"Upgrading" a 2072 alum rearend to cast iron?

[nbextermueller]

Do you mean the dip stick and not back plate?

I will check the oil the same way you check it in a regular 782. By filling it to the fill plug in the rear cover.

 

[lpalma]

So this trans is going in the 782 not the 2072?Or is it the 1862?

 

[nbextermueller]

sorry to confuse you Lewis, This Cast Iron rear end is going in the 2072.

It came out of an IH 782.

The pump is a late model pump from an 1862.

So this whole Frankenstein thing is definitely going in the 2072. But there will be no dip stick. So I will check the fluid the old fashion way by removing the fill plug in the rear cover.

 

[lpalma]

Ok, makes sense now.

 

[nbextermueller]

I also wanted to give an update here:

The new rear end is together and properly mounted. The only issue I had was that the front mounting holes on the CI rear end are slightly different than the Aluminum rear end. So it required bending the steel mounting tabs that go on the CI rear end so the holes lined up. I didn't want to put any more holes or extend any holes in the frame. They were only like 1/4" off.

But it looks great. Everything else went in just as it should. Then... I can't get my solenoid to work. Funny how things break just sitting there. It turns over when I cross it a screw driver, So Either I can't get it to ground properly or it's bad. I'm just going to put a new one on. Then it off to the races...

Pictures soon

 

[mmasheris]

Maybe a safety switch is bad

 

[nbextermueller]

Turns out the power issue was a badly corroded wire and prong on the back of the key switch. Not sure how it happened just sitting. But whatever, that's fix now.

I fired right up, but I noticed the engine was moving too much. Turns out all the vibrations of the busted driveshaft loosened every singe engine mounting bolt and the bolts holding the plate the engine bolts to in the tractor.

Basically, gravity was the only thing keeping the engine in the tractor.

 

[nbextermueller]

So, fast forward a month.

To tighten the engine plate bolts. I had to completely remove the engine. I love the 82 series, but it seems like a poor design that I need to REMOVE the engine, so I can properly bolt it IN the tractor. I used actual crushed lock nuts (no nylocs) and split washers in an attempt to keep it tight more than a mowing season. I checked my 782 w/ the Mag 20 in it. It's been in there less than 2 years and it's completely loose as well.

But now the 2072 all back together and smooth as butter.

 

[nbextermueller]

Has anybody replaced the remote oil lines on a Mag18/20? Did you use OEM lines or use your stuff?

Both my Mag 20's have leaky lines. I want to replace them, but not sure where to start.

My inclination is to switch the adapter fittings to NPT-to-AN fittings and run -6 AN brained steel lines instead of the brittle hard steel and nylon wrapped lines.

Opinions?