1210 Electrical Issues, Kohler Command 12

[scottpelak76]

Howdy Gang.
Just purchased a 1210. It would not start at the seller's house so we jumped the solenoid and we did get it running after a few shots of ether.
I wanted to get it going once I got home to double-check the drive and make sure my time and energy would be worth it. We jiggled everything on the tractor to get it to fire and the motor sounded really good, no smoke, no leaks (at sellers).

Well, after monkeying around and bypassing safeties, I installed a push button under the new-key switch.
It runs direct to the battery and starter solenoid. She turns and turns but no spark.

My question is... is there a quick and dirty way to get this thing going so I can test the drive and then start the tear down?

Thanks for your help!

 

[digger]

Howdy Gang.
Just purchased a 1210. It would not start at the seller's house so we jumped the solenoid and we did get it running after a few shots of ether.
I wanted to get it going once I got home to double-check the drive and make sure my time and energy would be worth it. We jiggled everything on the tractor to get it to fire and the motor sounded really good, no smoke, no leaks (at sellers).

Well, after monkeying around and bypassing safeties, I installed a push button under the new-key switch.
It runs direct to the battery and starter solenoid. She turns and turns but no spark.

My question is... is there a quick and dirty way to get this thing going so I can test the drive and then start the tear down?

Thanks for your help!

What's the serial #? There's 3 options.

 

[tkhoffman]

If the new key switch is wired correctly and it was in the Run position when you cranked the motor, it should start.
I've had new 'direct replacement' key switches be totally disconnected internally.

 

[1811Cub]

Disconnect the engine harness from the rest of the tractor and see if it starts. The 1986-89 1210 should have a Kohler 12HP Magnum flat head K series derative originally. They use a kill circuit to the magneto to ground out the magneto and thus shutting off the engine.

If you have a 1985 1210, those are a Kohler K321 with points.

 

[gary noblit]

Howdy Gang.
Just purchased a 1210. It would not start at the seller's house so we jumped the solenoid and we did get it running after a few shots of ether.
I wanted to get it going once I got home to double-check the drive and make sure my time and energy would be worth it. We jiggled everything on the tractor to get it to fire and the motor sounded really good, no smoke, no leaks (at sellers).

Well, after monkeying around and bypassing safeties, I installed a push button under the new-key switch.
It runs direct to the battery and starter solenoid. She turns and turns but no spark.

My question is... is there a quick and dirty way to get this thing going so I can test the drive and then start the tear down?

Thanks for your help!

Scott, the key in off position grounds the coil..can't spark..look at 1811 thoughts

 

[mgonitzke]

Got a pic of the engine in your tractor? It came with either a Kohler K301 or M12, but not a Command.

 

[scottpelak76]

Disconnect the engine harness from the rest of the tractor and see if it starts. The 1986-89 1210 should have a Kohler 12HP Magnum flat head K series derative originally. They use a kill circuit to the magneto to ground out the magneto and thus shutting off the engine.

If you have a 1985 1210, those are a Kohler K321 with points.

This has the mag, it is the latest run of 1210 built.

 

[scottpelak76]

Here is where I am at now. I am not giving up because my wife tells me I take on stressful jobs only to hurt myself. lol.
I intend to make this a county-fair worthy tractor if it kills me.
I have the latest 1210. To begin with, I recently purchased this unit. Only 500 hours. It looks it. Dash is pristine, has all the original stickers, etc... and no squirrels nests of hacked wires. I installed a push-button to over-ride the solenoid wire with a brand-new solenoid, 3 post. This helped to eliminate all the safeties. I also added 12V to the black-wire that goes through the charge gauge, so we have 12V at the key switch (new key switch, identical to the original).
The tractor turns but has no spark. What else could I be missing that might be stopping the spark from occuring?

 

[scottpelak76]

BINGO, 1811Cub you know your stuff! Pulled the engine off the harness and boom! Purred like a little CUB~!
Appreciate the help! I have a 44" cutting deck, and the Rotary Tiller Model One. I won't use the tiller, it's off already, will keep the rear gear/pulley deal on it in case I ever want a rear powered implement again. If your in FL and need the tiller, look me up.
I will post some pics as things progress. 400.00 worth of Chevron rubber on my front porch already!

 

[scottpelak76]

Hello Y'all.
Have a question.
Ref: I abandoned my original wiring harness.

The only problem I have is the there is no provision for battery charging.

Which wire should be run back to the battery?
The white wire pictured (lower left) is attached to on/off switch, need that to start it.
I tried running the white through the switch and back to the battery and it would not start.
The purple wire is cut.

See pic please. Thanks in advance.

 

[mgonitzke]

The center wire coming out of the rectifier is the one that connects to the battery through the ignition switch. Looks like that would be the purple one in your pic.

 

[scottpelak76]

I had a feeling. Thanks a bunch!

 

[scottpelak76]

Running like a humdinger and charging too! Thanks again!

 

[1811Cub]

Great to hear!