20 HP Kawasaki Runs Rough 2086 Super Garden

[tbengal]

1997 model with 600 hrs used on a Cub 2086 Super Garden tractor, liquid cooled twin FD620 engine model. I have owned for about 5 years.

Always runs great when first started, but last summer, it would tend to run rough after mowing for 1 hour. I only noticed this after turning the deck off and lower the rpm to drive the tractor back into the barn. This spring I noticed it again. So I then looked at the valve clearance, only had to adjust 1 valve on 1 cylinder (plastic cam gear was changed at the 400 hr mark, valves adjusted then along with new coils). Then 3 weeks ago it would run rough even at full throttle. It acted like it was starving for fuel. (I was barely able to get it back to the barn, immediately checked the spark and it was good for both plugs, waited 30 minutes and then started it and finished mowing).

About 4 years ago it had a similar situation during warm operation, took it to a dealership, they changed the electrical fuel solenoid that is on the carb. That was the fix then, so I bought another one this month, installed, but after 2 mowings, the rough running is back during low rpm. If I remove the gas cap, no improvement. During the rough idle/low rpm, there are some poofs of black smoke. If I pull the choke out I can make the engine stall. When the choke is in, the choke plate appears vertical.

When the tractor is used in the winter for snow blowing, always runs great. To me, it has something to do with temperature, and maybe a too rich condition. Maybe the carb should be overhauled? Looking for advice!!

 

[kweaver]

Tim - I had one of those sitting here for a few years but never got my project going so I sold it a couple years ago. If they have plastic cam gears maybe it's best I sold it.

I don't see the temperature causing the carb to act up but with it blowing black smoke it sounds like it might be trying to flood. At low RPM since there's less fuel/air entering the engine I'd look at the float setting and also see if the float is sinking some (if they even have a float since EPA had their hands in that engine).

It's possible that a good cleaning and new gaskets might fix it

I have an 11.1meg pdf of the manual if you need a copy.

 

[jdiederichs]

Tim,
Pull apart the wiring harness plugs and make certain the terminals are clean, not all oxidized. The one from the main harness to the engine harness is especially prone to that. As temps rise the resistance increases and causes the condition you mention.Use a contact cleaner to remove any crud on the terminals You should have some dilectric grease (Available at NAPA etc) to coat the plug bodies of the harness when reassembling. Should everything be clean, I suspect the ignitor is your problem, they are also temp sensitive and do go bad.

 

[kweaver]

Jim - I was hoping you'd come in on the subject but I thought it best to answer with something so he wouldn't think he was ignored.

 

[wshytle]

Tim-

I'm not that familiar with that model engine but mice don't discriminate. Is it possible you're dealing with the hidden nest syndrom? If temperature might be the problem I've learned to grab the air hose and see if anything comes out when I blow in the engine shroud.

Just a thought. Good luck a fixn'

 

[tbengal]

I will look into the wire harness connections. There are no mice nests present. Carb does have a float.

 

[jdiederichs]

Ken,

Glad to jump in. As I said, those harness connections must be real "clean" electrically speaking.
I am leaning towards the ignitor as faulty, I would never suggest that first; it is a must to verify the harness terminals are clean or the failure will repeat soon after.
The ignitor is real fussy about excess resistance from corroded pins in the terminals, too much and it will go belly up again.

 

[jdiederichs]

Ken, We never ignore anyone, sometimes it takes longer to get the right answers. The people that know aren't always online, we do the best we can, right? I noticed some take that as a slight, sorry to say. (Not you, Tim)

 

[tbengal]

Are the terminals that need to be cleaned withing the flywheel shroud? Or will they be accessible by just removing the side engine covers? Plan on looking at tractor either Thursday night, or starting Friday morning.

I have looked at a service manual showing the location of the igniter and how to check with an ohm meter. The manual said to use a special meter when checking the igniter. How true is that?

It appears I have to remove the radiator and plastic shroud around the flywheel to gain access to the igniter and maybe also the pulsers. I am assuming that maybe I also have to remove the driveshaft so I can push the engine forward, so I can gain better access to the flywheel area, while the engine is still sitting in the garden tractor. How hard is it to remove the driveshaft? I am concern about maybe loosing something in the flex connection by the flywheel. Looking for advice!!

 

[jdiederichs]

Tim,

The wiring plugs you want to clean are all easy access, no need to get under the flywheel cover. Doubt you have pulser issues, but never say never...

Kawi's are suseptible to ignitor failures on occasion. You can have a Deere service tech check that if you want, a 5 minute job tops. They will also have stories about ignitors, trust me it will match your symptoms exactly.

In fact, they may be a good resource to help you fight the gremlins, should we fail you.

 

[jdiederichs]

Hey Tim,

It's been awhile since I wrenched on a 2086, but I thought the ignitor was mounted outside of the flywheel cover, once you take off the side panels from the tractor you should see it. I don't recall doing major surgery to get to it.

Seems it was attached with a small stamped bracket. It should be plug n play....

 

[tbengal]

There is a Deere dealership within 1/4 mile of the closed Cub dealership. I may visit/explain my situation after trying the connector cleaning first, then do a 1-1/2 acre mowing.

 

[tbengal]

A discovery was made! As I was going thru all the connections (opened & all appeared OK), I came across a single wire from the igniter that had a spot worned down to bare copper. Repaired that wire, mowed today and the tractor ran fine in all RPM ranges! Yes, the igniter is easy to get at, so the flywheel is not an issue. Thanks to all for your advice!!!!!!!!!!

 

[jdiederichs]

Those are the best kind of repairs; keeps cost down and works well. Cheers