149 Running terrible after overhaul

[bwstevens]

And new parts like condenser or coil are more than a little suspect these days .

 

[mjame]

If you removed the crank then you may be off by one gear with the timing.

 

[jstouffer]

Pulled engine to double check crank and cam shaft timing. It was right on. Have replaced spark plug, Coil wire, Coil, Condenser, and points. Cleaned fuel tank and added new filter, rebuilt carb. Points push rod is OK. Still runs terrible off idle. At idle it runs OK. Checked valve lash again. Points set at .020. Ordered new Carburetor. Still at a loss.

 

[bwstevens]

Points are never left at .020. Close them up some.like .015 maybe even less. You are sure you adjusted the exhaust valve lash not on the acr lift ?

 

[dschwandt]

Again, static time the engine.

 

[abthomas]

do you have a full flow of fuel from the line removed from the carb ? should have a good continues flow ??

 

[jkoenig]

/\ Excellent thought. How is the fuel delivery? I had a plugged fuel strainer once that fooled me for a while. I think you said the tank is clean earlier, but it might not hurt to look again at the fuel exit from the tank.

 

[Mark Evans]

While it’s running spray a little light fuel around intake housings and look for split gaskets, and I have had many times got governors out of wack on rods, and or placement also look for glazing varnish on the spark plug electrode and carbon tracks on the porcelain ?????

 

[Mark Evans]

While it’s running spray a little light fuel around intake housings and look for split gaskets, and I have had many times got governors out of wack on rods, and or placement also look for glazing varnish on the spark plug electrode and carbon tracks on the porcelain ?????

Also had one crankshaft that had the index off on the rod to TDC to crank gear slightly twisted, DONT know how or what caused it had an old machinist catch that on a forth tear down, that was a head scratcher ?????

 

[Mark Evans]

While it’s running spray a little light fuel around intake housings and look for split gaskets, and I have had many times got governors out of wack on rods, and or placement also look for glazing varnish on the spark plug electrode and carbon tracks on the porcelain ?????

Can use a rag with light fuel on it and rub in along the intake housings for cracks unseeable !!!

 

[Mark Evans]

Vac leaks are a pain on restoration!!!

 

[mgonitzke]

Lot of things being tossed out here that are not applicable to a K-series. The crank is one piece, including the gear- it can't slip or be in the wrong orientation. If the timing marks were lined up on assembly, then that is not the issue. Only places to have a vacuum leak are the throttle shaft and the gasket/spacer between the carb and engine, and since the OP says it idles smooth, a vacuum leak is not the problem, either.

I'll repeat that the points need to be static timed or set with a timing light. Just setting them to 0.020" is a STARTING POINT and will allow the engine to run, but does not correspond to perfect timing. I once had an engine that would not start with the points set at 0.020". Ended up set at 0.008" to get the timing right.

 

[Mark Evans]

Lot of things being tossed out here that are not applicable to a K-series. The crank is one piece, including the gear- it can't slip or be in the wrong orientation. If the timing marks were lined up on assembly, then that is not the issue. Only places to have a vacuum leak are the throttle shaft and the gasket/spacer between the carb and engine, and since the OP says it idles smooth, a vacuum leak is not the problem, either.

I'll repeat that the points need to be static timed or set with a timing light. Just setting them to 0.020" is a STARTING POINT and will allow the engine to run, but does not correspond to perfect timing. I once had an engine that would not start with the points set at 0.020". Ended up set at 0.008" to get the timing right.

Cranks can get a twist in the indexing and have to be checked with a degree wheel and dial indicator to gearing !!!! By a machinist !!!!

 

[bwstevens]

Lot of things being tossed out here that are not applicable to a K-series. The crank is one piece, including the gear- it can't slip or be in the wrong orientation. If the timing marks were lined up on assembly, then that is not the issue. Only places to have a vacuum leak are the throttle shaft and the gasket/spacer between the carb and engine, and since the OP says it idles smooth, a vacuum leak is not the problem, either.

I'll repeat that the points need to be static timed or set with a timing light. Just setting them to 0.020" is a STARTING POINT and will allow the engine to run, but does not correspond to perfect timing. I once had an engine that would not start with the points set at 0.020". Ended up set at 0.008" to get the timing right.

 

[bwstevens]

As Mgonitzke says , time the engine and inspect the points checking that the spring is centered and it is not grounding along it's edge or any place else.

 

[mgonitzke]

Cranks can get a twist in the indexing and have to be checked with a degree wheel and dial indicator to gearing !!!! By a machinist !!!!

I'm sorry, but there is NO WAY a single-throw crank in an industrial engine is going to permanently twist enough to affect the timing. This is just not something that happens to these engines. All of these silly suggestions are not helping. Nearly all of your automotive-oriented suggestions are not applicable in this context.

 

[lpalma]

Be sure when you clean the carb these two holes are clear or nuttin gonna happen when you open the throttle.
Also run a jumper from the + on the coil to the + on the battery to check for issues with the wiring, one time I had the same problem and there was only 2 strands making contact on the ignition switch.

 

[Mark Evans]

I'm sorry, but there is NO WAY a single-throw crank in an industrial engine is going to permanently twist enough to affect the timing. This is just not something that happens to these engines. All of these silly suggestions are not helping. Nearly all of your automotive-oriented suggestions are not applicable in this context.

I seen single cylinders to 16 cylinder ones off just a little causes problems and on Cat cranks !!!

 

[bwstevens]

I'm surprised you didn't say to check the air in the left rear tire . The frame would need some reinforcement for a cat engine

 

[Mark Evans]

I’ve found engines of all types with cranks that were bumped and out of position it’s actually very common if you’ve worked on many did this for forty years and I’ve found many of carburetors with cracks in the aluminum housing that did not show up till it was died with a machinist blooming and use jewelers glasses to inspect when you’ve had two courses of failure analysis with cat you get used a lot to find were others have failed and could not fix the problem !!!!