• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

My first yellow GT, rough 147

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Brad Kamm

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 21, 2020
Messages
128
Location
Abrams, WI
This 147 is my first yellow and white true garden tractor. A nice addition to the 182, 382S, 80, 81, and 682. I think this machine has had a tough life. A cheap price and nice features made the deal. The engine (K321a) runs fairly well except at low rpm’s, needs carb cleaning and cables are sticky. The driveshaft appears to be broke clean off inside the joint at the engine which helped the low price. So not sure about the health of the hydro unit, it’s full of oil and clean. Not sure how to test it without replacing the shaft, will add it to my list of parts from Houtz and Son. The electric lift, rear lift, and spring assist all work good. Let the work begin!
1361CA47-D6A0-4AD0-A009-6F3C1BE0EDC3.jpeg
9E75E0C5-FB5F-4BDB-999E-89D583D93CEA.jpeg
AED0BEF5-BA78-475D-9E90-11CA37F08490.jpeg
29932DBA-B967-4D64-A75A-146334E7D03E.jpeg
 
Nice tractor!

Your rough running also might be attributed to carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. The carbon acts a fuel sponge and can effectively lean out the mixture enough to promote a lean misfire. On the single cylinder Kohlers, cleaning the carbon is a easy process, but requires a new head gasket. When removing the head, keep track where each head bolt is supposed to be placed. Also be careful about getting all of the loose carbon from the top of the piston and valves, as this excess loose carbon can score the cylinder wall, and possibly cause a sticky ring if not fully removed. I used Easy Off oven cleaner and a hard bristle nylon brush to clean the carbon deposits the head, and top of the piston. Final cleaning was done using brake cleaner and a lint free rag. When bolting the head back on, there is a head bolt torque sequence and torque value which must be adhered to. This is considered a normal maintenance procedure. This procedure made a performance difference with my 1989 1050 with the 10HP Kohler Magnum. Mine has a fixed jet carb, so proper fuel delivery is essential. It mostly cured a lean misfire my engine was experiencing.
 
Nice unit! The 147 was my first cub too!
Its nice it came with the electric lift and rear lift!
 
My limited carb skills got the engine running fairly well. The carb was very dirty and center jet was bent. Did the best I could with straightening, replaced fuel line, and flushed all the ports. Starts good, but still idles a bit rough, overall happy with results. Plan to get a new head gasket and remove head and check the carbon buildup as stated by 1811cub.
 
Has anyone installed a bushing in a carb for the throttle shaft? The one on this 147 is really sloppy. Is this a part I have to make or can I buy one?
 
Might want to google his name to see why he doesn't deserve a cent of anybody's money.
That's up to whomever is seeking the parts or repair procedures... I do not endorse or recommend any vendor. Caveat emptor
 
Wow! I had no idea.

Since we have the Hillman p/n (thanks Kraig), I would say that is the way to go, or the FAQ method. I have had success using fiberglass washers. We use tons of fiber washers in my industry.
 
If the throttle shaft is sloppy, then that is what is creating your lean condition.. Kraig is right.. The hillman # is 58087-A and can be found at Ace hardware and also Tru-Valu.. And while you have it off the tractor get a rebuild kit from CC Specialties and change the fuel jet and gaskets.. Very inexpensive and you will be good for a while..
Has anyone installed a bushing in a carb for the throttle shaft? The one on this 147 is really sloppy. Is this a part I have to make or can I buy one?
 
Not sure what the right way is to replace the driveshaft on a 147, but this is how I am doing it. As you can see, there’s a lot of dirt and oil buildup on everything. A good cleaning will be needed first, then repair driveshaft.
AAFCA6C3-A15A-4D9A-B210-F275694629E3.jpeg
463532A1-18B0-4E9E-A81C-DABEAA08B310.jpeg
D328E8F8-DCFD-47FE-B43C-A9994541E3C5.jpeg
Brakes also need attention.
 
So I got the driveshaft replaced, thanks Rob Houtz, and the hydro operates smoothly. Also replaced the sediment bowl and rebuilt the carb. I used a Koehler rebuild kit with the needle and seat, but it still overflows gas. Not sure why the needle won’t seal, any ideas? This needle didn’t have wire spring that clips the needle to the float. Should the needle just float up and down in the seat without being attached to the float??
 
Did you replace the needle seat? Maybe the float tab needs an adjustment. Not sure about the lack of wire piece. Can you reuse the old one?
 
No spring in the K-series carb. Make sure the float is adjusted correctly and not full of gas.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top