Project 100 rejuvenation

[wshytle]

Marty-

I have a recipe on file at my local hardware store. I took a small piece from a tractor and they computer matched it. It had to be tweeked a bit but is a very close match for the IH yellow. They sell Valspar and it has always done a good job for me. The hardener is what has gone through the roof pricewise. It's about $16 for that little can (half pint?).

What's the story with your 100??? We're still waiting...

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[mgwin]

Wayne,

You have a very nice hardware store. Around here, they are not as nice.

As you know, it has been too hot and humid to fool with the 100. I have been extra busy with other things also, including the flooding in my basement, and installing a water treatment system.
If it will ever cool down, I will get the 100 going.

 

[wshytle]

Marty-

It's Fitch Lumber Co. located here in Carrboro. It's been here since Moby Dick was a minnow and is now an Ace hardware with the same name. It has a reputation of being a little pricey but the paint I use is only about $18/quart.

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[hydroharry]

Hey Marty - understood on the paint. I prefer the IronGuard myself and it is readily available.

 

[tsdeese]

Can you put wet brakes on a 100?

 

[mgonitzke]

It already has an internal wet brake.

 

[Brad McGowan]

Tim,

Looking for those pics!

If I can paint without any runs, or at least only a couple, I usually put on around four or five coats.
What ever it takes to get that deep shine.

If I get in a hurry and create runs, I let it dry, sand down the runs, and put another good coat on.
Being patient with painting is something very hard for me to do.

As for the paint, I normally use around three quarts of federal yellow, and one quart of white.

I know this is an old thread but I am a new guy and getting ready to strip down and paint my first tractor a 70. I am very much interested in your process, you state you do 4-5 coats how much time elapses between coats? Thanks!

 

[mgwin]

Short version:
1- Sandblast/sand the parts.
2- while using disposable latex gloves, (to prevent any oil from your skin getting on the raw metal) wipe off any dust with a tack cloth and hang up parts to be primed.
3- prime parts and continue using clean latex gloves through the whole process
4- after parts dry for a day or two, sand them down with scotchbrite and tack cloth again. You can remove any runs in the primer during this step.
Now you are ready to paint.
I try to have several parts ready to paint, unless I am painting a large piece like the frame. By the time you paint all the parts, the first part will be "tacky," and can take another light coat.

 

[Jake Olsen]

This old thread has been a good one. The correct police-purists- we all want our tractors to be the best we can do with our resources and time but they are only new once. I really want to get my 70 done and was going to go to one of my originals but after this thread I might start on my round fender 100.

 

[mgwin]

If that is an old padded cover on a metal pan seat, I would take it off. The padding will soak up rain and rust out that pan seat real quick!
I see some lights! Nice.

 

[Jake Olsen]

I’m not sure on the seat. I actually haven’t even went and got or seen the tractor yet. And this is how he found it. I have a guy who finds them for me and sends me pictures. He has found me 4 tractors so far. This one , my first O a 125? And a 147. And it’s a 8 hour drive 1 way so I’m waiting for a little better weather.

 

[Jake Olsen]

So when I do get it it’s will take some work.

 

[kharvey]

Have a look around when you go get it as it looks like it had a snowthrower on it once upon a time.