Proud New Owner of a 1973 Cub Cadet 149

[hydroharry]

I'll definitely be ordering one of those. You wouldn't by chance be able to take a pic of the lip on the bowl could you, a nice close up? That's the one thing I noticed when replacing my bowl gaskets is the lip was slightly pitted in certain areas on the lip due to gas leaking in between the gasket and sitting for who knows how many years. In the future I will replace out my bowl as well.

That's not my picture. It's stolen from the CC Specialties website. Please don't tell anyone.
Maybe someone has a bowl and they can post a pic.

 

[149CubLover]

That's not my picture. It's stolen from the CC Specialties website. Please don't tell anyone.
Maybe someone has a bowl and they can post a pic.

You're secret is safe with me!

Can I say on a side note how great of a forum this is. The knowledge on here is amazing. The passion we all seem to have for these machines is pretty cool.

 

[149CubLover]

Here's one I just found. $600 for that or mine? Choose wisely

Amazing these things treated good, bad or in between, still keep on mowing! You must have to drown these things to make them die.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/imoJQQxsuUuGs6dT/?mibextid=kL3p88

 

[hydroharry]

Here's one I just found. $600 for that or mine? Choose wisely

Amazing these things treated good, bad or in between, still keep on mowing! You must have to drown these things to make them die.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/imoJQQxsuUuGs6dT/?mibextid=kL3p88

20 years ago I used to say the tranny rearend was bullet proof, and the engine was close. They have now made it to roughly 50+ years and some tranny problems have started showing up. Mostly trunnion stuff that fairly easily addressed. Engine problems do now as well but overhauling has become pretty straight forward good for another 20 years.
The better the maintenance the less the issue it does seem. These things will be running long after me, as long as we still have gas and oil.

 

[149CubLover]

20 years ago I used to say the tranny rearend was bullet proof, and the engine was close. They have now made it to roughly 50+ years and some tranny problems have started showing up. Mostly trunnion stuff that fairly easily addressed. Engine problems do now as well but overhauling has become pretty straight forward good for another 20 years.
The better the maintenance the less the issue it does seem. These things will be running long after me, as long as we still have gas and oil.

I'm hoping since mine was cared for like a newborn, that it's just entering its adolescents!

 

[hydroharry]

I'm hoping since mine was cared for like a newborn, that it's just entering its adolescents!

Does seem like it was taken care of pretty well according to the records you identified. Only things I have a little concern with are the later dealer services. Most dealers never see these units any more and most of their parts lists show stuff NLA. So they just don't do stuff, and many don't know how. So be careful with your choices.

 

[PACub100]

And I'm located in Pennsylvania and would love a snowblower attachment. But my driveway is about 100 ft uphill. Not crazy steep but just not sure it would make it up it... Currently I have a 2015 Cub Cadet Snowblower with tracks on it and it works great. But, we barely get any snow here anymore. At least here in north central PA.

Welcome from another PA'r... just south of Altoona.

I have a QA42A on my 1450 with a speed up pulley. There's currently one on FB marketplace for $125 that looks like it was barely used. Definitely nice to have even if we haven't gotten to use them much the last 2 years...

 

[149CubLover]

Welcome from another PA'r... just south of Altoona.

I have a QA42A on my 1450 with a speed up pulley. There's currently one on FB marketplace for $125 that looks like it was barely used. Definitely nice to have even if we haven't gotten to use them much the last 2 years...

Thanks for the welcome!! I'm in Bloomsburg. Probably an hour and 45 from you.

Can you link me to this? It will attach to my 149?

 

[PACub100]

Here you go, it's in Somerset but from the looks of it, worth a drive...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/339214899040105/?mibextid=dXMIcH

 

[149CubLover]

Here you go, it's in Somerset but from the looks of it, worth a drive...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/339214899040105/?mibextid=dXMIcH

Thank you!!

I've never hooked up on of these. How long to get it all hooked up on my 149?

 

[PACub100]

On second look, it's been repainted. It still looks ok and for $125 doesn't look too bad.

 

[PACub100]

Hooking it up isn't too bad but it's not a hoot...if you sit it on a skid, it's pretty much the right height to hook up. Otherwise, it's really a 2 person job because these things aren't light.

Speaking of, you'll want to fill the rear tires with beet juice so you get the weight you need to offset the snow thrower. You can also add wheel weights or make something to attach to the back and add something like blocks or weight lifting weights...

If you're running turf tires,chains are a must. I leave mine on all year so I don't spin in the yard...

 

[-CӞ]

Hooking it up isn't too bad but it's not a hoot...if you sit it on a skid, it's pretty much the right height to hook up. Otherwise, it's really a 2 person job because these things aren't light.

Speaking of, you'll want to fill the rear tires with beet juice so you get the weight you need to offset the snow thrower. You can also add wheel weights or make something to attach to the back and add something like blocks or weight lifting weights...

If you're running turf tires,chains are a must. I leave mine on all year so I don't spin in the yard...

rear-tire weight and chains are a must in the snow, but skip the puny 4-link chains and opt for 2-link chains (cross-chains across the tread every 2 links of sidewall chain, vs. every 4 links).

experience taught me that no extra weight and 4-link chains is a recipe for tire-spinning traction-seeking,
while weight plus 2-link chains equals a steady supply of snow-dozing traction.

there are lots of wheel weights out there, though the period-correct OEM “iH”weights tend to be pricey.
i may configure a weight-box to attach to my 3-point, though I’ve already got wheel weights both inside and outside my rear wheels. if some ballast is good, then more oughta be better (right)?

 

[hydroharry]

Thank you!!

I've never hooked up on of these. How long to get it all hooked up on my 149?

I had a look at the 3 pics of the thrower. It generally looks pretty good from what I can see. I wouldn't say attaching it is really difficult. Ideally you would store it on a dolly so you can just roll it up to the front of the tractor and connect it to the Quick Attach (it basically attaches the same way your mule drive latches on the front).

Looking at the thrower itself it's a later version of the QA42A since it has the 4-paddle auger and the curved attaching bars (which allowed it to be used on the 82 series tractors). It still mounts and operates fine on a Wide Frame (like your 149) or a Quiet Line tractor. One difference for the 82 series is the belt drive pulley is for 5/8" belts. From what I can see in the pic it looks like a 5/8" belt pulley so you would need to change it to a 3/8" belt pulley to match your PTO.

Looking at the rest of the thrower, the auger looks pretty straight and the recent paint doesn't show rust but it's hard to tell condition of the mechanical parts. The auger has bearings on each end which are pretty easy to replace if necessary. It also has a chain and chain sprocket that is replaceable if necessary but a little more work to access. On the other side the chain connects on a smaller sprocket connected to a driveshaft with 2 U-joints. The small sprocket is a common wear item and if not maintained and replaced when necessary it wears into the bracket it mounted to. The bracket includes a main shaft with needle bearing mounts on each end. If the sprocket cuts into these it needs replacement.

Going on from here, the driveshaft is pretty straight forward. You can check the U-joints for play. It connects to a right angle gearbox which is the important part of the set up. It has 2 main shafts each with 2 bearings and each operates an internal right angle gear. They are quite well built but will have an occasional bearing failure.

All in all they operate really well with hydrostatic drive tractors. I used one on my 1450 for several years and enjoyed it. You can really move a lot of snow. I did have 50# weights on each rear tire and 2-link chains on my turf tires. My drive was asphalt and fairly flat, and the QA42A handled all kinds of snow types and depths. Also, I know your drive has a slope up. My neighbor had one fairly similar. He had a Wheelhorse 312 and snowblade. With over 3 or 4 inches he couldn't make it up the slope. I'd drive to his place with the thrower and make a run down first and had no trouble turning around and going up. The weight and chain traction are very important along with the hydro drive which allows infinite variable speed.

So, would I buy the thrower in the pic. Probably, but I'd have a good look. There should also be a T-handle rod to go with the Eye-hole rod in the pic. The T-handle rod allows you to rotate the thrower chute while you're seated on the tractor.

 

[149CubLover]

I had a look at the 3 pics of the thrower. It generally looks pretty good from what I can see. I wouldn't say attaching it is really difficult. Ideally you would store it on a dolly so you can just roll it up to the front of the tractor and connect it to the Quick Attach (it basically attaches the same way your mule drive latches on the front).

Looking at the thrower itself it's a later version of the QA42A since it has the 4-paddle auger and the curved attaching bars (which allowed it to be used on the 82 series tractors). It still mounts and operates fine on a Wide Frame (like your 149) or a Quiet Line tractor. One difference for the 82 series is the belt drive pulley is for 5/8" belts. From what I can see in the pic it looks like a 5/8" belt pulley so you would need to change it to a 3/8" belt pulley to match your PTO.

Looking at the rest of the thrower, the auger looks pretty straight and the recent paint doesn't show rust but it's hard to tell condition of the mechanical parts. The auger has bearings on each end which are pretty easy to replace if necessary. It also has a chain and chain sprocket that is replaceable if necessary but a little more work to access. On the other side the chain connects on a smaller sprocket connected to a driveshaft with 2 U-joints. The small sprocket is a common wear item and if not maintained and replaced when necessary it wears into the bracket it mounted to. The bracket includes a main shaft with needle bearing mounts on each end. If the sprocket cuts into these it needs replacement.

Going on from here, the driveshaft is pretty straight forward. You can check the U-joints for play. It connects to a right angle gearbox which is the important part of the set up. It has 2 main shafts each with 2 bearings and each operates an internal right angle gear. They are quite well built but will have an occasional bearing failure.

All in all they operate really well with hydrostatic drive tractors. I used one on my 1450 for several years and enjoyed it. You can really move a lot of snow. I did have 50# weights on each rear tire and 2-link chains on my turf tires. My drive was asphalt and fairly flat, and the QA42A handled all kinds of snow types and depths. Also, I know your drive has a slope up. My neighbor had one fairly similar. He had a Wheelhorse 312 and snowblade. With over 3 or 4 inches he couldn't make it up the slope. I'd drive to his place with the thrower and make a run down first and had no trouble turning around and going up. The weight and chain traction are very important along with the hydro drive which allows infinite variable speed.

So, would I buy the thrower in the pic. Probably, but I'd have a good look. There should also be a T-handle rod to go with the Eye-hole rod in the pic. The T-handle rod allows you to rotate the thrower chute while you're seated on the tractor.

That's a lot to digest lol thank you!

Off topic...The more I look at the aftermarket exhaust on my 149, the more I wonder why the previous owner didn't put something less obnoxious on it. From what I can tell, the he left the curved pipe that goes into the motor in place, cut it halfway up, put on a pipe clamp and the ugly muffler you see on it now.

Is it possible to remove the exhaust where it screws into the motor, or has 50 years of heat made that nearly impossible?

 

[hydroharry]

That's a lot to digest lol thank you!

Off topic...The more I look at the aftermarket exhaust on my 149, the more I wonder why the previous owner didn't put something less obnoxious on it. From what I can tell, the he left the curved pipe that goes into the motor in place, cut it halfway up, put on a pipe clamp and the ugly muffler you see on it now.

Is it possible to remove the exhaust where it screws into the motor, or has 50 years of heat made that nearly impossible?

Not sure the PO cut it off. Here's a pic of what it looks like new.
https://www.ccspecialties.org/pics/kh-235692 elbow.jpg
Doubt you really need to remove the old one. Is it hard to remove? Sometimes. Just depends. You can see the nut on the new one, that holds it in place. If you can break it loose the pipe will probably just turn out. Sometimes the nut has to be chiseled or cut off. Sometimes the pipe has to be heated red hot to unscrew.

Ooh, as far as digesting the snow thrower info, well it has a lot of moving parts. I didn't even say anything about the chute rotating mechanism. It's an interesting wheel design. Overall you sure get a lot for $125. If you do look at it make sure you look at the cutting edge which can be rotated. And look at the bottom - underneath where the housing has a piece of angle iron welded across it. Make sure that's not rusted out.