oil filter to it. As long as things work out well with the engine the way it sits now, I will run it. Would rather spend the money on other things that need fixing. Some day I'd like to throw a diesel in either this tractor or the 982, so $$$ would be better spent on that if the chance ever arose of buying one.

 

[mpatterson]

After cleaning up some water inside the garage this morning, I was able to so some work on the 782. Cleaned off the bench too, looked like a bomb went off on top of it. Garage needs a MAJOR cleaing after this tractor is back together and going.

Had a few issues with the hydralic filter removal right off the get go, broke my wrench in two pulling on it. Great, another tool added to the list that I need to buy for the garage. Went and borrowed the Old Man's old chain wrench, boy that sucker really takes hold of a filter and shows it who's boss.

As you can see, the chain wrench won this round!

Re-installed the rear cover plate on and filled up the rear end with new Hytran from our local IH Dealer. $38.90 + tax for a 10 litre jug of Hytran here. They fill it from their bulk supply in the back, so when I want more I can just bring back the same jug and I won't get charged the $3.95 for a new jug. Not sure what you guys have to pay for Hytran, likely cheaper I am sure since most of you are in the USA. I bought new bolts for the rear cover plate too, the PO had a few square headed ones in there that looked horrible and I have 3 different lengths in the cover too, made them all the same now.

Figured I might as well get the dash changed while there isn't much attached to the frame and the fuel tank was out waiting for a cleaning too. Made myself a steering wheel puller jig like many of you's have done in the past. Mine certainly isn't going to wind any awards for the snaziest jig, but it did work in the end! I tried the two finger and three finger wheel pullers I had borrowed from the Old Man, they were only going to destroy the plastic. I went to town to buy just the base piece and the screw for a steering wheel puller set, no go, only sell it as a set. Come to find out when I get home with it, the darn thing is still too small to fit over the steering wheel hub - had no room to slid the threaded rod into it. Back to the drawing board for this jig. I ended up using the 3/8" threaded rod with a piece of 1/2" pipe cut as a spacer to stop the flat stock from bending down when I applied pressure to the centre screw on the puller. I still ended up bending the flat stock some. The first time I tried it, I only had 3/4" hardwood flooring scraps - cracked them in two fairly easily. So I went to the shop to find something a little more beefier. I drilled a 2-1/4" hole in the middle of the block of red oak with a hole saw first, then ripped it in two and bolted it together. After tring a couple times to get it positioned square on the steering wheel, it ended up working. Damn near crapped myself when it did finally let go though! Damn thing! I turned around to get something off the bench and the steering wheel finally "popped", swore I cracked the steering wheel, when it let go the frame rattled so hard it threw a few wrenches on the floor I had sitting on it. I sure hope the one on the parts tractor isn't any worst to take off? I blasted the centre with PB Blaster this morning first thing. I filled the center of the steering wheel up with it to let it "soak". Not sure if it helped or not?

Do you guys put anything on the splines before you put the steering wheel back on? Was thinking some kind of lythium grease or that never seize copper past that they use on bolts sometimes??

 

[mpatterson]

Ended up winning the battle with the steering wheel in the end!

Brian,
Just curious, how did you remove your front seal or did it actually just blow it right out that you could pop it out with a screwdriver? I read somewhere that a guy screwed a sheet metal screw into the seal and pryed on it to get the seal to pop out? Wouldn't you have to worry about damaging the bearing behind it, how could you even get enough bite with the screw into the seal?

 

[klindstedt]

I'm not Brian, but I'll chime in here...

I've removed oil seals by drilling a small hole and driving a sheet metal screw into the seal, grab screw with pliers and pull seal out. It works ok, but after having the drill bit walk and scratch up the shaft, I realized it was time to buy the right tool. They sell a shaft-type seal puller that works great. Mine is a Lisle #58430. No more worries of damaging the shaft.

 

[mpatterson]

Kevin,
Thanks for the info, might look into seeing what one of those seal pullers cost around here.

Got the steering wheel off the parts tractor tonight and swapped out the dashes as well as the PTO switch. The one on the parts tractor was in nicer shape and the slide to the handle actually slid and wasn't covered in rust. Almost put the steering wheel back on then stood there and thought for a minute - re-install front axle with wheels to know if the steering wheel is STRAIGHT!!
So will wait to install steering wheel until I get the tie rod ends installed and front axle back on. Picking up the tires for the front tomorrow or Saturday. Hopefully they won't be too hard to install and fill with washer fluid. Ordered chains for it too with tubes for the rear tires. Also switched out the throttle assembly too, the old one was sticking more than I was willing to put up with. I am liking this idea of a parts tractor!
Hope to get some jobs finished up on it this weekend and get the parts tractor out of the garage, can hardly walk around in there so much stuff crammed in there!

 

[mpatterson]

Was able to do some more work on the 782 this past Sunday and tonight. I took the rear end to a buddy who does welding to fix the slop in the plate that contains the springs. He tig welded a piece of flat stock to the left side where it was worn. I think it turned out pretty good. Should hold out I think. Better than my popcorn way of welding would have been!

I only had to file the one inside corner to allow the spring to slide in nice and snug and I was away to the races. Lost about a quart of new hytran in the bed of my truck there and back to his place.

It wasn't leaking when I set it into the box and I figured with the dog on cold weather, it wasn't going to flow too good - WRONG! Another mess to clean up in the next week or so.

I put the rear end back into the frame tonight with very few issues. Biggest part was getting things squared up and into the frame to get the 6 bolts into where they were supposed to go. I replaced all but one of the tie rod ends on the tractor when I had things appart. I figured it was the time to do it when things were easy to get at. The one on the rod coming from the steering box was original I think, still had the castle nut and cotter pin in it - the rest had lock nuts on them. Most of the rubbers on them were either missing or so dry and cracked, they were not doing too much protecting from dust and dirt!
Installed the steering wheel tonight after I put the front axle back on. I had put the new dash plastic on the other day. Swapped out the pto switch from the parts tractor, installed new key switch and throttle as well. I greased the splined shaft on the steering wheel in hopes if I have to remove it again, it will come off easier? I hope!

My order showed up on Saturday at work thanks to one of the drivers at work. Once my bearings arrive for the front wheels, these are going to be installed!

 

[mpatterson]

I also got my chains in for the rear tires and tubes for all around.

Getting a little cramped in the garage, can't wait to get some things finished and get some organizing done!

 

[mpatterson]

Also found this when I was replacing the dash, not sure if this was just for the wiring harnes, or the tractor?

 

[dtanner]

Mike P

Where did you get those tri ribs and do they have a good ply rating ? I have been looking for a set for my 129 loader and have not been able to find anyone local that can find a listing. Thanks Don T (firestone )

 

[mpatterson]

Don T,

I can't remember the ply rating on them off the top of my head, I will check for you when I go home today. Bought them at Tirecraft in Clinton, ONT. (519) 482-3752. They are affiliated with Miller Tire out of Ohio. That's where I bought my chains too. Had everything in stock except the chains. He had to order them in with his stock order. Only took a week to get them. I also priced out 23' Ags with him, decent price (have written down at home) and he STOCKED THEM!!!

Great guys to deal with too!

 

[dtanner]

Mike

Is see on your PO tag where it says they are 4 ply. I called to see what shipping would be and I will wait for there email.

I looked at your trunion repair and want to add that I put washers over the end caps between the spring and the caps. I find I like the way the hydro reacts with more tension on the springs . This works real nice if your springs are old and lost some tension. You might want to give that a try. Great job ! I can see your having a great time .

 

[mpatterson]

Don T,
I replaced both springs and the end caps for them, it is all new in there so will give it a try without the washers like you suggested for now. If I find it sloppy or not reacting right, will try out the washers.

Loaded up on washer fluid last night for the tires. Bought those big 12 or 16 litre jugs they sell at Canadian Tire (much larger than the regular 4 litre sized ones) $8.95/each. Picked up 4 of them, that should be a good start for filling the tires. Picked up a little rotary pump for on a drill, $19.00 for it. Just now debating on if I break down the rear tires to put in tubes or try it without tubes and just load them on the bare rims? Any thoughts? Only reason I am questioning it is the tires look original on the rear, wonder how brittle they will be or the risk in damaging them trying to dismount just the one side to get the tube inside them?

Stood the tri-ribs up over top of the stub on the front axle without the rims on them, they look pretty cool, think I am going to like the looks of them on this tractor!

 

[mpatterson]

Got a little more work done today in the garage. New tri-ribs are now mounted, tubs installed and washer fluid loaded into them. Used about 2.5 to 3 litres of fluid in each tire (give or take, didn't measure it exactly). Forgot to take a picture of the set up I did for loading the tires, will try to remember that when I load the rear tires. The tires went on ok, helped by warming them up next to the propane heater first. Took away some of the stiffness in them.

 

[mpatterson]

Tightened up the steering box as well as drove out one of the bushings in the front axle. Couldn't get it to take grease at all. Figured it was the fitting at first, but after driving out the bushing, yikes! It was not rusted yet, but there was a fair bit of rusty colour to the grease and it was sticky, don't think it had taken grease in a long time. Took some emery cloth and cleaned/shinned it up good and it takes grease now!

Bolted the battery box/rear fender support on then it was quiting time. Daughter came home for supper with us tonight, so it was well worth stopping for the day.

Also changed the bearing on the front rims before installing on tractor. I ordered these direct from IH. Not cheap, but they are nice bearings, should last for about as long as I own the tractor I figure. The ones I took out I would say were originial ones. The old ones were made in Worchester, MA stamped right on the side of bearing. They didn't owe me anything I figure, they had done their job in life.

new

old with new box and part number

 

[jgoodine]

Mike looking good, tks for posting lots of pics, it's great seeing the 782 coming back to life

 

[mpatterson]

Thanks Joel, its been a fair bit of work, but should be worth it in the long run!

I now have the tires loaded with washer fluid, weights mounted on inside of rims on the rear and chains installed. This was my set up for filling it, cheap pump from Canadian Tire for the drill and some fuel line stuck onto the valve and taped into garden hose.

Flushed out the gas tank and installed new cap with gauge on it. Old one wash toast! Swapped out grills with the parts tractor. It had proper IH emblem as well as the lower grill wasn't melted and the upper one was not bent all out of shape.

Worked on the engine yesterday too, found the source of the leak on it. Wasn't the front seal, its the fuel pump! Screws were loose at least a turn or more and the gasket was have worn off with it vibrating so much! You can sort of see where my pick is ointing at the crack between the pump and housing in the picture. What a frig'n mess!

 

[mpatterson]

This is the mess that it had caused on the engine.

I see my clutch is getting tired too, hopefully it will last a while yet?

I used brake clean on a rag and a soft wire brush and scrapper to clean up the engine the best I could. Can't really wash it up properly until Spring. I used the wire brush to clean off the magnet for the clutch. Not much else I could do with it. The backer plate was cleaned up and some emery cloth was used to get some of the surface rust off it. Just an oily MESS!

This is what I was left with when finished. Can't really do much more to it this time of the year.

Going to try and pick up some gasket stock today maybe and cut my own gasket for the fuel pump. Hope to get it all re-assembled this week. I sprayed the carb good with carb cleaner, there was surprisingly hardly any build up of crap in it at all. The carb had never been removed from this machine. The bolts all still had the original paint on them covering things up. I am begining to think this engine doesn't have many hours on it, just worked hard in those hours?? I think with the mounting bolts for the engine being loose, things rattled way too much and made it look worn out.