sharing a trick(?) to remove speed handle

[gary noblit]

I have a 129 that I probably shouldn't have believed p.o. The clutch was shot the dash is cracked and all of mowing controls and linkage has been removed( that I was aware of)...So first thought was to put an elec. clutch on but how does one drill and tap a crank without removing from engine? Note small drill press clamped in place did a fine job ,There are 4 7/16 bolt holes in block. Sets in the frame nicely...To remove dash,the speed control and steering wheel have to come off.I tried many methods,none moved it.The control handle is alum.I drilled a hole from top down to steel shaft,At the point in about 6 hrs PB did the job of loosening up corrosion enough . I used a pickle fork type tie rod tool and it came off They are splined,there was a set screw in it originally ,it was gone. Splined alum on steel has just got to corrode..The hole can be threaded so it will be covered.....The steering wheel has not budged with PB and a puller after 2 weeks soak....."never give up"

 

[kmcconaughey]

Another trick to remove the speed control handle is to hit it with a hammer, effectively driving it farther on, to break it loose before you try to pry it up. Probably a good idea to protect it with a block of wood. On my #2 125 the splines were so worn that it wouldn't stay tight, so I drilled down through the handle into the shaft and then tapped the shaft so I hold it on with a screw. It's ugly but it works great, it hasn't loosened up since I did it over ten years ago.

 

[gary noblit]

Kraig, thanks for the input. I'm fairly new to old cubs so everything is a learning curve..I would have never guessed that the handle was splined.

 

[mgonitzke]

You are going to need something to keep the armature of the clutch from spinning.

 

[jdrong]

You are going to need something to keep the armature of the clutch from spinning.

My first thought too. This is going to be interesting. Hopefully I will learn something new.

 

[gchunnett]

Hello Gary,
New Years eve greeting all round !!
Yes, please document ( Photos and text) your progress on fitting an electric PTO clutch, I see you fitted the large Starter/Generator pully at the back as it should be, so can this sequence of securing things to the front of the crank be nicely explained please, its also been on my mind but not tried to yet. make and model of PTO ( i.e. off what der you scavenge the electric PTO)
Good luck

 

[gary noblit]

Matt,you just can't see the holder in pic for the clutch.It's fab and underneath using the block 7/16 holes to mount it..I'll take a pic Sat. and put clutch model on For Gordon...My shaft is 1" that matters most. I used shim washers the size of bearing to keep clutch from rubbing on belt pulley. The pulley is original with serrations for clutch cut off on lathe. So I'll show you next year !!! Sincerely hope all of you realize your blessings of being an American and have a very great new year!!!!

 

[gary noblit]

First off NO disrespect to those of you in another country.I forget the reach of this computer....Gordon,the clutches I have came off blown engines ?? no idea whose but probably Kohler "courage" engines in 18-20 hp range.Some clutches it is easy to change internal bearings,some not. This one is a Warner 52191-tg2000 with 1" center (also keyed inside)...I drilled the engine shaft and tapped to 3/8 16 and used a grade 5 bolt to hold.I drilled into shaft about 1 3/4 "....Matt ,hope the pic is good enough, the bracket to hold clutch in place is 1 3/4x1/4 angle . I cut a piece of same and bolted 2 places then welded a small upright to catch clutch frame..These bolts have to come out to change s/g belt. I'm quite sure it is sturdy enough to handle the vibration of an old Kohler. This was needed because the 7/16 bolts won't clear s/g pulley.....I don't pretend to be an engineer,I'm a cut and fit person.An idea gets stuck and I have to prove it to myself...Most of the time it comes out ok but occasionaly my ideas don't work because of not enough fore thought......My new year started right ,The steering wheel popped loose this morn. So the dash can be removed and repaired or replaced..I'm considering a metal replacement,Fiberglass just makes me angry....Happy to answer any questions ,just trying to share ideas...

 

[dfrisk]

GARY - The old 129 I fixed up 30+ years ago was really beat up, the prior owner's cobbled up repairs resulted in several times more repairs needing to be done. Like the big conveyor belting used as hood hinge, the tarp straps holding the hood down were O-K until the hood started cutting through the fiberglass instrument panel surround. I found exactly what I needed in the autobody repair section of my local Blain's Farm & Fleet, a fiberglass boat repair kit! Everything needed in a quart paint can, pint of filler, half pint of hardener, 2 ft by 2 ft piece of fiberglass mesh and INSTRUCTIONS. After a coat of paint and some aluminum 1"x1/8" strip reinforcing it held up great for 20 years. I never tried installing an electric clutch on a tractor with a dry type clutch. My 982 has two elec clutches, front & rear pto, Zero turn has a REALLY heavy-duty one. I installed a dry clutch off a 147 engine I bought on my home-made lawn vac. Works great! I ran the vac for years with a home-made belt tightener clutch.

 

[gary noblit]

Dennis, Repair may be feasible with alum. backing.Thanks for the thought..

 

[Ken Black]

how far in the clutch does the crank go ? it looks like the front belt pully hanging out from crank. seems thats where all the support would be needed.

 

[gary noblit]

Ken, Mine goes on about 2"or so. but that doesn't mean all clutches are the same. Perhaps I'm wrong but I'm comfortable that it's on far enough. It is a 1" crankshaft. The mechanical clutch wasn't much farther on and is supported by main bearing...It is now quite cold here so progress will be very slow....

 

[Ken Black]

Ken, Mine goes on about 2"or so. but that doesn't mean all clutches are the same. Perhaps I'm wrong but I'm comfortable that it's on far enough. It is a 1" crankshaft. The mechanical clutch wasn't much farther on and is supported by main bearing...It is now quite cold here so progress will be very slow....

ill have to check my junk box. i have one off a mtd cub was on a v twin. who knows
cold hahha its zero here. my cubbby all frozze up. no snow blowning for it. so yep i understand on the cold.

 

[gary noblit]

Ken, almost zero here but the wood stove in garage takes a few hrs to get it up to 50.I work(repair ) on many types of mowers and I never scrap a good clutch.My experience ,Warners seem to hold up well...Those "courage" engines were in many types of mowers...good luck on your search..

 

[gary noblit]

Dennis, Repair may be feasible with alum. backing.Thanks for the thought..

Dennis. your inspiration caused me to do serious repair on my 129 dash. A little different than yours..I cut thin alum.(1/16?) into 1 1/2 wide strips.Cleaned all surfaces very well and used j-b weld to hold alum to dash top and sides on the inside (just the front), left a lip of about 1/2" sticking out to compare with pieces broken off. Then covered the lip with body filler.Then sanded back to what I hope is the right shape..Those original lips were broken off except for 3" on one side . I'm thinking it would have been easier to make the dash out of a nice hardwood....

 

[jkoenig]

I'm thinking it would have been easier to make the dash out of a nice hardwood....

LOL!

I can relate. I’ve been thinking about making a hood ornament from a nice hardwood to replace the deck board hood ornament that came with it.

 

[gary noblit]

LOL!

I can relate. I’ve been thinking about making a hood ornament from a nice hardwood to replace the deck board hood ornament that came with it.

Jim, I refurbed a 122 and mounted l.e.d. head lights in a walnut board ...Nobody else said wow..but I like it'''