Stung by wasps, hit a stump, hydro gone :/ 1282

[bmcgraw]

HEy all....I have a cub cadet 1282 I call Candy.

I put her through some serious abuse....bushhoggin and such.

I have hit saplings, stumps, you name it....and she just stops dead, and the hydro stops also, usually no subsequent issues.

Just last week, my neighbor did not have a pto shaft long enough to hook his bush hog to my MF 165 diesel, so I thought, candy can handle this, and I will just go around the bigger saplings....I needed to clear the brush to get some winter seed out in a new pasture we are going to fence in for our goats.

So I am going along, and suddenly a demon bug, a wasp I know now, stings me in the ear....I flip and throw Candy into full hydro forward....that stump I had been judiciously avoiding square in front of me....I swear, I think the back tires came of the ground....I got ready to put it in reverse, turn the key, anything, and was stung successively more times...i freaked out and jumped ship, with my poor baby head against a stump.....

I returned about 45 seconds later, cursing the bug spirits, and to my despair, Candy would not go forward or backwards.....

Some things to note....

I took her apart a bit, and I noticed that the flywheel does not turn anymore when in forward or reverse, only neutral, and not as fast as I remeber since last time I had to fix a broken piece of metal that pushes the neutral safety switch.

I took off the rear plate, bought the wrong dang gasket, (the right ones coming- parts tree thinks a 1282 has a cast iron rear, they're wrong, its aluminum) and all the parts in the differential housing seem to move just fine.

The fluid level was good....not any gunk at all in there.

The wheels move barely, I assume this is normal, although I have no idea how to get this thing free moving, maybe by removing the two valve nuts on the top of the pump?

Most hydros have a by pass valve lever or something to disengage it....not sure if the hydro here has one or not.

When I really push the rod plate with the spring that connects to the pump to its max the tractor moves very slowly.....

gasket should be here tomorrow....catered a wedding saturday and made some money, found a 682 (YAY!) on CL being sold, trying to get my wife to understand how even if I fix mine, having two is better than one

Any help would be appreciated....

Is it normal for the flywheel to not move when the hydro is engaged?

The tractor always did creep forward in neutral, fast if you were going fast and then pushed the pedal....I have been stopping by bumping it into reverse while going forward to slow down and pushing the clutch pedal while going backwards, only way to stop....

It creeps forward sometimes when you turn the key to start, even with your foot on the clutch.

I have looked at a lot of the hydro related FAQs....didn't realize how freakin awesome those were....I am now thinking maybe I should clean and take out the valves...some solvent and compressed air?


Thanks
Take care

 

[sblunier]

Make sure you haven't sheared a drive line roll pin before you go any further....90% of the time "no move" hydros are sheared spirol pins in the drive shaft couplers.

Sounds like it needs a Neutral adjustment as well.....

 

[bmcgraw]

Currently googling what the mess those things you mention are.....I assume all that would be on what I call the flywheel? The one with the fan?

Thank you

 

[bmcgraw]

Ok, so yes....I did some work on the intake valve and head gasket a while ago, and when I spun the drive rod it turned the fan and the crankshaft....

Now when I spin the rod, it does nothing....I looked and this pin is sticking up and out. It feels sharp like it broke....

I assume this is the offending issue. How many pins are there? Not sure how to fix it, but at least I think I know what the problem is.

Of course, in typical fashion, I wasted a lot of time and a little money monkeying around with a perfectly good hydro.

Thank you again!

Any advice for removing and installing would be great...I am going to try to find this on partstree now.

 

[bmcgraw]

found the part number I believe: CUB 915-3000

its on the way....I guess now I can save up some more and get that 982 I really wanted with the rear pto next spring, just gotta convince the wife that Candy is broken again

Course, now if I get Candy rolling I can get a bush hog and stop abusing my poor GT.

 

[bpientka]

Would also suggest cleaning the screen on the engine. From your photo looks like some grass blocking things.

 

[bmcgraw]

ya, I need to do that....haven't taken that apart yet....I try to do only what is necessary....I have a hard time with the first rule of the Hippocratic Oath on occasion....

I am by no means a gear head, but in the last two years I have learned more than I could have imagined before....typically out of necessity.

 

[digger]

Brent M.
Just so you'll know!
Having looked up that part number on PT, they say it's 1/4 x 1".
Actually they say 14 x 1, LOL
Which is WRONG!!!!! Nothing unusual for PT, LOL

You need one that measures 1/4" x 1 3/8"

$2.85?????
Good grief!
I better raise my prices, LOL

 

[bmcgraw]

Where do you sell your parts Charlie, I could use someone who could save me the trouble of buying the wrong things.

I have found the K301 manual, and it is very helpful, but as far as the tractor in general, the only manual I could find is pretty useless except for telling you when to do things.

 

[digger]

That CC Specialties button at the top of the page.

You can go to just about any hardware or auto parts store and get spirol pins. NOT roll pins, SPIROL pins.

 

[nbextermueller]

And stop using Parts Tree and use the Cub Cadet parts look up next to the CC Specialties button. It actually knows what a Cub Cadet is.