Problems cutting field grass with my 1512. (Belt length problem?)

[sgalante]

My problem, is that I went to cut what I would call some high field grass (about 24") in my fathers field and my 1512 just wasn't "cutting it". Every once in awhile even though I was cutting outward, it seems like the blades weren't cutting well and maybe the belt was slipping. As I cut the grass, half the grass would remain high, especially between the blades. The blades seem fairly sharp, and I cleaned out the bottom of the deck before attempting the cut.

I'm trying to determine the proper length for what I guess you would call the "Mule Drive" mower belt for my 1512 using a 50C deck. I have tried looking at the Cub Parts lookup above, and a few of the sponsors web pages and saw a reference to a (754-3005, 954-3005 or IH 59702 C1) belt that was 1/2" x 85 1/2" but the description says "DECK SPINDLE 1/2 x 85 1/2 - 359 50 50C inch 3 Spindle Deck". I'm not sure if the 1512 requires a different belt than other Cubs using this deck, because it is uses a diesel motor.

With the belt tight, #2 in the picture is still about 1 1/4" out too far in comparison to where the "proper tension" picture shows it should be, also the screw adjustment marked #3 in this picture is shows about 2 1/4" of threads on my deck.

I think the belts I have bought may be the wrong length. The last time I bought a replacement belt they just measured the one I brought in off the mower and replaced it with the same size. I don't have a problem cutting "regular" grass, but when I was cutting my fathers field, it stopped and the PTO started going crazy. I could pull off to the side in previously cut grass and get the blades started again, but in a few seconds, before even trying to get into the high grass, the blades would disengage. The PTO would stay in the upright position, but the blades wouldn't go. Sometimes they wouldn't start at all. This problem with the blades stopping, happened after about an hour of cutting. After the machine cooled off a bit, everything seemed fine out off the field, and I put the Cub on the trailer and brought it home. Cut my regular grass yesterday, and everything seems fine.

I am guessing that the problem may be an incorrect belt. As a side question, is there some sort of safety mechanism in the PTO to shut down if it gets too hot? That's what seemed to be happening.

Sorry this was so long, but I wanted to explain exactly what happened.

Thank you,

SteveG.

 

[mbounds]

Steven G:

You have to check that MTD/CC chart by the tractor serial number, not model number, for all after the QL series. The 1512 requires a 5/8" wide PTO belt.

The correct PTO ("mule drive") Belt is shown by the Cub Cadet Belt/Blade Guide for tractors using a 50C deck to be a 954-3003A (5/8" x 72"). The correct deck spindle belt is the 954-3005 as you noted.

I have a 782D and haven't had that problem. Some grasses may require a high cut and then a lower re-cut. Consider that the Cub Cadet decks are finishing decks and not bush-hogs. So, in trying to mow really tall stiff grass, and when trying to cut it very low, the grass will sometimes just get bent over by the deck housing and the blades will just go over the top of a lot of it.

High-cut and then re-cut to desired height and a correct belt will likely solve a lot of your problem.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[sgalante]

Myron,

Thanks for your answer. I was cutting the grass at the highest setting, my mower could do. My father was actually following me (about 2 rows back) with his new 2550 (which he greatly dislike in comparison to his old 1450 which died on him). Even at the highest setting, I was getting a horrible cut. I was just trying to save my father $100 by not having to call in someone with a bush hog to cut his field down. I'm going to check to see if my belt is the wrong size. Any idea about what was happening with the PTO switch? Could it overheat? I didn't see a way of doing what you mention about looking up the serial number & deck size. Anyways, thank you again for looking it up for me. SteveG

 

[mbounds]

Steven G: I would guess that the air gap on the PTO is slightly off. It works under light/normal loads but gets hot and disengages when under heavy load. Check the air gap and re-adjust as necesary....because sooner or later it will begin doing the same under all conditions...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[sgalante]

Myron,
Thank you again for your help. I did a search for "air gap" on the website, but didn't really see anything that tells me how to check/adjust it.

I still want to check the length of my belt, since the one "I think" was on there last measures 91". That is 19" more than the belt you say should be on there. Sometime this week, I'll pull the deck off and measure the actual belt.

Thank you again for all your help, and if you can point me in the right direction, (as far as the air gap, and how you determined the correct belt) I would greatly appreciate it.
SteveG

 

[mgonitzke]

Stephen G.-

There is no possible way that your belt is 19" longer than the correct one. It wouldn't even drive the deck.

 

[sgalante]

Matt, I measured the old belt that was on that deck when I got it, and it measures 91". Because I was so worried that I had measured the wrong belt. I just took the CURRENT belt off and measured it. "Now this is an OUTSIDE measurement of the belt", the belt that is on there now measures 90". Even accounting for an inner vs. outer diameter of 1 1/2" (3/4" thick belt) Using my highschool geometry knowledge, I still would have about an 85" or 86" belt. That means the difference is between 13" - 19". I finally found the chart that shows the proper belt for my 1512 on Charlie's FAQ, and it DOES show the belt that Myron states (5/8" x 72") I assure you the current belt turns my blades. But as I said before, the adjustment screw and alignment guides seem to be sticking out too far. (2 1/4" on the bolt, and 1 1/4" too much showing on the alignment position) I appreciate your input. It doesn't seem like there is any way I would be able to get a 72" belt on. Even if I double all the adjustments (2 x 2 1/4" and 2 x 1 1/4") I would only get 7 inches that I am taking up with the adjustments. That leaves the belt still 6" - 11" too long.
I hope that made sense.

SteveG

 

[mbounds]

Steven G: There is a foot note in the Belt/Blade Guide that says that some tractors with a 50C deck require the use of a 954-3071 PTO belt. Its 5/8" x 88.5" in length...Close to what you measured...

The PTO air gap setting is detailed in the service manual. Please check it out....

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[sgalante]

Myron,

Thank you again, especially for pointing out the footnote about the 88.5" belt. I was a little worried there that something was really different on my 1512, like someone had changed pulley sizes or something. I will try to get my hands on a Service Manual to check the "air gap". I haven't really worked on the innards of my tractor yet, but this may give me a chance to start doing that.

SteveG

 

[rleo]

Guys,
It's been a while. I hope I'm in the right place.

I bought a Cadet 1170 a couple of years ago. My son checked the oil and didn't snap the dip stick back on. . .and burned up the engine.

The engine model number is #31G777 0192. Briggs makes a replacement: #31G777 0036. But it's pricey.

Question: Can I switch in Model #31P777-0492 ?
I realize this is pretty fine grain, but, I can get this model for half the cost of the replacement engine.

 

[mbounds]

Ray L: I have no specs on those engines but check the output shaft. If they are the same and you can put the original pulley on it, you should be good to go as B&S normally uses the same block bolt foot print. The diameter and length of the output shaft must be the same as the original to just bolt it in......

Myron B
CCSupplyroom

 

[rleo]

Myron,
Thank you.
--Ray

 

[agitch]

Was at the dealer today and remember reading your belt problem. He's a dealer that's real good with the older ones. He said you should have part number 954-3003A which is 5/8 x 89 not 5/8 x 72. That's the size my 782 has.