Z force ztr 50"...lowering the blades?

[lharvey]

My husband and I bought a used Z force a few weeks ago. It runs really great except I (not my husband) think it cuts too high even though we have the deck set at it's lowest setting. I posted the question on another board about possibly lowering the cutting blades. We have lowered the tire pressure in the back tires as they were inflated to the max. That didn't lower the deck any appreciable amount. Someone suggested a different type of blade but I called the Cub dealer here and he said they don't make any other blade for our mower. We checked the spacer to make sure it was put on before the blade and not afterwards. The distance from the blades to the concrete drive measures 2" when the deck is at it's lowest. According to the manual, we should be able to mow as low as 1.5".

What are we missing here??? Oh, I was told several times that it is better to mow high. Yes, I know this but I mow 5+ acres/weekly and prefer the yard to look unshaggy for as long as possible before having to mow again. My preference, not particularly my husbands. I do most of the mowing. And we live out in the country so we don't really mow "grass", just green! Lots of weeds.

So, if you have any other suggestions or things to check, could you please let us know? Some of the responses I got on the other board got too technical for me to understand so my husband finally had to take over. I may need to get him on this board too unless you can keep it basic enough for me to grasp. I'm no dummy but I don't know all the lingo with mower parts either.

Thanks for any help you can give. I appreciate it! rabbit

 

[sblunier]

You could possibly extend the rear lifting/leveling attachment links as far as possible (keeping the deck level side to side) and then extend the front tugs to level it front to back. This may buy you your .5"

Mow the grass whatever height you like, but I will offer one bit of concern, not for your grass, but for your mower. Running the deck at 2" or lower significantly increases the chances that you will beat the hell out of the deck skin, gauge wheels, etc. especially because you are mowing 5 acres of grass/weeds that more than likely isn't pool table smooth. This is compounded by the fact that the ZTR swings the deck around side to side quite a bit in turns. On rougher ground, with the deck set very low this can be pretty tough on equipment...not immediately noticeable, but in a few years it will start to show up as cracks, dents, unlevel mowing, etc.

With my Cub Cadet ZTR (older model), with the deck set at 3" I notice some dragging on turns if the ground is uneven.

Like I said, mow at whatever height you want, but consider the real difference between 1/2" of grass height every week, vs a beat up deck in a few years....2" IMHO is low enough, if for no other reason than to prevent some potential damage.

Hope lowering the leveling links helps get you where you want to be.

 

[mbounds]

Linda: From someone else who also keeps over 5 rough acres mowed regularly, I can only say "Well said Steve B!!" Linda, that deck will not stand up to what you are trying to do to it. Steve's got it right...please listen to him..

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[lharvey]

Well guys...what can I say. I don't doubt what you are saying about the wear and tear on the deck/equipment over time if I mow low. I am just disappointed that it is what it is.

OK, let's say I leave the mower deck where it's at now on the lowest setting (forgetting about possibly lowering the cutting blades). Are you saying that I shouldn't even be mowing at THAT setting either and that I should raise the mower deck up a notch or two? That would help with the stress on my mower but I can see where this is headed. I'll be mowing grass much higher than I am now and hating it. Why would they even make the deck work at that low of a level if it was going to damage the mower over time? Seems that if it will go that low, it wouldn't hurt the mower.

I appreciate your input, both of you, and WILL take it into account. And as for the rear lifting/leveling attachment links Steve, I'll let my husband handle that one. I have NO idea what that is.

Linda

 

[aaytay]

Linda-
I also agree with Steve's statement about not mowing any lower than what you're getting right now. It's just plain hard on the equipment. You're smart for listening to him on this.

You asked this question:
"Why would they even make the deck work at that low of a level if it was going to damage the mower over time? Seems that if it will go that low, it wouldn't hurt the mower."

Think of it like this, our cars are made to go alot faster than we typically drive on a daily basis.

One of the reasons we drive slower is safety. Another reason is that it is tough on a vehicle to run it at 90mph every time you get on the roads.

Will the car go 90 mph? Sure, but it's not going to last as long, nor be as safe. The same thing happens to your mower. At a lower height, it's going to drag across any lumps you have in the ground, and it's going to suck up much more sand and rocks which will beat the "peanuts" out of things under there. (Just like the example of a car....safety and longevity issues arise.) Just like doing 90 mph in a car, there may be certain situations where you need to mow very low, but those really should be limited.

I too live outside the city, so I can understand your comments about "mowing green" vs. "mowing grass". Out here we have very little "grass" but a lot of "green" to chop down every week. That said, you really aren't doing any of the plants that make up your "green" any favors if you cut them much lower than you already are.

Something else to think about I guess....

Hope this helps.

 

[kide]

Guys, you're taking this whole discussion in the wrong direction..
See - if Linda had a tractor she enjoyed driving, like a 782D with a 50" deck, she wouldn't mind mowing more often - the whole problem here is the dag-nab new fangled ride that's no fun to drive... (and yes, I own one o' them spin on a dime and leave a divot suckers myself...

 

[sblunier]

Linda,

Let me preface this by saying, I demand that my mowers both perform (cut well at the upper level of reasonable speeds), and do a good job (leave the lawn looking smooth, flat, and a day later not full of run down tire tracks, etc).

I spend a lot of time with my decks (old ones that come off trade ins, etc.) to get them working right. I don't claim to be an expert, but I have worked on quite a few decks, seen a lot of them in various conditions (including ones like your machine has on it), and have helped quite a few people around here get their decks up and running correctly, both through the FAQ section and individual posts. In short, I'm very well qualified to make the following comments.....

1) No matter what the cutting height, a deck that is not true, straight, and level will not give good results. The GOAL is GOOD RESULTS, smooth even cut and reasonable mowing speeds (if not a touch faster). Tall grass, short grass, medium grass...the lawn will still look like crap (NOT the GOAL) if your deck is not performing.

2) Decks that are beat to heck do not perform was well as thouse that are maintained...how can they???? You can tune them up, but in short order the abuse they take knocks them around, and pretty soon you are back to an out of adjustment deck......and BAD RESULTS.

3) Decks run low to the ground, over large areas (especially less than smooth areas) get BEAT UP...they just do, and you can't do much to fix that....they are hanging "down where the action is", but getting their "knocks" because of it. I have seen lots of these decks (older Cub decks are known for "nose diving", and after several years of that service, they can get to a point where they are very difficult to fix, cracked, bent, beat, etc.)

4) Unless you are the type who is willing to "tinker" with your deck adjustments to keep them "in" and not "out", mowing at low levels greatly increases the chances of BAD RESULTS, because it takes more work to keep it "right". Not to offend, but because of your responses to some of these questions, you don't seem to be the "tinker" type, willing to put extra time into adjustments and repairs to insure performance. (Not to imply that that's bad, but on these boards we tend to be extreme "tinkerers", and enjoy the challenge of the "perfect cut")

GOOD PERFORMANCE of a deck is a lot like the alignment of your car....keep it on the road, miss the big pot holes, avoid the curbs, etc. and you only get it adjusted every 40-60k when you need new tires. Now, take your Honda Civic out on the rough gravel roads, bounce off a few curbs, and before you know it your alignment is off.

Now for my 100% honest opinion of your mowing situation as I see it from your description......

Your machine is not made to mow 5 acres at 1.5"....I don't care what the literature says, it's not up for a long term diet of it, this is the realm of the 1/4" plate fabricated decks on the $10k machines, and even they would take abuse from it. The Z-force with it's drawn/stamped 50" deck is a well made medium/heavy RESIDENTIAL machine, built to perform, but at an affordable price. (I own one very similar to it) I would not mow any lower than 2.5-3" and would concentrate on leaving the lawn looking as smooth and well manicured as possible so as to minimize the "shaggy" look for the longest amount of time possible. I would much rather have 3" grass look good for 5-6 days, than 2" grass that looks rough and mis-cut in 2 days...or right after (due to a deck that isn't performing).........BUT, that is MY OPINION ONLY.

 

[lbaker]

Well put Steve.I would add that cutting so close assists the weeds growth. I cut at 3 inches and allows the grass to overcover the weeks. Thats on 2 1/3 acres, 52" deck with a Hustler ztr.

 

[kide]

Steve - you hit it all on the head..
I mow with a 48" Scag Tiger Cub (that's one of those with a 1/4 inch plate deck) and even then I cringe when I smack something.. Our next door neighbor bought one after using mine and she mows about four acres at about an inch and a half. By the end of next month, the grass'll be dying back and the weeds moving in. The neighbor across the road also bought a Tiger Cub (my local L&G likes me - sorry MTD), he keeps his at about two and a half inches and has more grass and less weeds all summer. BTW - gas goes higher, the deck's going back on the 129...

 

[lharvey]

To all of you "tinkerers" out there who have been so kind to offer your advice and opinions, I say this... I believe you all have convinced me to mow higher. I'll just have to get used to the "new look". I am a person who strongly believes in preventive medicine, so to speak, and if this higher mowing will keep my Cub running better for longer...that is what I want. I'm never shy about asking for help and I do believe you all have given me pretty consistent advice. How can I argue with experienced tinkers! One thing though, Steve, that you mentioned that is incorrect. I DO want to spend the extra effort to keep my mower adjusted and repaired, but unfortunately I can't physically do that nor can I get the mower loaded onto the back of our pickup truck to take to the shop by myself either. I'm kind of at the mercy of my husband to take care of those things. All I can say is it's too bad some of you guys don't live closer to me! You'd be pretty handy to have around!!!

Thanks to all of you for being so sweet and knowledgeable! Linda

 

[sblunier]

Linda,

I'm glad you care about keeping your Cub in good shape...it makes all of us happy to know you appreciate your equipment and want the best from it!!!!!!

 

[agitch]

I second what Lyle said. After research on the internet I am cutting at about 2 3/4 inches and have noticed that my grass is looking better every time and there's less and less weeds. The longer grass helps get rid of the weeds.

 

[thagren]

Having worked on a ton of these "Z-force" cubs, which can also be had as Troy Bilt Z riders, identical mowers mind you..

I will offer this little bit of advice. You may want to start a little fund for replacement of this machine in the next 2 years. This mower, despite what you were or were not told by the salesman, is meant for cutting up to 1 acre of grass, 1 time per week. The drive system, as in the belt and tensioner for the hydro's, is flimsy, and it tends to fail around the 75 hour mark. The tensioner deflects down, and actually twists the frame, until the belt gets chewed up and breaks. The decks are very prone to collecting grass clippings. The spindle covers are tall and deep, clean them often. The deck lift is simply 2 cables, about 8" long, with pot metal loops on each end, they are a pain to swap out when they break, and they are easily broken if you hit solid objects, or mount the mower using the deck as a step.

The motors are usually the Kohler Courage twin, the air filter is prone to clogging and bypassing, remove and tap it out after every use if you are in a dusty location, make sure it is installed properly.

The Control handles are prone to breaking off. These are just stamped steel posts at the bottom, and if you use it as a handle to get on the mower, or move one too quickly, it can snap off, or bend over without much effort.

The Front Casters, lube them as often as every other use, and avoid hitting potholes at all costs, the casters will bend and make turns difficult.

Not a terrible machine for a small lot...but it is not meant for 2+ acres, at least not for more than 2 years.

We have one that comes in every other month for something...it is used to cut a little over 5 acres a week, and is sitting on just over 200 hours, and he has a fortune invested in repairs. But he doesnt really take exceptional care of it either.

Good luck.

 

[esechler]

Tom, You are talking about the RZT cub zero turns , not the Z-Force Cub zero turns. The RZT's are the same machine as the Troybilts. The Z-Force is a better quality machine.

 

[thagren]

I appologize, Iwas reffering to the RZT mowers.

The Z-force however arent alot better, considering they are more expensive. The only improvement I can spot on them is the decks are better. But the drive train/frame still leaves alot to be desired.

Absolutely a ZF over a RZT.

But for a little more money, you can get much more machine looking at other brands, whom shall remain nameless.