Wheel weight ?

[cubs4lifeofme]

Wha

ts up with these rear rims ?

 

[cubs4lifeofme]

 

[cubs4lifeofme]

 

[dschwandt]

I'm sure that's gonna work out just fine!!

 

[tkhoffman]

Home grown wheel weights?

 

[bmader]

Wheel weight's to allow duel's to be installed? Looks good to me.

 

[1811Cub]

Seen far worse than that for sure!

 

[mgonitzke]

Wheel weight's to allow duel's to be installed? Looks good to me.

How's he going to air up the tires?

 

[cubs4lifeofme]

What do you all prefer, Plastic around Cement or Steel ?

 

[mgonitzke]

Iron. The plastic coated concrete weights can be a big mess if the plastic cracks and then the concrete starts breaking apart.

 

[dfrisk]

I agree with MATT. Only IRON weights for me. I've got 2-3 sets on each Cub Cadet, and 2 & 3 sets on each FARMALL, they're 145# each weight, with hardware that's nearly 1500#. And I wish I had ten 75# or 100# IH front suitcase weights to add to the back of the Super H when needed to push snow when my concrete driveway is slick & icy.
I have seen some novel weight ideas from people who have access to plasma or laser cutters and various pieces of steel plate for FREE. Steel is actually heavier than iron for the same volume.

 

[John mitchell]

I like the IH steel weights. They were originally intended for the Farmall Cub front wheels. They bolt up perfectly on the IH Cub Cadet rear wheels. I put a set of the Super Garden tractor rear steel wheels that allowed me to use the 12.5 inch wide rear tires. I used the turf tread as my chains will lay flat and tight on the tires. I also put heavy duty inner tubes, filling those with -20 non toxic washer fluid. If memory serves me correctly. I used a Schaefer valve on managed to get around 6.5 gallons of fluid into each inner tube, which added up to about 52 lbs of unsparing weight, plus 25lbs per steel weight and an additional 12 lbs of weight per double link tire chain. All totaled that is right at (slightly more or less) 90 lbs of weight per rear wheel. I have zero traction problems plowing deep wet snow. Also, depending on if your Cub has external brakes or the internal brake. You can mount three weights per wheel.

 

[dfrisk]

Something I saw at Bluniers Plow Day #1 that I was really impressed with was a pair of FARMALL H/M/300/400/350/450 front wheel weights bolted onto a Cub Cadet rear wheel. Those FARMALL'S all had 3 mounting bolts for frt weights, but those weights had two sets of bolt holes, you used one set for one bolt, and other set of holes in the weights for the other bolt, gets you a 42# weight vs a 26# weight. The heavier weight sat on the outside edge of the rim, it would not set inside the rim like the 26# weight. NOW, those frt FARMALL weights I saw at Blunier's was the VERY FIRST front weights I'd ever seen, and I'd been around FARMALLS for years, the 42# frt weights are only slightly more common than the 26# weights, but they are increasing in price at astronomical rates like ALL IH weights are.
First pair of wheel weights I bought was about 1970. My Buddy and I went to a farm auction over by his farm. We're standing by the hayrack they were selling, and the guy held up one weight, I saw the other one on the rack. There wasn't a spec of paint on either weight, they had a thick coating of what I'd describe as "Hog Dust", a fine powdery dust that covers EVERYTHING inside a barn or shed where hogs live, or sleep, or otherwise inhabit. They looked exactly like the Deere weights, but when I wire brushed them and not a single spec of paint under the dust, I figured they were from sometime in the 1940's or '50's, I paid $5.50 for the pair. 1/2" carriage bolts and hex nuts at our local lumber yard were $6 for 4, and I had a quart of white enamel paint. Not sure what those weights were originally used on but I'm positive it wasn't a Deere #110, so wheel weights are just another thing Deere copied from someone else.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, was this the Cub with the 42# weights? I'll have to see if I have a larger resolution version of it.

 

[Robert Mazzaferro]

I agree that Iron wheel weights are the best. However, I did make some weight weights from concrete that added 50 lb's of weight on each wheel of the tractor. I used the plastic bag system to make the weights with a piece of PVC pipe cut length side for the air valve and 1/2" PVC pipe for the mounting holes. It's obvious they are not the best looking weights or vintage but they do work well. It was a real game changer for plowing snow & using the snow thrower. I just used a very loose mix, hit the tire all around with a hammer to get all the air pockets to come to the surface. Just another option.

 

[jstewart]

I've considered casting some concrete ones, a mostly sand mix with some extra portland should make a very strong, dense mix that would hold up well. Maybe even brush on a layer of epoxy resin once cured.

 

[Robert Mazzaferro]

If done the way I did it just add some foam packing padding around the inside of the steel wheel under the plastic bag. There must be a thin space on the bottom and around the inside of the wheel to get the concrete to come out. Also get some plastic around the wheel for concrete overflow above the top of the wheel. Without that padding you'll never get the concrete to come out. The wheel is the mold therefore, the concrete goes from the bottom of the wheel to around 1.5" higher than the top of the wheel. The concrete is around 8" thick, or more depending how much higher the concrete is above the wheel edge. My was 1.5" above the wheel top @ around 50lbs each. They weren't easy to mount on the wheel after they are heavy and clumsy.

 

[dfrisk]

JON - yes, concrete makes good cheap weights. Another suggestion, they use glass fibers to reinforce concrete now days, I'd add some to your mix to prevent cracking.
The alloy steel foundry I worked for had a steel automobile shredder part that was almost exactly the same size as the IH Cub frt wheel weights, except they had FIVE knotches for the valve stem, and they were heat-treated to 477-521 Brinnel hardness, meaning they were harder than drill bits, be really hard to drill mounting holes, would need a special drill that used ceramic cutting inserts.
I did manage to get a copy of the print for that part, and I had several good iron foundries making parts I bought, and had them do a quick and dirty quote on a wooden pattern for a low annual usage part plus casting prices for 20 and 50 pcs of the casting, and told them all I needed done to the casting was the gates & runners and the Risers removed, or broke off, I could grind them flush, and drill the 4 bolt holes and give them a quick paint job, either 483 yellow or 2150 red, or 935 white, Customer's choice. At the time the 26# IH weights were selling for $50 each was exactly what my castings were going to cost with a few dollars amortized into the price for the pattern. That project never moved past the quote.
I've seen the steel plate weights cut on a Lazer or acetylene torch burning table. Trying to find cheap steel plate is the problem there! SON had access to a 1/2" thk steel plate 4 ft by 8 ft, plus he has my old '96 F-250 to haul it. But handling that sheet would be hard, not impossible, just not easy, roughly 650#. Either of my loaders would lift it, but maneuvering the sheet into close quarters would be interesting. I'd also like some larger suitcase weights, something about the size & shape of the IH 70# suitcases. I do have a dozen 10# Midwest Super Cub suitcase weights for the front of my 982. But I need something for the back of my big Farmall's.

 

[jack casey]

JON - yes, concrete makes good cheap weights. Another suggestion, they use glass fibers to reinforce concrete now days, I'd add some to your mix to prevent cracking.
The alloy steel foundry I worked for had a steel automobile shredder part that was almost exactly the same size as the IH Cub frt wheel weights, except they had FIVE knotches for the valve stem, and they were heat-treated to 477-521 Brinnel hardness, meaning they were harder than drill bits, be really hard to drill mounting holes, would need a special drill that used ceramic cutting inserts.
I did manage to get a copy of the print for that part, and I had several good iron foundries making parts I bought, and had them do a quick and dirty quote on a wooden pattern for a low annual usage part plus casting prices for 20 and 50 pcs of the casting, and told them all I needed done to the casting was the gates & runners and the Risers removed, or broke off, I could grind them flush, and drill the 4 bolt holes and give them a quick paint job, either 483 yellow or 2150 red, or 935 white, Customer's choice. At the time the 26# IH weights were selling for $50 each was exactly what my castings were going to cost with a few dollars amortized into the price for the pattern. That project never moved past the quote.
I've seen the steel plate weights cut on a Lazer or acetylene torch burning table. Trying to find cheap steel plate is the problem there! SON had access to a 1/2" thk steel plate 4 ft by 8 ft, plus he has my old '96 F-250 to haul it. But handling that sheet would be hard, not impossible, just not easy, roughly 650#. Either of my loaders would lift it, but maneuvering the sheet into close quarters would be interesting. I'd also like some larger suitcase weights, something about the size & shape of the IH 70# suitcases. I do have a dozen 10# Midwest Super Cub suitcase weights for the front of my 982. But I need something for the back of my big Farmall's.

JON - yes, concrete makes good cheap weights. Another suggestion, they use glass fibers to reinforce concrete now days, I'd add some to your mix to prevent cracking.
The alloy steel foundry I worked for had a steel automobile shredder part that was almost exactly the same size as the IH Cub frt wheel weights, except they had FIVE knotches for the valve stem, and they were heat-treated to 477-521 Brinnel hardness, meaning they were harder than drill bits, be really hard to drill mounting holes, would need a special drill that used ceramic cutting inserts.
I did manage to get a copy of the print for that part, and I had several good iron foundries making parts I bought, and had them do a quick and dirty quote on a wooden pattern for a low annual usage part plus casting prices for 20 and 50 pcs of the casting, and told them all I needed done to the casting was the gates & runners and the Risers removed, or broke off, I could grind them flush, and drill the 4 bolt holes and give them a quick paint job, either 483 yellow or 2150 red, or 935 white, Customer's choice. At the time the 26# IH weights were selling for $50 each was exactly what my castings were going to cost with a few dollars amortized into the price for the pattern. That project never moved past the quote.
I've seen the steel plate weights cut on a Lazer or acetylene torch burning table. Trying to find cheap steel plate is the problem there! SON had access to a 1/2" thk steel plate 4 ft by 8 ft, plus he has my old '96 F-250 to haul it. But handling that sheet would be hard, not impossible, just not easy, roughly 650#. Either of my loaders would lift it, but maneuvering the sheet into close quarters would be interesting. I'd also like some larger suitcase weights, something about the size & shape of the IH 70# suitcases. I do have a dozen 10# Midwest Super Cub suitcase weights for the front of my 982. But I need something for the back of my big Farmall's.

I agree that Iron wheel weights are the best. However, I did make some weight weights from concrete that added 50 lb's of weight on each wheel of the tractor. I used the plastic bag system to make the weights with a piece of PVC pipe cut length side for the air valve and 1/2" PVC pipe for the mounting holes. It's obvious they are not the best looking weights or vintage but they do work well. It was a real game changer for plowing snow & using the snow thrower. I just used a very loose mix, hit the tire all around with a hammer to get all the air pockets to come to the surface. Just another option.
View attachment 152561View attachment 152562

My Cub 102 is my fourth and last tractor. Started with an abandoned '56 Jim Dandy, then two Electraks. All had dozer blades and were helped clearing snow by 160 lbs of back porch weight. Never wheel weights. Now, I don't know everything but what I see you guys doing with wheel weights, to me, does not compute. Sure, homemade weights have minimal cost versus store-bought but there's such a thing as quality of life. Them things are a p i t a to get off your tractor, never mind get back on. I used 10lb weights from a Marcy home gym with steel and bolts from HD to make a frame that stabbed into the rear of the tractors. Easey peasey off/on.

 

[jack casey]

My Cub 102 is my fourth and last tractor. Started with an abandoned '56 Jim Dandy, then two Electraks. All had dozer blades and were helped clearing snow by 160 lbs of back porch weight. Never wheel weights. Now, I don't know everything but what I see you guys doing with wheel weights, to me, does not compute. Sure, homemade weights have minimal cost versus store-bought but there's such a thing as quality of life. Them things are a p i t a to get off your tractor, never mind get back on. I used 10lb weights from a Marcy home gym with steel and bolts from HD to make a frame that stabbed into the rear of the tractors. Easey peasey off/on.

Cheers, Jack