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Need to re-power my 982 (dropped a cylinder on the Onan)

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Try this guy on evilpay I bought parts from him garyh989 is in Michigan
 
Hi guys.
I have a lead on a Mag. 20 from what I'm told is out of a Cub Cadet 2082.
So all I need to do is drop it right in? I know I need the front PTO, but as far as hooking up the the drive shaft and so on......it will bolt right in? Jim H. mentioned something about needing a relay for the ignition. What part number is that? Where do I get one?
I plan on going to look at it Saturday and possibly buy it Saturday. Some quick feedback will help me feel more comfortable.
Thanks!!
 
Shultzie,
Its as simple as taking old one out and dropping new one in. The relay is for the ignition. All you is a simple relay. If you look under my post of repowering a 982 with a mag 20 (its in the restore refurb thread) there's part numbers and diagrams. The only thing that may cause you is the choke and throttle cables. That I am not for sure because I used the ones off the 2072. But I believe you will find they are a little long from the onan. Any other guestion shoot me a email with your number and I will talk to you about it. Email in profile
 
Jim.
Thanks! I talked to the guy tonight and he is busy Sat. morning and I'm busy in the afternoon. So it will prolly be next Saturday when I get it. Thanks again for the info. As long as it sounds good I'll get it. The PTO is not on it, so I will be looking for a PTO.
Thanks again Man!
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Jim,
I've been looking for your post about the part numbers and wiring diagram, but I can't find it to save my behind.
Can you give me a link or something?
Thanks.
 
Kent,
I am starting to think Ronald Bell emailed it to me. I do not have it anymore because of a lighting strike. I will do some looking in my books and let you know what I find.
 
A-Zone should have the relay...pretty basic stuff....many times they are used for driving lights, etc.
 
Here's an update on my "9".
I picked up this Mag. 20 Wednesday night.
297661.jpg

It was in a cyclops tractor and I told the guy I wanted to hear it run. So when I got there we cranked it over and over. Didn't start. Come to find out it was not getting any spark. We couldn't figure it out quickly so I got it anyway for a little less money. The only reason I did that is I was about 1hr. and 45min. away from home and I wanted to get back home.
So we pulled the engine and I was headed home.
I figured that maybe it needed an ing. module that is on the flywheel. Once I got it home and on the bench I seen a couple of loose wires. The one on the starter was broke. I didn't unhook the starter wire so I don't know if it got broke then or was that way.
297662.jpg

The next one is this one. Can anyone tell me what this is supposed to do?
297663.jpg

I followed it to this connector.
297664.jpg

297665.jpg

I guess what I want to know, should I take a chance on hooking the wires back up where they belong and try it? The guy said it ran fine a few months ago when he parked it.
1a_scratchhead.gif

Thanks.
 
Voltage regulator is the square in the flywheel housing. Center wire is the charge wire, outer two are stator wires (28-29volts ac). Other arrows point to fuel pump location. Mag probably has a bad ignition module, OR the ignition wire from the module was grounded when you tried to start it....resulting in no spark.
 
Here is a better pic of the small wire. It is about a 20 or 22 ga. wire. The forth arrow on the right is where it goes into a protective tubing.
297668.jpg
 
It should run with everything unhooked except the starter wire and ground......Mag engines need 0 electric powe to run and only need the Mag grounded to be shut down. Wires to harness from engine should be charge wire from vr, signal wire from oil pressure light sending unit, kill wire, and starter cable.....that's it....
 
Here is a better pic of the small wire. It looks like it is going to the carb. Is it just an idiot light and doesn't need to be hooked up or what?
1a_scratchhead.gif

297683.jpg

297684.jpg
 
Fuel shut off solenoid.......keeps it from backfiring. Hook it back up and put 12v to it in the start and run key switch position. 12V will open it and 0 volts will allow it to close via spring.

That's why it wouldn't run.....no fuel.....
 
Steve.....Get out a town! Are you serious?!
That's good news. I'll try it! Thanks!
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Steve,
Thanks for the link.

Jim,
I really haven't done much lately. I've got some family issues that need attended to first. Hopefully it will all work out. If not I guess that's just the way it is.
Hopefully in a few weeks I can get the "9" back in the garage and get moving forward again. (it's in the barn now)
Thanks!
 

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