saving a few dollars

[gary noblit]

I was reminded how frustrated I get at the cost of stamped parts by reading a member looking for a gas cap.I've been doing this for many yrs.No problems have shown..In ref. to idler pulleys...Place pulley in a vise and With a 4" cutoff wheel cut notches about every 3/8 " around outside of lip that holds bearing in from the center out. With a 1/4" tapered point punch lip back until it just clears bearing going all the way around.. Turn pulley over and tap old bearing out.If the bearing comes apart you might have to do 2 notches on the backside to be able to drive the old race out..Clean up inside and tap new bearing in place.Using punch again, drive the pieces back over the bearing.Then turn over on large socket or piece of steel and tap firmly with hammer around the edge of cuts...Bearing changed...savings ave. #10 to $15 per pulley.At my local auto parts a 203 bearing is less than $5. Hope this helps someone...

 

[kashaver]

I usually just drill out the spot welds, put in a new bearing and use #10 screws and nuts with loctite to hold the halves back together.

 

[gary noblit]

We are all capable of learning from others...great idea..I'll have to try that..thanks Kevin

 

[jdrong]

I usually just drill out the spot welds, put in a new bearing and use #10 screws and nuts with loctite to hold the halves back together.

I also just drilled the spot welds, but used allen heads screws with nylock lock nuts. That is working well for me, and would do the same again if the need arises.

 

[digger]

 

[gary noblit]

oh my heavens(grandma said) I wouldn't think of doing that to gold plated cub parts only to lesser quality mowers....

 

[hydroharry]

We all likely have some Scottish (thrifty) blood in us and use some of our own stuff instead of following the CCC Motto to "use the parts it was born with".

I've never replaced this bearing in an idler pulley but wondered about it until now. Hope some of you can provide some pics of the process of drilling the spot welds and then using screws. My head isn't allowing me to visualize this process.

As for "saving a few dollars" (i.e. title of this thread), I tend to go for a Rotary air filter rather than what I think is an expensive Kohler brand. I do like to use Kohler brand points, just because when it comes to a mechanical part like this I'm inclined to think Kohler is best. I'm also a fan of the Champion H10-C plug. Just another item "it was born with", I know Charlie is a big fan and has proof the Autolite 216 is superior but, I just like the Champions (maybe it's the colors that wins me over).

Are there any other things you guys use of do to save a few bucks?

 

[Ron Armbruster]

Best thing I have found is buy a Cub Cadet. We stopped screwing around and abandoned every other brand. My new to me 149 has a bigger deck, less bog down under heavy mowing and most importantly I can drag my kid's mower while mowing his yard. He buys a new to him tractor every couple of years. After seeing this 149 he wants a Cub. That will save him money. Probably cost me money. Darn kids. Save money don't have kids!!!

 

[gary noblit]

Harry, probably the thing that saves me the most time(time is money) is a battery powered driver.I've used one down to nothing as in worn out.They can be 3/8 or 1/2 .It actually amazes me how much quicker it is than a rachet.Occasionally I will strip a mower that's not worth repairing.The front stamped axle makes a great base for a yard trailer.I save all linkage rods,they have many purposes .. I made 2 deck hangers for a 1320 cub from such rods...I just call it repurposing and do it often....I get just a little bent on the price of some products that take little to mfg.....

 

[hydroharry]

Gary - I wasn't talking about tools and such. I meant how to save money on Cub parts themselves. Early on I was a fan of using off-brand paint, then I discovered a dealer that sold the real stuff for a reasonable price. The price is now about double what it was back when I discovered that dealer. And then there is Hy-Tran... I tried some other stuff but also learned thru this Forum that the real stuff is the best and there are places to get it at a fair price. (I wonder if Charlie has it in stock again)

 

[gary noblit]

Harry,sorry I can't help on parts.I've only got 2 cubs(working on 3 more) so I'm not chasing parts for them yet.I understand the price double effect.Officially I retired and certainly didn't expect prices to change so fast.OUCH !! A great deal of liquids have changed because of regulations ,Ex lead based anything and lot of chemicals . There's a lot of used cubs for sale on facebook but the majority are runners not parts machines...have a good Thanksgiving!!

 

[digger]

Wait a month or 2 and everyone is going to find out EXACTLY how many old Cub parts are going BYE BYE! I know of 197 IH part numbered parts right now and that number is going to triple real soon!

 

[gary noblit]

Digger, you kinda left the door half open.Are you suggesting many old parts will no longer be available from dealers??

 

[digger]

Digger, you kinda left the door half open.Are you suggesting many old parts will no longer be available from dealers??

I left no door half open, I flat out said what's already here and what's to come.

Try finding a tiller belt for a WF or QL as one example!

2 months ago, Cub had 63 on hand, I bought them all and now those are gone as well.

 

[hydroharry]

Charlie - what happened to all the 169 mufflers you had made? Are you getting any more made?

 

[digger]

Charlie - what happened to all the 169 mufflers you had made? Are you getting any more made?

I had 200 made and sold them all.
And no I I won't have any more made, it took 4 years to sell the ones I had.

 

[lelder]

Here's a idler waiting on a bearing, needs different one than what I had, but ones I replaced 20 years ago still working so dont need.

 

[gary noblit]

I guess I'll stop doing it the hard way by cutting it apart.... thanks for the pic

 

[bpientka]

Charlie, thanks for sharing. Manufacturers just stop supporting older parts. I have experienced this with snowmobiles, atv’s and even newer Chevy trucks. Thanks for all that you do tracking down these parts for us to keep our machines running.

 

[mkinsey]

I was reminded how frustrated I get at the cost of stamped parts by reading a member looking for a gas cap.I've been doing this for many yrs.No problems have shown..In ref. to idler pulleys...Place pulley in a vise and With a 4" cutoff wheel cut notches about every 3/8 " around outside of lip that holds bearing in from the center out. With a 1/4" tapered point punch lip back until it just clears bearing going all the way around.. Turn pulley over and tap old bearing out.If the bearing comes apart you might have to do 2 notches on the backside to be able to drive the old race out..Clean up inside and tap new bearing in place.Using punch again, drive the pieces back over the bearing.Then turn over on large socket or piece of steel and tap firmly with hammer around the edge of cuts...Bearing changed...savings ave. #10 to $15 per pulley.At my local auto parts a 203 bearing is less than $5. Hope this helps someone...

gary when i searched for a 203 bearing i found 2 - which would be the correct one? 203KRR2 or 6203-2RS