782 Cub Cadet Excessive oil in Air Filter

[A Stalzer]

Hello i have recently purchases a 782 Cub Cadet had been sitting for about 5 years or more. I pulled the motor and replaced the starter and washed and cleaned the engine. I did a compression check with dry cylinders and i had 90 on one cylinder and 95 on the other cylinder. I put the engine back in the tractor and got it running. The tractor runs really well and has plenty of power. The issue i see is there is some oil in the air cleaner and seems to have alot of back pressure in the crank case. I tried rerouting the crank case vent down around the bottom of the engine but i must have had a kink and could release enough pressure and then i had oil all over the place. So i put everything back to the way it was. Any ideas for these issues the guy i got the tractor from said it had been overhauled years ago and he parked it because of the oil issue but the tractor runs very well. Any Help would be Greatly Appreciated.

Thanks Andy

 

[mgonitzke]

Crankcase breather is malfunctioning or assembled wrong, or there is a lot of blowby.

 

[tkhoffman]

I have the same issue. I think it's just blow-by as the PO had a shop class rebuild it. When I tart it cold, it definitely smokes until it warms up. I too rerouted the breather to keep oil from gumming up carburetor. Mine pinched off that very flexible hose coming out the Block. I'm hoping the built up pressure didn't push out a Crank Seal

 

[A Stalzer]

I have the same issue. I think it's just blow-by as the PO had a shop class rebuild it. When I tart it cold, it definitely smokes until it warms up. I too rerouted the breather to keep oil from gumming up carburetor. Mine pinched off that very flexible hose coming out the Block. I'm hoping the built up pressure didn't push out a Crank Seal

Yeah i am going to take the breather cover off over the weekend and see if i can make a better breather tube out of some better material and keep the oil out of the carb. I don't care if it drips a bit out of the bottom be just like the old IH tractors with the breathers out the bottom.

 

[mgonitzke]

That breather tube might still be available new...the material itself is not the issue so much as the fact it's 40 years old.

The oil is not going to gum up the carb. There is a newer design replacement part for the breather. I would replace that first and see if it helps, and keep the tube routed to the carb. Otherwise there will be oil all over the engine that will attract dirt and may cause overheating or a fire if allowed to build up enough.

 

[A Stalzer]

Do you have a part number for that new Breather by chance.

 

[mgonitzke]

Hose: KH-52-326-06
Breather: KH-52-035-02-S

If your serial number is 779971 or higher, KH-25-326-06-S for the hose and the breather P/N is the same.

 

[jstewart]

Honing a cylinder is best left to a capable individual with a Sunnen hone.

I fixed a 14hp Kohler that had been tapered horribly and cylinder scratched in a botched overhaul. Was afraid I would have to go all the way to .030 to get it to clean up, but just as I got to .020 it cleaned up
The cleaning process after honing is extremely critical

 

[rlause]

Sounds to me like there could be a problem with the breather valve. I would check it while you have things apart.

 

[jlord]

I wonder if an "oil trap can" might help. It goes between the crankcase breather and the air-filter. It routes oil mist through a series of baffles to cause it to condensate and run to the bottom of the can. Some cans you unscrew to drain it, the better ones have a valve tap at its bottom you open to drain it. The valve can be at the end of the drain hose.
I know it's not a fix for a more serious problem than a clogged or miss-assembled breather, but if the engine isn't burning a noticeable amount of oil then this might be an option.

 

[mgonitzke]

I wonder if an "oil trap can" might help. It goes between the crankcase breather and the air-filter. It routes oil mist through a series of baffles to cause it to condensate and run to the bottom of the can. Some cans you unscrew to drain it, the better ones have a valve tap at its bottom you open to drain it. The valve can be at the end of the drain hose.
I know it's not a fix for a more serious problem than a clogged or miss-assembled breather, but if the engine isn't burning a noticeable amount of oil then this might be an option.

What you are describing is done by the rest of the components of the breather that are not the reed valve. Actually fixing the breather would be a better solution than cobbling more stuff on there. The original design was this rubber check valve that gets hard and brittle and crumbles away. The new design/replacement one has a spring steel flap like all of the newer Kohler engines. If his engine still has the original one, it is likely not working at all, hence why this is the place to start if there are no other obvious major issues. His compression numbers seem good enough that the engine should not have a lot of blowby.

 

[tkhoffman]

What you are describing is done by the rest of the components of the breather that are not the reed valve. Actually fixing the breather would be a better solution than cobbling more stuff on there. The original design was this rubber check valve that gets hard and brittle and crumbles away. The new design/replacement one has a spring steel flap like all of the newer Kohler engines. If his engine still has the original one, it is likely not working at all, hence why this is the place to start if there are no other obvious major issues. His compression numbers seem good enough that the engine should not have a lot of blowby.

I'm sure mine is original on my kt17 1st gen. So I'd be looking to get the KH-52-035-02-S. correct?
That's a direct bolt on? It just looks larger.

 

[jlord]

-

 

[jlord]

What you are describing is done by the rest of the components of the breather that are not the reed valve. Actually fixing the breather would be a better solution than cobbling more stuff on there. The original design was this rubber check valve that gets hard and brittle and crumbles away. The new design/replacement one has a spring steel flap like all of the newer Kohler engines. If his engine still has the original one, it is likely not working at all, hence why this is the place to start if there are no other obvious major issues. His compression numbers seem good enough that the engine should not have a lot of blowby.

Let me point out that I did say, "a fix for a more serious problem than a clogged or miss-assembled breather".

 

[mgonitzke]

I'm sure mine is original on my kt17 1st gen. So I'd be looking to get the KH-52-035-02-S. correct?
That's a direct bolt on? It just looks larger.

Yes, that is the number shown in the parts lookup for the current version of that part for both the KT17 and M18 engines.

Let me point out that I did say, "a fix for a more serious problem than a clogged or miss-assembled breather".

That wouldn't fix anything though, just hide it.

 

[MarcHeld]

Overfilled crankcase oil can also cause this.

 

[A Stalzer]

Thanks for all the help. I thought i posed this before but cant seem to find it. I took the crankcase breather off and the the breather was turned the wrong way to where the reed valve was directly under the breather tube and the filter was on the opposite side of the tube also. All seems to be working correctly now thanks again.