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1320 Hydrostat Weak Reverse

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I hear you guys about getting addicted. I started off with a 1650 and loved it then a 149 now this mtd cub cadet. It was free so it was for me!
 
Ed- I don't have any first hand experience with the 2000 series but I have looked closely at them and they seem to be well built for their intended purpose. Not quite as heavy as the 3000 series but stronger than the lawn tractor 1000 series machines. Hopefully one of the guys will chime in that owns or has owned one of the 2000 series...
 
2000 series make great donor tractors for CH18 engines to put in 82 series!!!!!
 
The motor runs it seems to be leaking up front. I'm no sure how hard it is to replace the seal.
 
I agree wholeheartedly with the advice given by Matt G; the first step before anything else, is to thoroughly clean the engine and adjacent area well. Automotive aerosol cans of engine degreaser work very well, may need to rinse and repeat if really caked and baked on.
After a cleaning is done, it will become obvious where the leak's origin is.

IF it were the front seal, best to remove the top hood and front grille, it will make repairs easier by far. Remove the one bolt holding the PTO clutch to the crankshaft. Clutch will slide off , then remove the spacer on crankshaft behind the clutch. Now you have full access to the seal. Inspect if the seal is dislodged from the bore, or installed incorrectly. DO NOT pound or push on the seal or it may walk itself into the inside of the cover. A simple removal is to drill two small holes in seal, (one may be enough) Insert a sheet metal screw into the hole, until it is sturdy, then extract the seal with a pliers on said screw. (drywall screws actually work great too.) Clean up the crankshaft in the seal surface area. New seal can then be installed. It must be "square" to the bore, not angled when installed. I personally like to coat the seal's outer surface with Permatex Hi Tack or similar bonding and sealing agent. I also apply a thin film of clean grease or Vaseline to the seals inner surface on the "lips" so it can ease into a smooth start until engine oil coats it.

You can run the engine with the PTO clutch removed, no problem; inspect for any other leaks. Examples include: Oil filter base, front (timing gears) COVER, if above the clutch, perhaps from breather gasket or failed breather. No sense of rushing it back together quite yet, first learn the origin of the leak(s) .

It would be wiser to continue this discussion back on the thread you started "2185 oil leak" than to continue to hijack this one, for everyone's sake of clarity.}
 
I agree wholeheartedly with the advice given by Matt G; the first step before anything else, is to thoroughly clean the engine and adjacent area well. Automotive aerosol cans of engine degreaser work very well, may need to rinse and repeat if really caked and baked on.
After a cleaning is done, it will become obvious where the leak's origin is.

IF it were the front seal, best to remove the top hood and front grille, it will make repairs easier by far. Remove the one bolt holding the PTO clutch to the crankshaft. Clutch will slide off , then remove the spacer on crankshaft behind the clutch. This is an ideal time to run the unit, examining like source of the leak before proceeding. Now you have full access to the seal. Inspect if the seal is dislodged from the bore, or installed incorrectly. DO NOT pound or push on the seal or it may walk itself into the inside of the cover. A simple removal is to drill two small holes in seal, (one may be enough) Insert a sheet metal screw into the hole, until it is sturdy, then extract the seal with a pliers on said screw. (drywall screws actually work great too.) Clean up the crankshaft in the seal surface area. New seal can then be installed. It must be "square" to the bore, not angled when installed. I personally like to coat the seal's outer surface with Permatex Hi Tack or similar bonding and sealing agent. I also apply a thin film of clean grease or Vaseline to the seals inner surface on the "lips" so it can ease into a smooth start until engine oil coats it.

You can run the engine with the PTO clutch removed, no problem; inspect for any other leaks. Examples include: Oil filter base, front (timing gears) COVER, if above the clutch, perhaps from breather gasket or failed breather. No sense of rushing it back together quite yet, first learn the origin of the leak(s) .

It would be wiser to continue this discussion back on the thread you started "2185 oil leak" than to continue to hijack this one, for everyone's sake of clarity.}
 

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