Wanting to do engine oil & filter? change for my October 1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 with 10hp Kohler engine.

[awoloch]

Greetings Friends & Experts on the IH Cub Cadet 100 with 10hp Kohler engine.

I would like to do an engine oil & engine oil filter??? change for my October 1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 Lawn & Garden Tractor with its original 10hp Kohler engine.

I have a reprinted copy of the International Operator's Manual for International Cub Cadet 70 and 100 Tractors (published August 1, 1963).

Pages 11 - 13 of this Manual explains how to change the engine oil but does not identify or discuss replacing a disposable engine oil filter. Does my trractor & engine predate the advent of disposable engine oil ilters? Is there another way of filtering the engine oil that should be maintained?

For summer use, the Manual calls for 5 pints of SAE-30 engine oil changed after every 30 hours of operation. Pages 12-13 say the used engine oil is drained by removing engine oil drain plug (3).

I also want to change the transmission oil, and transmission oil filter if it exists.

Pages 11 - 13 of the Manual indicate 3.5 quarts of IH Hy-Tran Fluid or SAE-30 engine oil changed yearly and filled every 100 hours. What is the recommended transmission oil available for this tractor now?

Pages 11 - 13 of the Manual indicate the used transmission oil is drained out through drain plug (5) (shown on page 12) and new transmiission oil is installed via transmission oil level and filler plug (4).

After that, I will grease all the zerk-like fittings I can find in the Manual and on the Tractor.

Please share your comments and recommendations for servicing the engine oil, engine oil filter (if it or something else exists), transmission oil, and transmission oil filter (if it or something else exists).

Thank you!

Sincerely,

Tony

Anthony N. Woloch
Colorado Springs, CO









.

 

[1250 owner]

Old cub cadets don't have oil filters even my 1978 cub doesn't have a oil filter.

 

[dschwandt]

The Cub non pressurized engines do not have oil filters.
Except for the hydro's and they have a hydraulic filter on the front of the transmission.
Straight 30 weight oil is fine for the transmission.
Also a good time to grease the front axle knuckles and pivot pin and clean the fuel sediment bowl.
Check and clean the spark plug as well.
These are very simple and straight forward machines to maintain.

 

[mgonitzke]

I would still recommend Hytran for the transaxle...the later gear drive tractors dropped SAE 30 motor oil from the recommended fluids for the transaxle. Most likely there was a reason for that. Hytran will cling better and deal with moisture intrusion better than motor oil will.

The current Kohler K-series owners manual is a free download from their website. If you follow the oil recommendations there for the engine, you will be fine.

 

[-CӞ]

Tony, did your Cub 100’s refurb & shop service in December 2021 include both engine oil & transmission oil changes?

(Thread 'For Sale: October 1964 International Harvester Cub Cadet 100 Lawn & Garden Tractor'
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/threads/...ster-cub-cadet-100-lawn-garden-tractor.11183/)

If so, is another transmission oil service warranted at this time? I guess it depends on if one prefers to go by oil age or operating hours between fluid service intervals.
The engine oil is easy to change, and certainly a good way to get more familiar with your Cub’s maintenance.

I sure enjoy my Cub 100.

Enjoy your shop time, Sir!
-CӞ

 

[awoloch]

Thank you all for your very helpful comments and suggestions! Thank you for confirming the IH Cub Cadet 100 Lawn & Garden Tractor (with its original 10hp Kohler engine) has no filters for the engine oil and transmission oil.

My 18hp October 1987 John Deere 318 Lawn & Garden Tractor has both filters which are easy & fun to personally service, along with other things like fuel filter, spark plugs (2), air filter, grease zerk fittings, etc.

Yes, among many other things, the engine oil and transmission oil on my IH Cub Cadet 100 were both changed in December 2021, about 2.5 years ago. Not many hours put on my IH Cub Cadet 100 Tractor since then, just enough time to warm it up and drive it around a little bit il, about 2-3 times a year.

I have a serious buyer for my JD 318 and would like to sell my IH Cub Cadet 100 as well. Hopefully, I will have no regrets about letting them both go. I have enjoyed them both over many years!.

 

[HKCooper44]

Thank you all for your very helpful comments and suggestions! Thank you for confirming the IH Cub Cadet 100 Lawn & Garden Tractor (with its original 10hp Kohler engine) has no filters for the engine oil and transmission oil.

My 18hp October 1987 John Deere 318 Lawn & Garden Tractor has both filters which are easy & fun to personally service, along with other things like fuel filter, spark plugs (2), air filter, grease zerk fittings, etc.

Yes, among many other things, the engine oil and transmission oil on my IH Cub Cadet 100 were both changed in December 2021, about 2.5 years ago. Not many hours put on my IH Cub Cadet 100 Tractor since then, just enough time to warm it up and drive it around a little bit il, about 2-3 times a year.

I have a serious buyer for my JD 318 and would like to sell my IH Cub Cadet 100 as well. Hopefully, I will have no regrets about letting them both go. I have enjoyed them both over many years!.

There's a fellow in western NY right now with a message saying "Cadet 100 wanted".

 

[-CӞ]

There's a fellow in western NY right now with a message saying "Cadet 100 wanted".

he’s darn right he does, too!

 

[awoloch]

Yesterday, I sold my awesome 1987 John Deere 318 Lawn & Garden Tractor, John Deere Model 80 Tilt Dump Cart, related parts & supplies to a very nice gentleman and his son who drove 7.5 hours (1-way) to buy these items.

They were very happy to acquire this equipment and I am certain this equipment will continue to be well taken care of. Sure, I have a bit of remorse about letting this equipment go - but it was time for them to go - leaving me with lots of great memories. This was the best result to put this equipment back to work with good and be well-maintained by very machine minded people. They now have two JD 318s and my friendship!

I still have my October 1964 International Cub Cadet 100 Lawn & Tractor for sale and hope it finds a good home too!

What am I going to do with all this empty garage space?

Stay tuned.

 

[awoloch]

good people!

 

[awoloch]

I am requesting help - please - from IH Cub Cadet 100 experts.

I have the following questions for doing a transmission oil change on my 60-year-old October 1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 Lawn & Garden Tractor, which as you know has a manual (3-forward-speeds + reverse) transmission:

1. Where exactly is the transmission oil drain plug and what does it look like?

2. What tool & what size tool is best for removing and fastening the transmission oil drain plug?

3. Do I need to remove the mower deck to access the transmission oil drain plug?
Pages 12 & 13 of my 08/01/1963 Operator's Manual indicate the "transmission oil drain plug" as Number (5)., but there is not an actual photo of it shown, just a side view schematic (page 11) and corresponding text (page 12).

3. Page 11 of the 08/01/1963 Operator's Manual says use 3.5 quarts of "IH Hy-Tran Fluid" for the transmission.
Is IH Hy-Tran Fluid still available or rebranded? If yes, where can it be obtained?

4. Can John Deere brand "Low Viscosity Hy-Gard Transmission & Hydraulic Oil" be safely used in place of IH Hy-Tran Fluid, without compromising performance, seals, etc.?

I easily removed the transmission oil level and filler plug (4) with a 3/8th-inch square head extension attached to my 3/8th-inch ratchet.

I easily removed what turned out to be a 3 to 4 inch bolt - with a 3/4" crescent wrench - in the general vicinity of the indicated transmission oil drain plug (5). However, that bolt did not appear to be the transmission oil drain plug, since no transmission oil drained out.

There is another fastener (with a 7/16" hex head) near the above 3 to 4 inch bolt (with 3/4th-inch hex head) and closer to the longitudinal axis of the the transmission. Is that the transmission oil drain plug or do I need to look elsewhere?

Thank you for your assistance!

Sincerely,

Anthony N. Woloch
Colorado Springs, CO

P.S.
I changed the engine oil with about 5 pints of O'Reilly's brand straight SAE-30 engine oil. The engine crankcase oil drain plug had a square head that seemed to require a 7/16th-inch crescent wrench but a metric 11mm crescent wrench worked even better for a tighter grip on the square head of the engine crankcase oil drain plug.

I also greased the zerk fittings (totaling 3) on the left & right side steering knuckles; and the steering gear housing which was the most difficult to see and reach with the mower deck still in place.

 

[mgonitzke]

1. Square head plug on the lower front of the reduction housing. Should be visible on the opposite side of where you are looking in IMG_3797 in your post above. Put back the bolt you took out...that isn't a drain plug. You are looking for a pipe plug with a square head.

2. Whatever wrench fits. It's a pipe plug...don't overthink this.

3. No, but if you want to put a drain pan under it to catch the used oil, you will need to remove the mower deck.

3.reprise Yes, it is still available from any New Holland, CaseIH, or Case Equipment dealer. I think the name and supplier changed, but if you ask one of those for Hytran you should get the current version.

4. Yes. Not sure it has the moisture encapsulating properties that Hytran does, but it will not harm the transmission, seals, etc.

 

[dschwandt]

I'd use the same OE 30 weight oil in the transmission as you used in the engine.
It's a gear drive machine. All m y GD's have OE 30 in them.
HY-tram will work as well if you want to spend the extra $$
That long bolt you took out probably has a torque spec as well.
Get yourself a socket set, Imperial, you will need it to wrench on this American equipment.
I can't remember last time I used a knuckle busting Crescent wrench.

 

[jack casey]

1. Square head plug on the lower front of the reduction housing. Should be visible on the opposite side of where you are looking in IMG_3797 in your post above. Put back the bolt you took out...that isn't a drain plug. You are looking for a pipe plug with a square head.

2. Whatever wrench fits. It's a pipe plug...don't overthink this.

3. No, but if you want to put a drain pan under it to catch the used oil, you will need to remove the mower deck.

3.reprise Yes, it is still available from any New Holland, CaseIH, or Case Equipment dealer. I think the name and supplier changed, but if you ask one of those for Hytran you should get the current version.

4. Yes. Not sure it has the moisture encapsulating properties that Hytran does, but it will not harm the transmission, seals, etc.

Anthony, with respect to Matt you need not remove the mower to change oil. I am Jack Casey, see my post "IH CC 982 Oil Drain Plug." Page down to my post to learn how to make oil change fun rather than nuisance. Cheers, Jack

 

[mgonitzke]

Anthony, with respect to Matt you need not remove the mower to change oil. I am Jack Casey, see my post "IH CC 982 Oil Drain Plug." Page down to my post to learn how to make oil change fun rather than nuisance. Cheers, Jack

He's asking about changing the oil in the transaxle, not the engine. I suppose a guy could stick the drain pan in from the back, but depending on the style, the oil may not hit it. The deck needs to be removed for maintenance occasionally anyway...

For how infrequently this needs to be done, not much sense putting a quick drain on the rearend, IMO. Nevermind that it will be very susceptible to damage in that location.

 

[jack casey]

He's asking about changing the oil in the transaxle, not the engine. I suppose a guy could stick the drain pan in from the back, but depending on the style, the oil may not hit it. The deck needs to be removed for maintenance occasionally anyway...

For how infrequently this needs to be done, not much sense putting a quick drain on the rearend, IMO. Nevermind that it will be very susceptible to damage in that location.

Oh yes, I was in a rush and read Anthony's post quickly. My CC102 is gone and I'm unsure about other mowers but my blades come off easily as I used to sharpen often. Have to lie on the shed floor but that's a trifle. Keep lotsa grease in mower spindles to avoid trouble and changed trans fluid by pushing a tray in from the axle rear. As for the engine oil I've seen advice on this site that it's best to remove the mower to do an oil change, OMG, that is a freakin' chore and so unnecessary. Mowing for almost 8 months means three changes, I'm an oil freak and change when it's dark brown and not black, and in a long life never burned an engine.
So much fun I can hardly stand it. Jack