Snow blade question: narrow frame to wide frame

[Dustin Wilson]

Hi all,

I have been seeing more narrow frame snow blades for sale and would like to get one before winter for my wide frame 1250. Would a narrow frame blade be easily modified to fit my wide frame?

 

[mgwin]

The blade part should work on either sub frame. You should be able to find a wide frame sub frame for a blade if you already have a NF blade.
The NF sub frame could be modified to fit, but it would take some doing. A lot of NF's do not have the quick attach feature, they just bolt on to the frame.

 

[Dustin Wilson]

I did a bit of searching and couldn't locate a wide frame subframe. Can someone point me to the place? Thanks!

 

[mgwin]

Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, etc. It may take a while, but eventually, one should show up. If you have a welder and some metal, you could fabricate one.

 

[mfrade]

I did a bit of searching and couldn't locate a wide frame subframe. Can someone point me to the place? Thanks!

Have you tried our sponsors? The colorful boxes bear the top of the page..

I'd suggest R F Houtz = here Cub Cadet Used Parts

 

[PACub100]

Dustin, where in MD are you located?... there's plenty of Cub salvage places here in Pa. Just FB marketplace search for "Cub parts" and expand your search area to include a comfortable distance...

 

[Dustin Wilson]

Hi guys, I'm just north of DC. I found one in PA I may be able to use from fb marketplace. It looks as though the mount has been reinforced, so still unsure. What do y'all think?

 

[PACub100]

Hi guys, I'm just north of DC. I found one in PA I may be able to use from fb marketplace. It looks as though the mount has been reinforced, so still unsure. What do y'all think?

I have no idea what kind of backyard engineering that is but I'd pass unless it's free...even then, I'd probably still pass.

 

[PACub100]

Just do a "mule drive" search on FB Marketplace - here you go, not too far away and for $50.

 

[mgwin]

I don't think the mule drive will work for a dozer/snow blade. That is for a mowing deck.
You can see the end of the dozer sub frame on the left of your pic.

 

[hydroharry]

Hi guys, I'm just north of DC. I found one in PA I may be able to use from fb marketplace. It looks as though the mount has been reinforced, so still unsure. What do y'all think?

Dustin - if I were you I'd hold off and just get a blade with the correct sub-frame. I don't disagree that it's possible to fabricate one but if you've never actually seen and had the correct one it's a real long shot that you'll make one that really works.

In the pictures of the one you just found the sub-frame has been reinforced for some reason and it looks terrible to me. If that sub-frame and blade had been mounted and used correctly it would not need that reinforcing.

Also, the blade in your pics doesn't show the lift rod. Narrow frame lift rods are approx. 2" longer than the wide frame lift rods. The narrow frame blade also has a slightly different lift rod bracket (it's bolted to that A-frame piece of the blade). It does NOT work on a wide frame tractor. It will hit the front of the tractor frame if you try to use it. Yes, you can fabricate a lift rod, and yes you can probably "bend" that lift rod bracket but I still recommend waiting and getting the correct blade with the correct lift bracket and lift rod.

If you attempt to fabricate the sub-frame, then you will also probably have to fabricate your own lift rod length, and modify the lift frame bracket. I just don't recommend attempting this. The snow/dozer blade for these tractors is a great tool. The correct blade for your 1250 is really quite easy to mount and attach (with a little experience). Fabricating something might get difficult to mount and then may not operate correctly with the tractor, and you could very easily end up bending your tractor frame, distorting your Quick Attach latch (making it difficult to attach your mowing deck, etc).

I strongly recommend getting the correct blade assembly.

Here's a diagram pic of the correct wide-frame sub-frame. You can see the 2 long bars are bent in and then curve up at the back. I have to say it's pretty hard to fabricate these with the correct curves, length and positioning.

I wish Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos, was around but he must be on vacation or something since he hasn't chimed in for quite some time. He's usually very good about posting photos to help out in these situation. I stole the one above from one of his posts from a few years ago.

I didn't find any other photos in the archives just doing a quick search so I copied these photos from eBay. This happens to be a 54" blade for a wide-frame like your 1250, which is really the same as a 42" just 6" longer at each end. You can't see the sub-frame details really well but it gives you a better idea of what the sub-frame looks like. It also has the correct lift rod and correct lift rod bracket for your 1250. If you look at this on eBay you'd see this same seller has a listing for a 42" blade which he says is in good shape but the sub-frame is bent. I would NOT agree. Yes, the sub-frame is bent to _ _ _ _ but the blade itself is also bent in the middle.

I used to live in Montgomery Cty Maryland area outside DC (Bethesda, Rockville, Gaithersburg). I'd say you really don't get much snow MOST of the time but there are those occasions when you do get 3 feet in one day, usually Feb. or March. It would be nice to have the correct blade available so you can attach it quickly to your tractor, install some chains and go to town moving the snow. I do NOT recommend the 54" blade. It may be fine to move light snow, 2-3" deep but if you have 6-8" or more it gets harder for the tractor to handle that much. It's just grabbing to much at once. Yes, the 54" is somewhat hard to find and considered somewhat rare, and some collectors like to have them, myself included. It took me a long time to find one. I thought I'd like it better than the 42" but boy was I wrong. It was just to much blade for my 1450. The 42" really works ideal with this size tractor (although I will say 44 or 46 may be just a little better but IH didn't make those).

That's my story (dissertation) and I'm sticking to it. (And by the way, if you drove to CT you could get the correct 42" blade with the correct lift rod from my son for $150, but as PACub100 said there are places in PA probably closer to you).

 

[mgwin]

Well said, Harry!
I agree about the 54" being too much. Angle the 42" blade, try to push wet snow, and see what happens. It will push the front of your tractor to one side. BTDT.

 

[PACub100]

I don't think the mule drive will work for a dozer/snow blade. That is for a mowing deck.
You can see the end of the dozer sub frame on the left of your pic.

Yeah, brain fart.... dunno what I was thinking

 

[Dustin Wilson]

Dustin - if I were you I'd hold off and just get a blade with the correct sub-frame. I don't disagree that it's possible to fabricate one but if you've never actually seen and had the correct one it's a real long shot that you'll make one that really works.

In the pictures of the one you just found the sub-frame has been reinforced for some reason and it looks terrible to me. If that sub-frame and blade had been mounted and used correctly it would not need that reinforcing.

Also, the blade in your pics doesn't show the lift rod. Narrow frame lift rods are approx. 2" longer than the wide frame lift rods. The narrow frame blade also has a slightly different lift rod bracket (it's bolted to that A-frame piece of the blade). It does NOT work on a wide frame tractor. It will hit the front of the tractor frame if you try to use it. Yes, you can fabricate a lift rod, and yes you can probably "bend" that lift rod bracket but I still recommend waiting and getting the correct blade with the correct lift bracket and lift rod.

If you attempt to fabricate the sub-frame, then you will also probably have to fabricate your own lift rod length, and modify the lift frame bracket. I just don't recommend attempting this. The snow/dozer blade for these tractors is a great tool. The correct blade for your 1250 is really quite easy to mount and attach (with a little experience). Fabricating something might get difficult to mount and then may not operate correctly with the tractor, and you could very easily end up bending your tractor frame, distorting your Quick Attach latch (making it difficult to attach your mowing deck, etc).

I strongly recommend getting the correct blade assembly.

Here's a diagram pic of the correct wide-frame sub-frame. You can see the 2 long bars are bent in and then curve up at the back. I have to say it's pretty hard to fabricate these with the correct curves, length and positioning.

View attachment 150227


I wish Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos, was around but he must be on vacation or something since he hasn't chimed in for quite some time. He's usually very good about posting photos to help out in these situation. I stole the one above from one of his posts from a few years ago.

I didn't find any other photos in the archives just doing a quick search so I copied these photos from eBay. This happens to be a 54" blade for a wide-frame like your 1250, which is really the same as a 42" just 6" longer at each end. You can't see the sub-frame details really well but it gives you a better idea of what the sub-frame looks like. It also has the correct lift rod and correct lift rod bracket for your 1250. If you look at this on eBay you'd see this same seller has a listing for a 42" blade which he says is in good shape but the sub-frame is bent. I would NOT agree. Yes, the sub-frame is bent to _ _ _ _ but the blade itself is also bent in the middle.
View attachment 150228
View attachment 150229

I used to live in Montgomery Cty Maryland area outside DC (Bethesda, Rockville, Gaithersburg). I'd say you really don't get much snow MOST of the time but there are those occasions when you do get 3 feet in one day, usually Feb. or March. It would be nice to have the correct blade available so you can attach it quickly to your tractor, install some chains and go to town moving the snow. I do NOT recommend the 54" blade. It may be fine to move light snow, 2-3" deep but if you have 6-8" or more it gets harder for the tractor to handle that much. It's just grabbing to much at once. Yes, the 54" is somewhat hard to find and considered somewhat rare, and some collectors like to have them, myself included. It took me a long time to find one. I thought I'd like it better than the 42" but boy was I wrong. It was just to much blade for my 1450. The 42" really works ideal with this size tractor (although I will say 44 or 46 may be just a little better but IH didn't make those).

That's my story (dissertation) and I'm sticking to it. (And by the way, if you drove to CT you could get the correct 42" blade with the correct lift rod from my son for $150, but as PACub100 said there are places in PA probably closer to you).

Wow, thanks so much for the detailed information, Harry! I will pass on that blade.

Small world in that I do live in Montgomery County (Silver Spring)!

I happened to find this one that appears as though it will work.

 

[hydroharry]

Wow, thanks so much for the detailed information, Harry! I will pass on that blade.

Small world in that I do live in Montgomery County (Silver Spring)!

I happened to find this one that appears as though it will work.

Well Dustin - that blade has the correct sub-frame for your 1250 and best I can tell is probably in pretty good shape but can't tell very much from just one pic. Don't see the springs but assume they are on the blade. Looks like it has surface rust that would clean up pretty easily to be painted. The skidders (or at least the one I can see) appear to be something made up by the PO. That's something you'll have to try out and see how they work for you, and really depend on the surface you'll be using it against. Can't see the cutting edge either. You may be able to just flip the edge over to provide a new edge or you may have to replace. More pics of the blade after you get it would be helpful so we can advise you better. Do you have hydraulic lift on your 1250?

Small world yes, I lived in Aspen Hill for awhile close to the Library.

 

[Dustin Wilson]

Very useful information. Leaving to pick it up soon. I'll post pics this weekend. As of now, I have manual lift. It sounds as though I'll need the helper spring for the blade, is that right?

 

[mgwin]

You sure found one fast! And it's not even snowing yet! Yes, the spring assist will be a big help.

Harry,
Can't you see that spring? Do you have your glasses on?

 

[Dustin Wilson]

Okay, I just got back from Manheim, PA and I have a blade. Pics below!

 

[hydroharry]

Hey Dustin - glad you got the blade. To me it doesn't look to bad, but I always like to tear them apart and make sure everything is in good condition and working order, and then I'd strip it down to clean metal, prime and and paint it. It will operate much better.

I don't know if you found the Manuals section on the Forum yet but if not you can start with the main page, scroll down and section the Forum section, then scroll down to the CC Manuals and select it. That will take you to a link outside the Forum provided by Cub Cadet Specialties. Once you're on that page you can select Blades & Plows and it takes you to a list of these various items. In your case I prefer the manual I'm linking here:

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Front 42 & 54 Blade Operatorsll Manual.pdf
The reason I like this one is that it has several illustrations for your Quiet Line 1250. It also shows you have to attach the springs (if you happen to completely dis-assemble the blade. Assuming you do you need to be really careful removing the springs since there is an enormous amount of tension on them when installed. And you have to overcome this same tension when you re-install them.

In my view it's really best to dis-assemble and inspect your blade rather than just use it. There's a small spring on the angling locking lever that you can't really see unless you look inside the A-frame. There is also a small spring on the Trip Locking lever. You really want to make sure both of these springs are in good working order. I actually preferred to replace them. I don't know if CC Specialties has them but you could also likely find something similar at a good hardware store (although you may have to cut off part of it). Also when you dis-assemble you can make sure the holes are not wallowed (at least not to much) where the angling locking pin fits. And you'll want to coat the big steel plate on the bottom of the A-frame section and the top of the angling base where it rides. Nothing worse than trying to adjust the angle of the blade out in a snow storm and it just wants to stick in place. Also, you can make sure the cutting edge is in good shape, reverse it if you have to so you have a nice edge, or you may have to replace it. The original ones are kinda thin steel and original replacements are not to expensive (or didn't use to be). Some guys like to get go with a thicker steel maybe 3/8" but I'm not sure it doesn't wear just as fast. Now, working over the skidders can be kinda difficult. You might have to heat them up in order to remove them since they tend to really rust in place.

You can always come back here to the Forum if you run into any issues or with any questions. We're always glad to help.

Also, I just noticed the lift rod that came with your blade appears to be 2 parts welded together. It probably works ok and was most likely done that way so the blade would raise higher. You'll have to check it once you install the blade on your tractor. The blades usually only raise about 4" off the ground at best. A shorter lift rod will raise it higher but doing this also means the blade will not drop past level as much and you may have an issue on uneven ground, or a driveway with a dip, etc. Just something you'll probably want to check into.

Also, you asked about the spring assist. I see Marty said it will be a big help and I don't disagree but I also don't think you really need one for a blade say if you're only using it to remove snow and you don't have to much of a driveway. Assuming you can find a spring assist for your wide frame tractor (yes one style is for Narrow Frames and a different style is for Wide Frames and I think the Wide Frame version is harder to find in my experience). They are adjustable and can be set to really help when you raise your armstrong lift handle, You'll probably have to readjust it when you switch back to your mowing deck.

So, my recommendation is to make sure the blade is in good working order, cleaned up and painted. I say this in case you have to replace any of the parts and run into some costs you didn't expect. Also, you didn't mention any tire chains or wheel weights for your tractor. I'd strongly recommend both for removing snow. Otherwise you'll likely be spinning your tires and wearing'em out. After all this you might want to look into a spring assist.

(sorry this is so long. I'm slipping back to my old ways and just enjoy this stuff).

 

[PACub100]