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Weighted up the 100

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Bill Pelton IV

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jul 11, 2021
Messages
85
Location
Connecticut
Got some more weight and comparably better rubber on the back of the 100. Not sure what the weights are off of but it's odd they lack a valve stem slot. Ideally would like to find a pair of outer weights that fit down in the deep dish of the rim someday.
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Nice! I’ve not seen wheel weights made for the inside of the wheel. As I’m considering how to add ballast to the rear wheels on my model 100 for snow-pushing traction, this is one possibility I’d not previously known. Thanks!
 
Nice! I’ve not seen wheel weights made for the inside of the wheel. As I’m considering how to add ballast to the rear wheels on my model 100 for snow-pushing traction, this is one possibility I’d not previously known. Thanks!
The standard IH cub cadet wheel weights will actually go on the inside of the wheel if the Cub does not have external brakes
 
Looking good Bill!

What brand/model number/source are your new rear tires on your IH Cub Cadet 100?
 
Marty,
I've often wondered how do you go about assembling the weights on the inside on a spiffy paint job such as yours? Do you protect the paint, slide the weight on, install the wheel, and then bolt it up, or do you bolt the weight to the wheel first? (My wheels aren't getting any lighter these days.)
 
Marty,
I've often wondered how do you go about assembling the weights on the inside on a spiffy paint job such as yours? Do you protect the paint, slide the weight on, install the wheel, and then bolt it up, or do you bolt the weight to the wheel first? (My wheels aren't getting any lighter these days.)
I'd put them on the wheel first myself. I'm definitely also doing a stud conversion over using the lug bolts on anything I'm weighting up because getting a weighted wheel on and off with lug bolts sucks haha
 
Jim,
After the paint dries, I cut some yellow felt and glue it on the inside of the weights. This helps keep the paint from getting scratched when I bolt it to the rim. And yes, the weights go on the rim first. It would be very difficult to bolt some weights on the inside with the rim mounted on the tractor.
If you are talking about a "worker" tractor, or a tractor that is left outside, forget the felt. It is going to get scratched up anyway.
I keep my tractors inside out of the elements.

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I've actually had two sets of weights inside the wheels on my 72. No fenders, 3-point, or anything else in the way. First set of weights I bought look EXACTLY like the Deere 50# weights, except when I bought them in 1970 they had absolutely NO paint on them, and after cleaning them with a wire wheel brush in a drill there was still no sign of paint. They had a heavy layer of fine dust on them, over 1/8" thick, anybody whose seen stuff that sat in a barn or shed with lots of hogs for decades knows exactly what covered these weights. I used most of a quart of white implement enamel painting them. No center hole in them so have always been outside the wheel. Think I paid $10 for the pair of weights and $5.50 for the 4 carriage bolts, nuts, & washers. There is absolutely NO WAY they are Deere weights, the Deere weights are just another thing Deere copied. I figure those weights date back to the 1940's or 1950's. No sign of any kind of numbers or letters to identify them.
 

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