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Mikes Very Own 169 Refurbish

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Thank You Earl - Thank You Marlin.. I've been doing all this with an auto battery that I know is good. It just won't fit in the battery box!

I used the old battery 'cause I wanted to drive the turkey around.. In other words, I've run out of patience!
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I landed another side job so the 169 has to move over (doing a 55 Ford F-100 restomod) and it'll let me "re-charge" my ambition for the 169 (Pun intended!
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As always THANKS for the input, it is appreciated.
 
Mike F I run a ground wire direct from the battery
to the engine. Helps a lot. The frame makes a poor ground on 40 year old tractors.
 
Hi Kendal, I do the same thing, from the ground of the battery to the base of the SG.

The frame makes a bad ground even brand new. Copper is a better conductor.
 
Went to AutoZone this morning and bought a battery, 425 CCA for 52 bucks. We'll see how it works out. I got the battery bolted in, then worked towards getting the 42A snowthrower installed. The pulley on the gearbox was broken so I picked up a new one - it was a blank so I did the bore and keyway and installed that, then flipped the thrower over to discover not a trace of a cutting edge. I had a piece of flatstock that fit the bill so I drilled and bolted it on.

Then ran out of time. Maybe get it mounted tomorrow, it's pretty rough overall - but then so is the tractor! LOL..
 
Mike - your progress and engine starting concerns me. I'm glad to see you got a decent size battery. You didn't mention if your shop is heated or not. If not, then at your current temps it will taking longer to start.

I don't recall you mentioning doing static timing, but if not please at least do this, or better yet in my view, use the ole timing light (with all your projects you must have one).

I'm also assuming you went thru the carb as part of this project.

And then finally, how about re-torqueing the head bolts? At least 3 times after 15-20 minutes of run time, and then complete cool down.

Once everything is all set up it should start quick, and re-start very quickly.
 
Oh yes, it's heated, I usually only set the thermostat at 60. Yes, we did the static timing deal. It isn't an ignition problem, it's a engine cranking speed issue.

The carb has been apart / cleaned and all the tiny holes were chased to make sure they were clear. I've retorqued the head bolts once after riding it around.
 
Mike - geez, I hated to mention the things I did since I know their old hag for you.

Since you got 60degree temps in the shop are you going to clean up the housing on that thrower and throw on some fresh paint or slip-plate? Rust is your enemy for throwing very far.
 
Harry B. You mean that it is rust and not old age is the reason that I can't throw a ball as far as I used to?
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Harry, keep mentioning all the little things that might help. Not just for me but for others who might read this! I'll keep tinkering with the ol'girl and we'll keep making things better. I'm out of time for doing much more and need to get it re-assembled and set aside. So I'm probably going to at least coat the snorkel inside since it isn't attached at the moment. A new coat of paint should do wonders.

That's right Marlin! We'll blame rust for all our aches & pains... rofl!
 
Mike - rust is your enemy for throwing snow.
Marlin - rust is your enemy for throwing (snow) balls
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Mike - make sure you tighten those set screws on the thrower drive shaft. I don't know how much torque they should get but wish it was 20,000 ft/pds. The one that connects at the output shaft of the gearbox always comes lose. I'm assuming your thrower is one that has the keyway opposite the set screw. Don't know why IH or it's sub-contractor did it. Should have been above the keyway. I've only ever seen one that did have 2 set screws and wondered if someone changed theirs.
 
Funny you should mention those setscrews.. they are tight but the shaft is still loose. I felt like Don Tanner again today. I was trying to get the drivebelt on and the adjusting bolt was very hard to turn. I kept turning but the gearbox never moved!?!?!? Getting down and looking I noticed the bottom nut missing from the pivot mount. Applied oil and turned slowly and with pliers and an adjustable wrench and finally got the nut back onto the bolt for the pivot, then changed direction and tried to raise the gearbox. After many minutes I discovered the box wasn't rising but the slot in the adjuster bracket had broken one side!
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So I took the thrower back off the tractor / disassembled the whole adjusting mechanism and welded the broken part back on and with the adjuster nut in the vise and a pair vise grips, spun the adjusting bolt out to wire wheel it and apply some grease to the threads. Also the pivot points were all badly rusted and the one on the left was frozen so after more wire wheeling, it moves nicely now!

Now I'll try to re-install it and finish assembly of the 169 tomorrow. My friend Mark didn't want to see the frame so rusty up front so he brought some paint with him this afternoon. I used some of it to coat the snorkel, it's a "Tuscan Yellow" by Krylon I think it was.. Just a shade darker than the Cub Cadet yellow I used on the motor.
 
What a difference a day makes! After hitting the local power equipment shop and getting a new drivebelt for the thrower. I went about getting the adjuster reattached and ready to go. I must say that the previous users of this thrower must have had stock in a nail factory! Any place that a hitch pin or a cotter pin should have been, they used a nail!! So I corrected that, got the unit remounted, belt installed and reinstalled the snorkel and turning gear. Out of curiosity I jumped in the seat after opening the fuel petcock, and turned the key. With the choke pulled tight and the throttle about 50% - it rolled 4 or 5 times and roared to life!! WOO HOO
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So I continued by getting the grille and hood on and replaced the wear shoes the thrower rides on. I added a half inch rod to gain a little height and have a sacrificial section to spare the thrower further injustice.

I still need to get the wheel weights and chains on and finish some wires so the lights work.
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Mike - hey sounds like things are coming along great now. I'll be praying for ya to get a foot or so of snow so you can really try it out!!!
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Yep, I tried it 3 more times and with the throttle at 50% it'll fire right off with a few revolutions. So I'm happy now.

In the pictures below, it's running and the hydraulics work well with no leaks or "sagging" piston!
 
Mike - I so glad you're "So I'm happy now". What's the chance we'll get to hear it starting and running. Can you post a video link someplace?

Couple other things - what do you mean the set screws are tight but the driveshaft is still lose on the thrower?

I also noticed you're hydraulic lift handle seems to be leaning towards the rear. Is there slop in the handle when pulling/pushing? I think I recall you just added it to this tractor and I'm wondering about the little tiny roll pin that holds the handle to the linkage?
 
I'm good with machines.. video??? That'll take some learning curve!
The setscrews at the gearbox end (there were 2!) seemed tight but the shaft was still sliding around on the shaft. So more disassembly / cleaning / deburring and reassembly - with heavy on the threadlocker. It must be the picture, I don't think the handle leans and there isn't any slop in the linkage. The hydraulics are good and tight.

My only complaint is the whine from the hydro, what a sound!
 
Yes it is Marlin! It's seems like it's taken forever at times.

Thanks to all the guys who've helped and offered their tips and experiences!

And thanks to Charlie (Digger) and CCS, both for this site and having the parts needed to get the old girl up and running again.

Still need to figure out the wires / lights and get the weights and chains on the wheels. Check the fluids and add some grease to the fittings.
 

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