My "new" 1872

[mgonitzke]

Ken-

I haven't done anything about the backlash yet...I'm trying to find a combination of shims that'll let me move the carrier 7 thou closer to the pinion. So far, the numbers aren't working out. I've got a 30 and a 4 thou on the left side, and two 30s on the right. I think I need 41 on the left and 53 on the right. Problem is, the shims come in 4, 7, 15, and 30 thou. I can make the 41 for the left, but the only way I think I can make 53 thou for the other side with OEM shims is with seven 7 thou shims and one 4 thou. That's probably $150 new...I wonder if I can make my own from shim stock?

Oh...your 1882 rear has the bigger axles, which is good, and I'm sure it'll be fine if you keep the bolts tight...That's what wrecked this one. Only thing is, those axle tubes look huge, but they're mostly air. I've got 2 sets of 'em if you want some spares

 

[kweaver]

Problem with cutting your own shims would be the burr/bent edge from the cutting. That would screw with the thickness since you don't have the proper punch and die in your pocket ... The center would be a pain to cut too.
It might be worth a try but sheet shim stock isn't cheap either to experiment with.

On the aluminum housings , I wish it had been the later years model when they went to thick aluminum. They started making the walls 5/16" I think ... maybe 1/4".

 

[mgonitzke]

Well, I think I figured this out. If I can find another 7 thou shim, I can have 41 thou on the left and 52 on the right, which shifts 7 thou to the left side but reduces the overall total shim thickness by 1 thou. I hope that doesn't increase the preload on the carrier too much, but this is the only way I can come up with to do this with what I have and what I can buy.

 

[mgonitzke]

I took apart another parts aluminum rear, and it only had 30 and 15 thou shims, so I still gotta find a 7 thou one. Time to put a want ad in the classifieds, I guess.

 

[mgonitzke]

Thanks to a generous forum member, I've got some shims headed my way. I took the pinion shaft back out to put the driven gear on (didn't put it on the first time so that if the pinion depth had to be changed, I wouldn't have to keep taking it on and off). Anyway, I had to file away some casting flash so the slightly larger super driven gear would not grind. The other day, I also had to tap one of the carrier bearing retainer holes deeper...not sure how it made it all this time with a hole that was tapped too shallow...

I've also got some of the odds'n'ends in my electrolysis tank so they can clean while I work on other things.

 

[mgonitzke]

Finally got back to this, as I spent the last week getting 6 tractors ready to leave today. They're gone, so now I can move on with this. I re-shimmed the carrier, and now I've got ~3.5 thou backlash (acceptable range 3-8 thou) and this:

How's this look?

 

[mgonitzke]

I'm finally getting somewhere now...the rear and associated parts are in primer. I'll shoot the black in the next couple of days with an HVLP gun, depending on when the weather is good.

Now that we talked about paint guns the other day, the Sears gun I use gave me crap all day. I took it apart and dumped a few big flakes of black paint out of it...I hope that was the problem.

 

[mgonitzke]

Oops.

 

[mgonitzke]

I didn't get any pictures of the stuff hanging from the ceiling with shiny black paint. I discovered that the suction tube for the aluminum rear is slightly different than the one for an iron rear, so I had to carefully file off the ring for the compression fitting and put on a new one in a different location. Here's the rear back in the tractor, Hytran topped off after filling it most of the way and waiting 30 minutes for the axle tubes to fill with Hytran. Notice that I remembered to mask off the breather...a glob of grease works great. Paint over the top of it and wipe it off after the paint dries for a couple days.

After putting everything back together....

IT LIVES!

I drove it around a bit, and up and down our 550' driveway. I didn't hear any unusual noises, and there aren't any leaks as of yet. I'll have to peek under it in the morning and check for leaks.

I still have to put the muffler tin back on now that it's been fixed, and put on the side panels, wash/wax everything, and get some V61s to replace the worn and leaky front tires. Next on the list is a complete overhaul of the 50" deck, but that'll have to wait a bit.

 

[fcurrier]

This is something I'm not used to seeing:

The stub shafts here are all short and smooth. So - for today's lesson, why is Matt's "ribbed"?

 

[kweaver]

Frank - That's for the optional rear electric PTO.
I thought once about making one for my SGT since it has the stub too (plus I have another pump with stub). I bought 2 splined couplers so then I was going to use one of my old electric clutches ... but I lost interest.

Matt - Glad to see you didn't have any great difficulty making the swap , now come down here and get me motivated !
Powersteering is sweet isn't it

 

[mgonitzke]

Yeah, the PS sure is nice. Perhaps I can get this completely assembled today since it's raining.

 

[jbaker]

Matt its been almost a year how did that rear end swap work out after you put some hours on it?

 

[mgonitzke]

To be honest, I'm not sure more than 5 hours have been put on it. I mowed with it a bit last summer, and my dad used it once with the 364 blower this winter. I won't be home for a month yet (if at all...depending on my employment situation) to use/work on it more. There is manifold vacuum leak or something that makes the engine gallop and surge, and I'd like to fix that before I use it too much more. Neither I nor my dad has noticed any unusual noises from the rear, and it works great. The rear cover gasket leaks a bit though...