Work begins on 104

[bpientka]

Almost wrapped up on the loader build so I started another project. The other year I was given a 104 by a friend. Not a runner but most of the parts there. I tore into the engine k241 over the weekend. This is my first single cylinder kohler. Well after degreasing the engine I started disassembling. Still needs another degreasing and scrubbing after I get the clutch off. I am not sure you could pack any more junk under those metal engine covers! I suspect motor ran very hot as not much air could move through.

Definitely a bad head gasket. Not sure but I see no markings on piston top. Haven’t had it measured yet but can visually see it will need some boring.

Still working on getting the clutch off. After two days of pb blaster was able to get the three set screws out. Hit everything again with pb blaster again but clutch still holding on.

Any suggestions would be great!

 

[kharvey]

There should be three more set screws holding the PTO on. 2 in each hole.

 

[bpientka]

THANKS! Removed the additional set screws and was able to get the clutch off. Tired to get pulley set screws off. No luck but will let pb blaster work some magic on them. Hopefully after a good soak they will free up. Try again tomorrow.

 

[bpientka]

Pulley set screws off. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get the pulley off without damaging it? Steel seems too thin to use a pulley.

 

[digger]

Pulley set screws off. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get the pulley off without damaging it? Steel seems too thin to use a pulley.

2 long handled pry bars and a couple 1x pieces of wood as backers for the bars. Wiggle and giggle, it will pop off.

 

[jstich]

2 long handled pry bars and a couple 1x pieces of wood as backers for the bars. Wiggle and giggle, it will pop off.

If that clutch uses the eccentric locking ring, you might want to consider removing it before prying

 

[digger]

If that clutch uses the eccentric locking ring, you might want to consider removing it before prying

Jerry,
It's actually concentric, although some might be a little mentally off on occasion.
http://cubfaq.com/bearingcollar.html

 

[mgwin]

Bernie,
If you are talking about the flywheel basket pulley, take a brass punch and tap the pulley in just a little. Sand the shaft shiny, and then it should come off much easier.

 

[hydroharry]

Jerry - he said he already got the clutch removed and now needs to remove the pulley (which must be the basket pulley as Marty mentioned). If he's trying to get the pulley off then he must already have the eccentric bearing and concentric locking collar removed.

Charlie - I believe I got that right about the bearing and locking collar. The bearing is eccentric (since it doesn't have a common center) and locking collar is concentric (since it does have a common center).

Bernie - what ever you do, do NOT use a 2 or 3 jaw puller. You can try Digger's suggestion but don't know if you'll get any pry bars behind it since it's so close to the block. The only part you can pry against is the center ring part that slips over the shaft. The other parts are to thin. I like Marty's idea of shinning up the crankshaft before trying to slide it off. Make sure there are no burrs on the key way or the dang thing will just bind up and stick. There is a special tool you might be able to make or find for sale (or even borrow). It uses 2 screws in the set screw holes. I believe Frank Currier made the one below in the first pic. The 2nd pic shows one you can buy for about $25 plus shipping.

 

[danderson]

Cub manual says exactly what Charlie said. 2 screwdrivers 180° apart.

 

[bpientka]

Thanks Everyone. The clutch is removed. I am working on the pulley with the basket.

I like the puller idea. Will check my metal supply tomorrow. Looks like a pretty simple design with the right sized material.

 

[mgwin]

Those two "jigs" that Harry showed would probably be the best way to go. Might have to make one soon.
Being curious as to how far I could get without doing any damage, I went ahead and tried removing the basket.

After removing the set screws, I took a regular small punch and tapped the keyway in just a little.
I then took a brass punch, (which does not "egg" or "mushroom" metal) and tapped the basket in until I saw clean metal on the shaft.
Tapping the keyway and basket in helped "break it loose" from the shaft.
Then I shined that shaft up real good with fine emery cloth.
You can see the PB on it also.

I did use a puller to remove the basket, but I only used VERY LIGHT pressure. Two screwdrivers, as mentioned would also work, but I wanted an even pressure on each side.
The basket came off so easy, I almost could have pulled it off with my hands. Almost.

 

[Oak]

"Jeff in PA" has that puller for $22 + shipping if anyone is looking for one.

 

[bfleisch]

I drilled and tapped a couple of holes in the pulley and used a regular wheel puller, not 3 jaw to get mine off along with heat and PB Blaster. You can see the two holes in the pulley in the picture. It worked well and had no affect in damaging the pulley.

 

[bpientka]

Well not as pretty as the other removers but it did the job!

I didn’t have round pipe in the correct size so I used angle and some flat stock.

When I tightened up the remover the entire remover started to angle. One short tap with a hammer on the side pulling away and the pulley/basket popped free. All removed.

No damage to the pulley, the remover or the motor shaft.

Puller construction time 5 minutes!

 

[bpientka]

Another couple pictures

 

[hydroharry]

It worked!!!!! Great.

 

[bpientka]

Made some more progress. Flywheel off and engine received second bath with a scrub brush. Wanted to give it a good clean before I start opening it up. Flywheel side look pretty good with dry dust/dirt. Pulley side was oily with a good mix of dirt. Seal doesn’t look very good!

Will continue with disassembly and call machine shop after Labor Day.

 

[bpientka]

Ok I am feeling totally stupid! I went to remove the valves and while I got the valves out I couldn’t seem to get the valve spring and caps out. I have rotated the engine so everything is as low as it gets. Seems like things catch on either the push rod or the valve guides. The photo below shows the spring mostly compressed but I tightened it even more and still wouldn’t come out. I actually had to adjust the valve nut to make more clearance to get the spring out.

Is that normal?

the

 

[jstich]

Ok I am feeling totally stupid! I went to remove the valves and while I got the valves out I couldn’t seem to get the valve spring and caps out. I have rotated the engine so everything is as low as it gets. Seems like things catch on either the push rod or the valve guides. The photo below shows the spring mostly compressed but I tightened it even more and still wouldn’t come out. I actually had to adjust the valve nut to make more clearance to get the spring out.

Is that normal?

the View attachment 140003

It is "normal" to take the cam out before the valves. The tappets will drop down and give plenty of space to get the springs out.