My "new" 1872

[mgonitzke]

My Dad went and picked up this 1872 I found on craigslist while I was still at school. Now that I'm home, I'm trying to fix it all up and get it ready to use. I was hoping it wouldn't need much and would be ready to work. Unfortunately, there's a lot of things that need fixing. It was running and driving, but the oil smells like gas, so that's going to get changed. The PO must have been a bit lazy when it came to draining oil:

Here's the adjustable carb I rebuilt to replace that POS Walbro:

The engine needs a bit of cleaning, and I need to add an inline shutoff valve and replace the grommet for the tank shutoff...it leaks badly at the moment.

All of the tie rod ends need replacing, and will be replaced with heim joints, and the steering cylinder rod ends are also shot.

This tractor will be getting an iron rearend, as a result of what I discovered when I looked under the tractor:

 

[aaytay]

Matt-
What size deck did that tractor come with?

The reason I ask is because if it came with the 60" HABAN deck, that oil-drain may be a smart idea. I have not been able to find a good way to do an oil-change without first removing the deck and subframe on my 1872, which is no small feat with that big deck.

Also, if that transmission isn't leaking, you may want to just leave it as is. You may be surprised how long it lasts, I know I have been pleasantly surprised by mine.

Just some thoughts...

 

[mgonitzke]

Art-

It's got a 50" deck. In addition to the welded parts on the rear, it also has at least one stripped bolt in the case. I've got an iron case laying around, and I'd like to add some "free" weight to this thing.

 

[junderwood]

Art,
Put one the the drain valves the greene machines use on yours. You can put a hose on the nipple and open the valve. Look up on the 200/300 series tractors they should have them for a part number. I am sure Kraig could contact his source and get you one.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, the valve that John mentioned is $25.99 retail. My source does not have one in stock but they could get you one.

 

[mgonitzke]

Well, I put on the adjustable carb, changed the oil, put in the inline shutoff, fixed the leaky grommet on the tank, put it all back together and...it no longer has spark.

It ran two weeks ago when my dad picked it up. It appears that the primary coil in the mag is open. My spare mag also has an open primary

I've FINALLY got the flywheel shroud off...man, what a PITA to remove without pulling the engine. And of course, now I see the muffler shield needs welding, the engine had 1 tight bolt holding it in, and there were no locknuts on the engine end of the driveshaft. Now I've got to order a mag before I can wash the rear and split this thing and start getting the CI rear together...

 

[mgonitzke]

Back to work on this again. Since I finally got it running and driving again, I have now started the CI rear conversion. Here's the donor rear:

Cleaned, and most of the loose paint stripped off:

I put match marks on the bearing retainers so that they wind up going back in the same way they came out.

There's definitely some gunk in here:

Here's the bare transaxle, cleaned:

Here's the coarse-spline 'guts'. I hope that I can use the pinion shaft from the aluminum rear, because the ring gear is shot on this one...there's a crack in one of the teeth. Tomorrow's project is to pull the rear that's in the 1872 and disassemble it.

Question for the experts: The IH manual has all these instructions about shimming the rear bearing cup for the pinion shaft, and I assume this is to get the proper pinion depth/orientation for the spiral-cut gears in the IH rears. The aluminum rear has straight-cut ring and pinion gears, and there are no such instructions in the CCC manual for the aluminum rears...it just tells you to put it together and set the backlash, with no mention of setting the depth. My thought is that it doesn't make much of a difference with the straight cut gears. If I use the straight cut ring and pinion, do I just follow the CCC manual?

 

[mgonitzke]

And here's the picture I forgot in the last post:

 

[kweaver]

Matt - The backlash is the depth as you call it. The deeper the mesh the less backlash. You need to "paint" the teeth and set the backlash to were there is an even wear patch centered on the teeth showing on the paint.

 

[mgonitzke]

Ken-

Whoops. When I said backlash, I meant preload. I know that backlash and the depth are the same thing, but that didn't quite make it to the keyboard last night.

 

[vthomley]

Matt,
Could that CI Rear be the one I dropped off/traded you a 1-1/2 years ago?

The "guts" look familiar....plus I been looking for my gunk...

 

[mgonitzke]

Vince-

Nope, this was the one I already had. The one I got from you is eventually going in my diesel.

 

[vthomley]

Ok, just wait 'til you see the gunk in that one...

I just printed off your carb instructions - THANKS! I've Rebuilt a couple but it is good to have the step by step intstructions.

 

[mgonitzke]

Today I removed the aluminum rear from the 1872. All 4 axle tube bolts that held the rear to the frame were twisted off inside, so the PO just jammed some short 7/16" bolts in there to hold it in...

The carrier looks like new, and there was no junk in the case. The axles look like new, as well. Everything's in good shape.

The best news is that the pinion shafts appear to be of the same dimensions between the CI and aluminum rears. I'll do some checking tomorrow, but it looks like that'll go right in.

I'll then spend the better part of tomorrow trying to get the right contact pattern. Hooray for trial and error

Vince-

 

[kweaver]

Boy that'd have been embarrassing at a PD , have the rear end pass up the frame when those "stub" bolts let go , like in cartoons.

I've wanted to change my 1882 out but I don't have a donor. After the way I treated it pulling out a dogwood stump I'm beginning to believe it doesn't need the CI housing.

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, I have a few spare cast iron hydro differentials setting around. You pay the shipping

and one of them can be yours...

 

[mgonitzke]

Now it looks like I have to take the carrier apart to get it in there...the fine-spline carrier is a bit bigger and won't quite clear the CI case.

 

[mgonitzke]

Ok, how's this look? Looking for opinions before I go any further. This looks pretty good to me, but I've never done this before, so...

 

[mgonitzke]

Ok, here's a bit more info. I set up the dial indicator like so, and measuring it this way, I've got 9 thou backlash. Manual spec is 3-8 thou. I think I need to move some shims around, but now I don't have the right assortment to do what I think I need to do.

 

[kweaver]

I know it's late but I've been getting greasy too today. <font size="-2">(My TOY has new clutch/pressure plate/flywheel!)</font>
The tooth pattern looks good from here, what'd you do about the backlash ?

Oh and my aluminum housing has much bigger axle housings than yours so maybe it's strong enough not to replace it