trunion fun stuff/149

[gary noblit]

Thought i might share and help someone else..I read everything I could find on trunion repair(the springy thing)..new parts from CC spec. To begin with, the shaft DOES NOT come out of trans.It has to be repaired in place.(or take trans apart)..New part being very well machined was held in place and a cut line scribed on plate.Very carefully cut off bad part with 4" cutoff wheel.New part and cut part chamfered roughly 30 deg to weld properly.A corner was placed under new part to keep level and square,clamped of course.Tacked and rechecked fit,welded in place. oops, prior to welding all linkage was unhooked by removing 2 bolts from plate holding directional linkage and tied back. Then removing small snap ring allows removal of dir. plate..NO, I don't know part names,my first time at this..I miced inner bushing and shaft and found about .003 out of round..reassembly was easy part except adding a .010 shim behind snap ring did help firm up plate wobble..put all linkage on and snugged upper bolt in slot...fired it up and everything was fine,including neutral setting...pics show reason for repair and finished job....so much to learn , so little time..

 

[glippert]

Thought i might share and help someone else..I read everything I could find on trunion repair(the springy thing)..new parts from CC spec. To begin with, the shaft DOES NOT come out of trans.It has to be repaired in place.(or take trans apart)..New part being very well machined was held in place and a cut line scribed on plate.Very carefully cut off bad part with 4" cutoff wheel.New part and cut part chamfered roughly 30 deg to weld properly.A corner was placed under new part to keep level and square,clamped of course.Tacked and rechecked fit,welded in place. oops, prior to welding all linkage was unhooked by removing 2 bolts from plate holding directional linkage and tied back. Then removing small snap ring allows removal of dir. plate..NO, I don't know part names,my first time at this..I miced inner bushing and shaft and found about .003 out of round..reassembly was easy part except adding a .010 shim behind snap ring did help firm up plate wobble..put all linkage on and snugged upper bolt in slot...fired it up and everything was fine,including neutral setting...pics show reason for repair and finished job....so much to learn , so little time..

Nice job, Gary. That old one was REALLY worn bad - I bet the improvement is very noticeable. And, I agree, getting that shim behind the snap ring can be a real bugger.

 

[Jay Fetters]

I'm glad you posted this, my 1650 is gonna need this exact treatment very soon!!!

 

[gary noblit]

Jay, you're mechanical easy fix but...all the rear has to come off ,no other way to get to it..

 

[speterson]

It's been a few years but when I fixed my 1450 I just removed the spring and welded up the worn areas before filing them square. I used a couple of washers as shims. Probably not as nice as the kit but it has been working normally for 15 years now. Just another option for those who are going to weld in there anyway.

 

[mgonitzke]

Welding up the corners and filing them square is a lot faster than cutting the whole thing off and welding a repair piece on. Much less likely to damage the seal or anything internally, too.

 

[gary noblit]

Well gents , everything about Cubs is a learning curve. I "assumed" the plate holding the spring was hardened until I cut it off.No where in any reading did I find any comment about that point..

 

[mgonitzke]

It is not hardened on the IH tractors, but at some point the units supplied to MTD were. I have never had to fix a trunnion slot on an MTD-built 82 series.

Heat from welding would undo the heat treat anyway.