John Wheeler
Well-known member
Is it worth it? Also, the pulley says 3 1/2” and the belt below it says for 3” pulley.
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QA-42A speed up pulley
- Thread starter John Wheeler
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If you have a 4 paddle thrower, yes it's worth it if you do it right. If not, don't mess with it.
John Wheeler
Well-known member
Looks good to me! I do have the four paddle. I also did the flapper mod and just did a new belt, chain, and both cogs. Changed the gear box lube, too! What a difference. Looks like I’m gettin a new pulley. Thanks 
I did the paddle and pulley mod on my four-paddle thrower. Definitely worth the effort and I highly recommend doing both.
John Wheeler
Well-known member
I’m ordering the pulley today!
attach rubber strips to the edges of the paddles to reduce the gap between the paddles and the housing near the chute. Plenty of youtube videos on it. Was trying to do that on my CW36 on the 100 but my cheap bits weren't getting thru that metal...
Got a picture of the 4 paddle?
I didn't know there were 4 paddles - both mine are 2 paddle QA42's
Here's a photo of a common two paddle and the less common four paddle. The two paddle has two auger flights on each side that meet in the center at one paddle, the two paddles being 180° apart. The four paddle variant has each auger flight meet at its own paddle, each paddle being 90° apart.
Two paddle:
Four Paddle:
Two paddle:
Four Paddle:
walls00000
Well-known member
Curious about this mod too. I just learned that I have a 4 paddle. I'm considering this for next winter. Whenever i turn mine on, i cross my fingers it won't shear a pin. There is 1/8 turn play in the gear box, and I worry about the needle bearings, as I haven't even seen those provided by perts shops.
To do this mod, it seems these things should be replaced.
1. Belt + pulley
2. Cogs ... I'm thinking both gears in the gear box
3. gear box lube
4. Flapper mod
Any thing else? I replaced my chain and master link last year
@digger if I did those things would that be considered "doing it right"?
To do this mod, it seems these things should be replaced.
1. Belt + pulley
2. Cogs ... I'm thinking both gears in the gear box
3. gear box lube
4. Flapper mod
Any thing else? I replaced my chain and master link last year
@digger if I did those things would that be considered "doing it right"?
Not impressed with the flapper mod myself, but.
Here's the correct things to do.
http://cubfaq.com/thrower.html
John Wheeler
Well-known member
I just rebuilt my QA-42A. I also didn’t know if the 2 or 4 paddle auger. Does the “A” make the difference? Just curious. As far as your key way goes, I caught a rock in the chain adjuster and wiped out what was left of an already worn out shaft cog. After I rebuilt the entire thing, re assembled, and test fired, is when I found the key way sheared! I’m glad I did my due diligence! Everything else was good on mine. Auger and needle bearings were surprisingly tight. Be aware, you have to cut off the old gear on the auger and weld it back on. I’m not too worried about aligning the drive smaller speed up pulley. Took me 8 hours start to finish and it was a leisurely pace. Hope this helps.
I believe the QA42 has two paddles and the QA 42 A has four paddles and a longer chute.
I've got 3 QA42's settin here with 4 paddles and also have 2 QA42A's with 2 paddles. Same applies to the QA36's, no rhyme or reason that I ever found when or why they made the 2 styles. Course I never really dug into it either.
It's screwed up - I went in my garage this morning and sure enough, I have a 4 paddle on my 1450 and hadn't even noticed the difference. The other QA42A I have is a 2 paddle and the CW36 is a 2 paddle. I guess I was just used to seeing them that it didn't stand out to me...
Well then my 2/4 paddle theory isn't going to fly. What about the longer chute and the adjustable mount only on QA42A's? I've also noticed that angle drives are different also, 3 mounting bolts versus 4. Internal parts seem to interchange.I've got 3 QA42's settin here with 4 paddles and also have 2 QA42A's with 2 paddles. Same applies to the QA36's, no rhyme or reason that I ever found when or why they made the 2 styles. Course I never really dug into it either.
rfunk
Well-known member
Not sure if it is linked to the 3 bolt vs 4 bolt mounting, but some gearboxes have room for the seal outside of the bearings, some do not. They may also need a different shaft length as a result. I need to grease my bearings and change to cold weather grease instead of gear lube . . . Unless, PO used a tiller gearbox on the thrower? I've got a 1:2 gearbox ratio. Is that right?
They may also need a different shaft length as a result. I need to grease my bearings and change to cold weather grease instead of gear lube . . . Unless, PO used a tiller gearbox on the thrower? I've got a 1:2 gearbox ratio. Is that right?It's been a few years since I repaired my angle drive so, my memory may not be all that accurate. But both gear boxes had sealed bearings no additional seals were on them. One gear box had had all four bearings that were the same. The other had three the same but one bearing was narrower than the others. Other than that, I believe the gears and shafts were the same.
John Wheeler
Well-known member
I only changed the goo. I didn’t do any repairs on that.
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