Steering Wheel Removal

[dgunn]

I never mentioned sealed bearings and none of my numerous cubs even have them. As far as I know, they did not come with sealed bearings. I know the later models have a grease fitting on the inner side and I assume it is supposed to be lubed now an then

On my last purchase of front wheel bearings I bought sealed ones so I wouldn't have to pack them anymore. I guess time will tell on how they work out.

 

[digger]

I never mentioned sealed bearings and none of my numerous cubs even have them. As far as I know, they did not come with sealed bearings. I know the later models have a grease fitting on the inner side and I assume it is supposed to be lubed now an then.

Call me old school but repacking and servicing wheel bearings on cars was one of the very 1st thinks I learned as a kid messing with cars back in the day. Of course they were a different type of bearing altogether.

Do they even make a sealed bearing with an outside lip to keep them from sliding into the hub of a Cub wheel?

I looked at a "restored" 122 last week at an auction house just for the hell of it. New tires, new paint, nice seat that was sitting on 3 layers of 2X10. I could turn the steering wheel about 1/2 turn before any movement was seen at the wheels. Knelt down beside the front wheels and grabbed hold and was able to move the front of the tractor back and forth nearly 4 inches. This is why we need to maintain these machines on order to keep them in good working order. Imagine trying to mow a straight line with that rig.
BTW, I learned later it gaveled down at $350.

Yep they sure do.

 

[rfcampbell]

If the tractor was fairly well cared for they do come of that easy. Most that I have messed with take a bit more work, but that method has worked well for me, both the big hammer and air hammer variants.

hammering on the shaft [by hand]no matter how much upward pressure u use on the steering wheel cant be too good on the bearings/races in the gearbox But if the gearbox is removed unbolted off the frame its loose, would be best Of course, it depends how stuck the steering wheel is on the shaft

 

[rfcampbell]

On my last purchase of front wheel bearings I bought sealed ones so I wouldn't have to pack them anymore. I guess time will tell on how they work out.
[/QUOTE they look like they are sealed not just on the outside but also on the inside of the bearing which is good

 

[rfcampbell]

Soak it, sit on the tractor with upward pressure.. maybe ask a buddy.. Use/make this tool and smack it.
It can be found on-line.. I have Pulled many wheels with it.. Good luck!

I found a 6 inch allen bolt 5/8 fine thread used 2 nuts and made the same setup it did work but the dash tower with the steering column was off the cub so it was easier and not as hard on the bearings When its loose off the frame it at least has a place to go when u use a hammer

 

[dschwandt]

$13 will get you new bearings and races.
Charlie has 'em
Not a big deal if Ya screw em up removing them.
I usually keep a set on hand because I know I will be doing another Cub later next year

 

[rfcampbell]

$13 will get you new bearings and races.
Charlie has 'em
Not a big deal if Ya screw em up removing them.
I usually keep a set on hand because I know I will be doing another Cub later next year

and its possible u could break the casting too so, u have a new replacement for this to? of course not

 

[digger]

and its possible u could break the casting too so, u have a new replacement for this to? of course not

Over the years I've taken off more than 200 steering wheels and never hurt anything other than the wheels feelings cause it LOST!

 

[rfcampbell]

Over the years I've taken off more than 200 steering wheels and never hurt anything other than the wheels feelings cause it LOST! View attachment 136477

congrats but all it takes is just one

 

[digger]

congrats but all it takes is just one

SIGH!!!!!

 

[john.knutson]

I appreciate all the advice from everyone, I'll report back with my findings!

Until then we probably don't need to pick at each other, given we all know we have at least one thing in common

 

[rfcampbell]

SIGH!!!!!

@ digger, I hope u rolled your eyes while u ''sighed'' have u noticed I don't beat my chest or shout the loudest here about my experiences? is this a ''good ole boys'' club? I hope not , But u do it your way and I will do it my way as both ways work just sayin 3...2...1...

 

[mgonitzke]

This steering column this lower race came out of required a puller to remove the wheel after the bolt and BFH method failed to loosen it.

I suppose it's possible to break the steering box, but most likely only if it was already cracked. The bottom is a lot sturdier than the part at the top that retains the top race.

 

[john.knutson]

repacking and servicing wheel bearings on cars was one of the very 1st thinks I learned as a kid messing with cars back in the day

I've not previously worked with bearings, but I know my trailer is due for a repacking so it's time to learn.

Proof of my inexperience working with bearings:


Hammer + Impact Socket are not a replacement for a proper press. Looks like I'll be placing another parts order soon! I got the other ones on without issue by using some all thread and impact sockets.

 

[dschwandt]

The manual says to only shim, if needed, on the outer race only.
The wheel needs to turn freely. If, when you tighten the not when installing the wheel and the wheel noticeably drags, you need to shim between the edge of the washer and the outer race so you are not pressing on the inner race. Possibly even on both inner and outer bearings if the inner surface of the spindle is messed up in some way and/or worn causing pressure on the inner race when the bolt is tightened..
The bearing in that picture should not be an issue as long as it is squarely in the bore and the seal is not damaged or distorted.

 

[john.knutson]

The manual says to only shim, if needed, on the outer race only.
The wheel needs to turn freely. If, when you tighten the not when installing the wheel and the wheel noticeably drags, you need to shim between the edge of the washer and the outer race so you are not pressing on the inner race. Possibly even on both inner and outer bearings if the inner surface of the spindle is messed up in some way and/or worn causing pressure on the inner race when the bolt is tightened..
The bearing in that picture should not be an issue as long as it is squarely in the bore and the seal is not damaged or distorted.

Good to hear my bearing is (probably) OK, I will order up a set of spares to have on hand, but plan to leave that one as long as I can. Both wheela do need some shimming, planning to pick some shims up today if the hardware store carries them, else I will order from McMaster Carr.

 

[Dewey Tyler]

I am really struggling with removal of my 107's steering wheel.

I have tried both methods in Cub Cadet FAQ without any sign of progress. I am using PB Blaster, thinking I will try Kano Kroil next (not trying to start a war!).

Any tips folks have to offer? I have been hitting it with the pnuematic hammer for a couple seconds at a time, should I lay on it for longer?

I can post pictures if helpful, probably not much of interest to see. I am hoping to get the wheel off to reduce some some play in the steering as well as tighten the tension nut on my Hydrostatic Steering Linkage so that I don't have to hold the lever while I plow.

I just seen a video that used a bearing puller upside down to pull the steering wheel off. Can buy one fairly cheap at harbor freight. Link to video: . hope this helps.