What do I got, And how good is it ?

[jchamberlin]

Good to hear that you're making progress, Ian. Have you drained the oil? If the carburetor fails, the gas tank can empty into the crank case. Ask me how I know.. . .

 

[imwoodhouse]

Ha!
Yes, actually I drained the oil like substance from the crankcase last night. Filled up with some 10w30. It was suggested that I put a little Seafoam in the oil for a little bit. I thought as soon as she gets running, let it run and change after about 30-60 minutes. Sprayed some WD-40 in the cylinders to lubricate. Got starter put back on and she is spinning again! Got the fuel tank pulled off and cleaned up. Need to pick up some plugs tonight.

Question, the starter gear I put on is metal rather than the nylon. Will that damage the flywheel? I would hate to mess up the flywheel trying to save $35 on a new starter by using the wrong gear.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Hi, Ian. I'm pretty sure the metal gear won't hurt the starter ring gear. while looking up a starter for your tractor awhile back on fleabay, I noticed a metal starter gear that was not only used on Briggs engines however also on smaller automobile engines. There aren't that many gear configurations for a starter. Good to hear that you're making progress. The Briggs starter I have someplace has a metal gear on it. Did you clean that gunk off the side of the engine I see in the picture? And have you taken a look at the clutch yet? See if the small spring is broken. BTW if you need an exchange battery when you get a new battery let me know. I have a couple of spares.

 

[imwoodhouse]

So this is probably a stupid question, but does the fuel pump need primed or anything? Motor will crank, I have spark, but there is no fuel getting through the filter. Any way to test the pump? TIA!

 

[sblunier]

I assume that means you also have compression? Can feel pressure at each spark plug hole when cranking?

Briggs fuel pumps are internal to the carb...kind of a PITA if they loose prime.

Pour a teaspoon of gas right into the carb throat and see if it will fire (have fire extinguisher ready if it back fires on you....just in case).

Usually if they run for a minute or two they prime up ok, otherwise carb rebuild time.......not a bad job but more tedious than a Kohler.

 

[imwoodhouse]

Steve, I did NOT check compression. Thanks for reminding me. I will do the ol' tissue trick and see if we have compression. Thanks for the quick response.

 

[sblunier]

Pull a plug and stick your thumb over the hole......you know real quick!

You can also lay your palm over the carb throat and see if it pulls on it, but it will only tell you that one of the two jugs has compression, not both.

 

[imwoodhouse]

I have always just put a piece of tissue in the spark plug hole and watched for it to fly out. Never tried using your thumb. Isn't it a little bit of a reach getting the with your thumb on the cylinder?

 

[sblunier]

Ian,

You aren't trying to FEEL the piston......(OUCH, especially on the starter!).....you should feel the 80 psi of air pressure getting squirted out of the plug hole in a big rush.......if you feel a blast of pressurized air , you have some compression.....if not, stuck valve, broken rod..........

 

[imwoodhouse]

Oops, I said cylinder! Yeah, that would not feel so good! Going to check fuel lines, float and pump tonight (hopefully) depending on what the boss has planned for me.

 

[imwoodhouse]

Well, I think I found the problem.

Good thing is we have decent compression and fuel is flowing from tank through filter.

Problem is the carb.

Yuck!

I am going to order
https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-and-stratton/parts/694056/
and get er rebuilt

 

[sblunier]

Not too bad of a job to rebuild, but get the manual as the built in fuel pump can be a booger to put together......Little flaps and springs.....

 

[brhodes]

Ian,

If you do not have a Carb bath / cleaner This night be a consideration for you.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Berryman-Chem-Dip-Carburetor-and-Parts-Cleaner/17491945

Gunk has a product like this as well.

I've used the same chem dip for over 10 years. I've used it on carbs, hydraulic valves, pumps and more.
Just take all the gaskets and o-rings off just the metal goes in. clean all visible dirt corrosion off.
Soak it for a few hours (I've left part in over night at times) rinse with water, blow it off with the air hose. I then spray all the ports, needles and seats with a spray carb cleaner.

Comes out looking like new.


Bill

 

[brhodes]

Ian,

After looking at your pictures again you may find the corrosion has ate into the die-cast were the float hangs and/or where the needle valve seat screws in.

Use a little caution when taking the float pin out. But if it is that weak you would not likely want to reuse it.

Bill

 

[imwoodhouse]

Bill,
That is a pretty slick setup there. Price is good too! I will have to see if they have one at one of our local Walmarts. Good call on the float. I actually ordered a new one also. It was something like $10 and I figured that one was in pretty sad shape.

Does anyone have a good source for a Carb Rebuild manual? I looked in the manuals here and didn't find anything for the Briggs carb. Did some googling and didn't come up with anything too promising.

TIA

 

[mhomrighausen]

Ian W. I just sent you some information on where to get a manual for your engine.

 

[eford]

I have used the gunk gallon can of cleaner before with very good results. I just got a can of what I thought was same from Napa, but my parts guy swore against letting any part sit in for more than 15 minutes. I've know him for years and trust his judgement. I haven't used it yet, but I let stuff sit in gunk brand for days and no issue. This must be stronger, and I'll use with caution. Good luck!

 

[imwoodhouse]

Thanks for the input guys!

If anyone is interested, I found this manual online. 170 some pages, so I just printed the carb part.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ybHphbUNTQUNNR2s/edit?pref=2&pli=1

 

[mhomrighausen]

Ian W. How's things going for you? Any chance to look at the clutch yet? (footnote.... the guys won't laugh, I know but you should post a picture of the Ooopsie that you had while removing the front old tires. Great Safety Always Picture.)

 

[imwoodhouse]

Howdy guys! Sorry its been a while since I had any updates. Been super busy. Made 'progress' over the weekend. Here is what I have accomplished to date on the 582:
Tubes in front tires (story on that to follow)
Replaced the nylon starter gear
Rebuilt carb
Motor was kinda stuck, but worked it free
Checked compression
Checked spark - I used a inline light tester and the light was very weak
changed oil
I think that is it. So my 'progress' this weekend was getting the motor free. Previously it had a 'catch' after about 1.5 revolutions. I sprayed a little WD-40 in the plug holes and just worked it by hand until it was spinning with the starter at about the same speed as my 127. I am getting fuel in the inline filter and into the float, but still not running. I cranked it for a while and gave a couple snorts of carb cleaner to try to get er to fire, but no dice. When I checked the plugs, they were not fouled, and not wet. Did not smell like gas either. My guess is it is not getting fuel to the cylinders. Any tips on how to check that? Thoughts on if the weak light for spark may be problem? Thanks in advance!