Paul Lauria
Member
I have a 1650 Cub Cadet that lurches forward from a stationary position. Fluid levels are good, and all maintenance done. Can someone help me diagnose some of the typical guilty parts that cause it?
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
1650 Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Transmission Issues
- Thread starter Paul Lauria
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Time for a trunion repair.
http://cubfaq.com/hydrolurch.html
And some adjustments.
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
Paul Lauria
Member
THANK YOU VERY MUCH SIR!
Mark Evans
Well-known member
There is a dampener system with a spring and traveling pocket around it look for slack in the spring ends on it look closely !!!!
Paul Lauria
Member
Digger,
Another quick question when you have time.......... the blade speed of the 1650 I have slows considerably in moderate to heavy grass. Would you say this is normal for the single cylinder tractor? The engine runs great but it doesn't have the "punch" I would expect. Deck tension pulley is good, belts are good, mule drive is good. Is there any pulley upgrade or anything else you could suggest? I also realize this problem could be many things, but you were spot on about the trunnion repair that I wanted to pick your brain again. Thanks for your time. Paul Lauria
Oil leak from front seal behind the PTO would cause my belt to slip in medium / heavy grass. If you have a leak, not hard to fix...took me about 2 hours with simple hand tools and now my deck cruises through grass with ease...
First thing would be to check the air gap on the PTO, and go from there.
http://cubfaq.com/electric_pto.html
Unless it's a serious leak, and been leaking for 10 years or more, I have my doubts that enough oil could get to the PTO, just sayin.
snicklas
Well-known member
Agreed, I have a 1650, and it should drag the engine down, not slow the blades down. If the engine RPM stays the same, and the blades slow, then you should check all the above. Also make sure the pulleys, adjuster bolt, and spring arm are there and working properly on the mule drive.
Yeah, it was a good leak. My bad, I meant the oil was running down and getting on the belt underneath from behind the mule drive pulleys...not the actual PTO itself.Unless it's a serious leak, and been leaking for 10 years or more, I have my doubts that enough oil could get to the PTO, just sayin.
Mark Evans
Well-known member
When there is a power question all ways start with compression test and go through the governor spring setting and rpm set idle and full speed and the pull all belts and spin all bearings for dry and failing ones then you’ll KNOW ITS RIGHT !!!
Paul Lauria
Member
Would installing a new PTO take care of this or is this the "feeler" measurement in the link you sent me?
AQS engines have ACR's in them, so a compression test is out of the question.
Paul Lauria
Member
Digger,
So I did the trunion repair and tightened up the linkage points and while it is better it is jerkery as you stop the tractor and change directions. Anything else I should check? How smooth should it actually be?
Paul Lauria
Member
I should have been more specific. It doesn’t creep as in the neutral adjustment is off. When i advance the hydro lever it just isn’t smooth after I did all the repairs. I’ve included a pic of the completed repair of the trunion. There is no play in the linkage. I shimmed cam plates. I just don’t know why it isn’t smoother.
Attachments
Loosen the tension adjuster a little.
It's on the right side of the tower, behind the side panel, takes a 1-1/8"wrench.
There is a wave washer in there and I'd bet some rust as well...
You will have to remove the fuel tank & support to access this area and the nut for the tension adjuster.
There are 3 belleville spring washers (#21) and a friction disc, (#23) in there.
Pay attention to how the ass'y comes apart.
Therein lies your tension issue
Take it apart and clean, lube a bit and reinstall
A bit of lube on the rockshaft bearing (#20) won't hurt either
Or, you may be able to loosen it up with a dribble of WD down alongside the hydro lever.
It's on the right side of the tower, behind the side panel, takes a 1-1/8"wrench.
There is a wave washer in there and I'd bet some rust as well...
You will have to remove the fuel tank & support to access this area and the nut for the tension adjuster.
There are 3 belleville spring washers (#21) and a friction disc, (#23) in there.
Pay attention to how the ass'y comes apart.
Therein lies your tension issue
Take it apart and clean, lube a bit and reinstall
A bit of lube on the rockshaft bearing (#20) won't hurt either
Or, you may be able to loosen it up with a dribble of WD down alongside the hydro lever.
