Remove and Replace Drive Shaft on 127 Cub Cadet

[rbute]

I am having a difficult time removing the drive shaft from a 127 Cub Cadet. I've never done this before. I have a new shaft as the old one the pin keeps falling out. Does anyone have some step by step instructions on how to do this?

 

[digger]

I am having a difficult time removing the drive shaft from a 127 Cub Cadet. I've never done this before. I have a new shaft as the old one the pin keeps falling out. Does anyone have some step by step instructions on how to do this?

The Service manual helps a lot.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x6-7 Service Manual.pdf
Unbolt the engine and slide it forward a little and everything will be self explanatory.

 

[mgallas]

You can install a stainless nut, bolt and lock washer if your hole is worn and pin fails out.

 

[digger]

You can install a stainless nut, bolt and lock washer if your hole is worn and pin fails out.

Or put an oversized pin in.

 

[dschwandt]

A bolt and washer will not last long I'm afraid and only be a temporary fix at best and may even exacerbate the issue further by wallowing out the holes on the shaft and coupler even more.
In that case, the only correct repair would be a new shaft, coupler and pin.
Are you sure your pin is a SPIROL pin and NOT a split pin??

 

[rbute]

I purchased a new shaft, coupler, and pin. The new shaft did not come with fan. The cooling fan does want to come of the old shaft. Is this fan necessary? I'm only planning to use the tractor occasionally for blowing snow. The picture is of the old shaft and fan. The new drive shaft is the one I am holding.

 

[mgallas]

Tons of these tractors have the fan blades cracked off and function in the summer months cutting grass weekly. My humbled opinion is that you will be ok in cold weather with snow and ice.
These hydros are tuff units...
My restore side says.. you have it apart. Try and do it right. Find a fan cheap in case this one breaks during removal, you’ll probably never have the shaft out again!! Good luck

 

[rfcampbell]

I purchased a new shaft, coupler, and pin. The new shaft did not come with fan. The cooling fan does want to come of the old shaft. Is this fan necessary? I'm only planning to use the tractor occasionally for blowing snow. The picture is of the old shaft and fan. The new drive shaft is the one I am holding.

take the old shaft to a cut off abrasive chop saw cut off the shaft on the fan hub side that has the locking allen screw but leave about 1 inch extra shaft sticking out Also cut off the shaft on the other side that has the welded flat bar where the rubber flex washer? was bolted to Do this so u can get the flat bar out of the way Then use a socket or pipe larger then the shaft [like a 1/2 or 3/4] ID pipe held in a vise Now put the 1 inch protruding shaft in the pipe that is in the vice [the extra 1 inch of shaft acts as a guide for the shaft] allow the fan hub that has the allen screw to be supported on the pipe or socket Then use a hammer to drive the old shaft with a punch on top where the welded flat bar was The remaining shaft should go through the socket or pipe that's in the vice This should work saving your blade without bending it

 

[mfrade]

I agree with Mike G., there are lots of these units running with broken, damaged or completely missing fans in the heat of summer, you have an opportunity to fix it right. If you can get the old one off without damage, then try to re-install it on the new shaft. If you really need to run the tractor, you'll probably be ok without it for the winter. Rob Campbell offers a way to remove the fan, if you follow his instructions, I'd add that after cutting each side, use a file to remove any burrs from the cut before pushing the fan over them, I also like to use sand paper to remove and rust or old paint from the shaft exterior before pushing the fan off.

But in the end, you will need a fan imho, hope you can easily save and re-use the old one.

 

[gloughery]

A new fan from CCSpecialties (link above) is about $15. I replaced mine because the 50 year old fan was very brittle compared to the softer plastic on a new one. I also replaced the rubber flex coupler. Be sure to measure where the old fan is from the coupler end so you have an idea where to secure the new one. Fan location on the shaft matters and a lot of info can be found on this site. Oh, how does the flywheel cup look where those pins connect to the engine end? Mine was worn about 1/2” and made an “L” shape on both sides. Good luck, please post your progress to keep me motivated. I can’t do single stage snow throwing anymore (snow too heavy past few years) and so I use this time for tear down and asking Santa for Hy-Tran.

 

[kmcconaughey]

The fan on the Rob's 127 should be metal and far better than any of the plastic ones. It's definately worth saving and moving over to the new driveshaft.

 

[rfcampbell]

The fan on the Rob's 127 should be metal and far better than any of the plastic ones. It's definately worth saving and moving over to the new driveshaft.

I hate anything plastic when something metal can replace it I did notice cubs metal blade is a little smaller in diameter then the plastic blades but its nothing to worry about All my 149 cubs will have a metal fan blade on them not a plastic blade

 

[czuck]

I converted my 147 to the later rag joint coupler. No more worries about pins or the slot in the front coupler wearing.

 

[rfcampbell]

I converted my 147 to the later rag joint coupler. No more worries about pins or the slot in the front coupler wearing.

it takes many years and many hours running to wear a pin or hub Firstly many have been run 40 years had many different owners who bought the cub used and the pin or front coupler has never been replaced So last part a person sees or worries about is a worn out front coupler or pin A new front coupler and a new pin even a over sized pin or a new driveshaft will last decades

 

[rfcampbell]

You can install a stainless nut, bolt and lock washer if your hole is worn and pin fails out.

I did this several times using a grade 8 1/4 bolt and it kept shearing off the bolt after 30 min cutting grass

 

[rfcampbell]

A new fan from CCSpecialties (link above) is about $15. I replaced mine because the 50 year old fan was very brittle compared to the softer plastic on a new one. I also replaced the rubber flex coupler. Be sure to measure where the old fan is from the coupler end so you have an idea where to secure the new one. Fan location on the shaft matters and a lot of info can be found on this site. Oh, how does the flywheel cup look where those pins connect to the engine end? Mine was worn about 1/2” and made an “L” shape on both sides. Good luck, please post your progress to keep me motivated. I can’t do single stage snow throwing anymore (snow too heavy past few years) and so I use this time for tear down and asking Santa for Hy-Tran.
[/QUOTE I replaced 1 plastic blade on a 149 cub with a new plastic blade i noticed that with the steel snap ring that it requires to hold the blade to the shaft the blade kept creeping back towards the rubber coupler the snap ring does not hold the blade to the shaft very good So I measured where the best place the blade was supposed to sit on the shaft and drilled a hole in the shaft where the back of the blade would be at and drove the smallest roll pin they make through the hole and now the blade sits against the roll pin now cant move backwards on the shaft any more

 

[gloughery]

Maybe IH went to plastic blades later in production? Good to know, I’ll for sure replace mine when I fix that front cup problem. The K341 needs an overhaul anyway. Good points about the rag joint coupler vs replacing the OEM part. I haven’t researched this much stuff since my gray PB water pipe failed and I started running PEX!

 

[czuck]

I think the write up on how to do it was on this site some years ago and it was something I saved on my PC. Shaft alignment is more critical with the old setup.

 

[rfcampbell]

Maybe IH went to plastic blades later in production? Good to know, I’ll for sure replace mine when I fix that front cup problem. The K341 needs an overhaul anyway. Good points about the rag joint coupler vs replacing the OEM part. I haven’t researched this much stuff since my gray PB water pipe failed and I started running PEX!

the only cubs I have seen using the plastic blade was when they started the wide frame cubs Most narrow frame cubs I think used the metal fan blade They also used a fan guard that was metal protected the blade And I think a plastic fan blade is bigger than the oem metal fan blade and wont fit inside the fan guard of course, if u remove the fan guard a larger plastic fan blade will work

 

[C W Simon]

I am having a difficult time removing the drive shaft from a 127 Cub Cadet. I've never done this before. I have a new shaft as the old one the pin keeps falling out. Does anyone have some step by step instructions on how to do this?

Drive out pins in each end of shaft. I replaced with quarter inch #5 bolts and nylon insert lock nuts. Disconnect clutch rod. Mark or measure where nut was. Disconnect the part where this all hangs on. The whole shaft WILL slide out the right side right behind the generator. You DO NOT have to loosen the engine mount bolts. Done this numerous times. Replace clutch plate,maybe the pressure plates, thrust bearing, teaser spring, cup spacer AND the bushing on the end of the shaft where it fits into engine. New roll pins in shaft...suppose to use spiral pins. Only the dealer has these. I did not get new pressure plates...I resurfaced them by holding them on a stationary belt sander!