Rear PTO atachments

[pbell]

Jerry,
Yes the carrier is flipped in the Cub Cadet from what it is in the Farmall/International Cub. As you sit in the drivers seat, the Cub engine turns CCW and the engine in a cub Cadet turns CW. The PTO turns CCW on both the Cub and Cub Cadet because of the gear reduction/direction change on the front of the Cub Cadet transmission.

The PTO on the Cub turns at engine speed (1600 to 2000 RPM max, depending on the year of the tractor), the PTO on the Cub Cadet turns 514.2857 RPM at 3600 engine RPM due to the 7 to 1 reduction at the front of the transmision. The total reduction on an Original (between the different diameters of the clutch and drive pulleys and the gear reduction in front of the transmission) is about the same 7 to 1.

 

[kide]

Brendan:
Is that a Clausing (all I can see if the "ing") ??

 

[jmuncie]

Brendan,

You may already know about these, but if not it might do you some good.

http://www.hubcityinc.com/media/q.pdf

At the top of page Q-12 there's an internally splined sleeve (0332-00340) that you might be able to weld in to make your yokes. My cost on it $28.22 plus shipping. It's stocked in SD. If you've got a distributor to buy through you can probably do just as well.

There's also the spline adapter (0332-00355) that has already been mentioned on page Q-8. I didn't check pricing on it.

Apparently some Kubotas used the same PTO shaft, so your Kubota dealer may be a source for yokes.

Jerry

 

[bbrigham]

Jerry...I have seen that but, blew right over that page. Was looking for yokes and didn't see the splined sleeves. I will keep that in mind. The Kubota part #'s for the yoke I had here somewhere but in a cleaning the desk rage it must have been circular filed

Kendall.....Sure is, I know how to use it but no idea what the specs are...lol

Carry...Yep, you've seen that a few times. There doin pretty good. Doug just had a hip replaced so things goin a little slow for him.

 

[jmiesner]

I have a quick question. If I wanted to take a PTO out of a cub Farmall and put it into a Cub Cadet, what all would I need in order to make this happen? Thanks, Jeff

 

[digger]

Jeff M.
The manual.

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/pto1.pdf

 

[kide]

I spent a little time reading that .pdf....I wonder if the "large wooden block" in illustration 3 had an IH tool part number... Back in the day, FoMoCo always had a pet tool maker (KR Wilson and later KD Tools were a couple of them) that created those specialized tools. Thanks Charlie for bumping my memory

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, the output shaft is different. Note Brendan's post below where he has modified a Farmall Cub PTO to fit into a Cub Cadet, perhaps he'll post more detail on that for you.

Brendan...

Charlie,

 

[jott]

how much are you guys paying or going to pay for these rear ptos? I bought mine froma very ood Cub friend for $150 installed. anyone else who asked for one he wanted $220 not installed. Im jw...

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
I think the shaft on an Original is different than the Farmall Cub/Cub Cadet rear PTO. I believe that's what Brendan was making in his post below.

Jeff-
If you're going to be putting the PTO into a tall-tunnel narrow-frame tractor, (or possibly a wideframe tractor?) then the PTO engaging linkage is going to be different.

 

[bbrigham]

In the Tuesday, December 22, 2009 - 03:59 pm: post, the top pic is the input shaft out of my O. I don't have any of my measurements so I can't help ya there. The end of the input shaft towards the rear needs to have splines added. The first pic is where the bearing surface is being cut so that half of it is a nipple to press the splined part on. The second pic is the splines needed. That piece is cut off the F-Cub input shaft, it's only about an inch and a quarter long....off of a 3 or 4 foot shaft. The side of that stub(second pic)to the right already has a hole bored into it for a bushing so we went through that end with a smaller(couple sizes) bit. That smaller hole is where the nipple in the first pic will be pressed. Both parts were V'ed for weld penetration. The last pic is after they were Tig welded and the bearing surface turned down and emery cloth, it polished up pretty good. The pics look like they got too hot but it's just the way the camera made it look, the splines look worse but it's were I cleaned them with the wire wheel. If you go this route you'll want to take your time and measure everything repeatedly, if it's too short then the coupler will not be engaging enough spline. If it's too long you will not get the output shaft in correctly and will trash some bearings. You could double gasket the bearing housing on the rear cover if it's close. The output shaft from the F-Cub is a direct bolt in and if it's going into an O the engaging lever is also. Any questions just ask and I'll try to help.