Question for the Narrow Frame Experts

dschwandt said:

OK, so you have an electric clutch on your Cub, correct?
What is the diameter of the clutch and the width of the sheave on it?
Compare this with the diameter of the clutch that is supposed to be on there.
Therein may lie the gist of your issues with the mule drive pullies not lining up and the belt issues you are having.

Must not be the original engine either, any clue as to what engine it is? an AQS perhaps?
I think you should start a new thread for your issues so more folks can zero in and try to help.
May we assume you bought tis unit in its present configuration thereby inheriting all it's issues in the process?

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So you're suggesting I replace my entire working engine, pto clutch, and find an OEM pto clutch linkage and lever just to save a few bucks on some belts?

I think you guys have been smoking something green other than those belts.

Yeah, I bought it like this, more or less. No mule drive or mower deck, but it was only $300 bucks, and only like 2 miles away, and it fired right up.
I'll get a pic of the engine this week when I mow the lawn. It's missing that heavy gauge heat shield that goes over the top of the engine, and that 90° elbow that makes the muffler lay down across the front of the engine, so my muffler sticks upright out the left side of the unit, big rig style. I considered looking for those parts, but if I'm going to have to replace belts on the regular, I'd rather not have to remove my (probably hot) muffler as well as the pto brace in order to slip the new belt in. However, I'm hoping that once I get the belt situation more dialed in, this will become less of a problem, and I'll think about changing my muffler from the stack setup back to stock underhood. For reference to what I'm talking about, find my girl's glamor shot on my intro page.

dsarow said:

I'm a big fan of O.E.M.

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So am I, but not when the hole in my bank account is a few dollars vs a couple thousand plus blood, sweat, frustration, and increased hypertension to source vintage parts that are as rare as hen's teeth, buy them at astronomical prices, spend weeks in the middle of mowing season, in an un-air conditioned garage installing them, busting my knuckles, swearing at parts that don't want to go together, raising my blood pressure, increasing my health care costs, all so I can save $4 twice a summer so I don't have to put bargain belts into my vintage lawnmower.

Hey Bud, I am not suggesting anything here other than starting a dedicated thread of your own for this issue.
Just trying to find out exactly WTH you are dealing with here so everyone can can be on the same page!
I'm done.

dschwandt said:

Hey Bud, I am not suggesting anything here other than starting a dedicated thread of your own for this issue.
Just trying to find out exactly WTH you are dealing with here so everyone can can be on the same page!
I'm done.

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There's a lesson here for all. These tractors, to me, are jury-rigged, the bane of all used equipment buyers. If needing a pto and the spare you have is larger, use it anyway. Buying my CC102 I was the second owner. Still, I'm naturally suspicious and had IH manuals to go on, paying closest attention to mower and mule drive. The other lesson is overall condition, cosmetic damage, rust, grease all over, leaks....it hasn't been cared for.
Cheers, Jack

dschwandt said:

Hey Bud, I am not suggesting anything here other than starting a dedicated thread of your own for this issue.
Just trying to find out exactly WTH you are dealing with here so everyone can can be on the same page!
I'm done.

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Hey sorry man, it was a long night and I got radical.

MadMonkMort said:

So am I, but not when the hole in my bank account is a few dollars vs a couple thousand plus blood, sweat, frustration, and increased hypertension to source vintage parts that are as rare as hen's teeth, buy them at astronomical prices, spend weeks in the middle of mowing season, in an un-air conditioned garage installing them, busting my knuckles, swearing at parts that don't want to go together, raising my blood pressure, increasing my health care costs, all so I can save $4 twice a summer so I don't have to put bargain belts into my vintage lawnmower.

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David is one of our experts and his main purpose is to help us schlubs keep-up our Cubs. He asked you knowledge-based questions to help with your problem and you tossed him off. Once in a while I can help list members...feels good. You need to lighten up.
Jack C

jack casey said:

David is one of our experts and his main purpose is to help us schlubs keep-up our Cubs. He asked you knowledge-based questions to help with your problem and you tossed him off. Once in a while I can help list members...feels good. You need to lighten up.
Jack C

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Sorry Mad Monk, I missed your reply to David.
Jack

I was only stating what works for me MadMonkMort.I bought my 125 jury rigged up before I had joined this forum and I knew a thing about these old Cubs.I pay a lot of attention to the knowledgeable guys who share pictures and experiences with the others.I now know I paid to much back in the day,but slowly I have got it figured out.The sponsors,their parts,knowledge makes for an enjoyable hobby for me!

dsarow said:

I was only stating what works for me MadMonkMort.I bought my 125 jury rigged up before I had joined this forum and I knew a thing about these old Cubs.I pay a lot of attention to the knowledgeable guys who share pictures and experiences with the others.I now know I paid to much back in the day,but slowly I have got it figured out.The sponsors,their parts,knowledge makes for an enjoyable hobby for me!

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It's a hobby, but it also needs to be practical. I'm not building a restoration trailer queen, with every piece of chrome flawless from the factory. If it works and gets the job done, I'm a happy guy. Mostly. If OEM parts just happen to fall into my lap as well, then so be it all the better. Would I get rid of the electric pto clutch? Yes, in heartbeat. That thing is awful. But it works. For now.
And I should add that I am always grateful to the community no matter how I come off, I just have a rough style. I'm not right in the head. Hence the handle.

Here is the fix as promised. Welds ground off and old shaft removed. The spring loaded idler arm was bored out to take a steel tube which acts as a bushing, greatly increasing the bearing area. Tube welded into position and an oil hole allows for occasional lubrication. The idler arm was straightened per the pictures provided (thank you Kraig and Charlie). The shaft was drilled for the locator roll pins and shaft was then inserted into the brackets with idler arms assembled on the shaft. Hardened washers were also placed on the end locations of the idler arms to prevent wear against the stationary pins. Shaft was welded back into the mounting brackets and all that's left to do is to paint, lube and reassemble idler pulleys to brackets, and we should be ready for another 50 years of reliable performance. Thanks to my friend Brian Kearns for the expert welding and assistance.

I made a post earlier about replacing the main pin & welding up holes & re-drilling. I in fact done the same as you, installed a sleeve & a grease fitting.

My goodness-that’s beautiful!

David, nice job on the repair!