Manual Lift Arm

[glippert]

According to FAQ #78, the top thumb button should unscrew from the rod in the manual lift arm. Is this the same on all models? The top button and the rod of my grandson's 1250 work fine, but the bottom L-bend is worn pretty thin by the ratchet, so I'd like to have it built up, or maybe even replaced. But surprise - the top doesn't screw off! I've been PB Blastering it for several days, but I'm afraid to apply too much force to unscrew it. Plus, I'm not really clear on how this is all assembled - what holds the rod up inside the outer tube? Parts Lookup drawing doesn't show any type of flange. Does anyone have actual photos of the assembly while it's disassembled?

 

[dschwandt]

It does screw off, Ya just gotta try harder and hope you don't break it.
There is an indent on the side of the tube a ways down, you can feel it.,
This supports the return spring that is sitting (#7) on a narrow washer (part #8) which is in turn sitting on the indent keeping the whole shebang in place and the button popped popped up.

This is indeed all pictured in the parts lookup.

https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/cont...aefeaf/c9fb0764-d5b9-42d8-903d-d100327b416d/y
You would probably have better luck getting your penetrant into the threads by removing the ass'y and propping it upside down.

 

[glippert]

Thanks, David. Now that you point out the indent on the tube, the drawing makes sense. I'll keep working on it, but if I can't get it off it'll probably last a long time as is. I'll just make sure the grandson knows to hold the button down so the rod doesn't rub against the ratchets.

This forum has never let me down!

 

[kmcconaughey]

How are you getting the PB Blaster into it? The only way that would work would be to remove the lift arm and rockshaft and turn it upside down and spray the PB Blaster in from the bottom of the tube.

 

[glippert]

Yeah, that's the problem - I just applied from the top, hoping it would eventually find it's way back up into the threads. Not ready to go that far, so we'll just hope for it to last longer than me. Thanks, Kraig.

 

[dschwandt]

The button stop lock (part #14) must be missing or stuck in the handle if he has to hold the button down all the time.
Charlie has 'em

 

[glippert]

David, I wasn't clear about holding the button down. I didn't mean that he has to hold the button down all the time. I meant to say that when he moves the handle to adjust the deck height, he should be sure the top button is pushed down all the way, so the L-bend doesn't rub on the ratchet and wear it down any more.

If I decide to remove the whole assembly, to address the rusted-on release rod pin (thumb button), I'll need to remove the fender pan and tunnel cover to access the coiled spring pins with my pin punch, right? Then slide the rockshaft out? I should probably start soaking those pins now...

 

[kharvey]

You could drill a small centered hole in the top of the button to get penetrating oil onto the threads.

 

[glippert]

You could drill a small centered hole in the top of the button to get penetrating oil onto the threads.

I thought about that, but now I've discovered that one of the mounting holes in the oil pan is stripped out, and a 2nd hole is starting to look the same. Since I'll have some spare time on my hands while I wait for that to get repaired, I think I'll pull the fender pan off and work on removing the whole lift arm-rock shaft assembly, flip it over and apply penetrant from the bottom end. It'll be fun...

Since I'm in the high risk age group and we have the virus in our county now, I may hold off and self quarantine for a while. After all, if I catch it and die, that 1250 may never get done! My garage is a good quarantine location.

 

[dschwandt]

You would have to drill a hell of a deep hole to reach the top of the threaded rod AND it would have to stay centered all the way down. Where the spring loaded detent is located and touches the pin, there is a slot in the pin that narrows down the OD of it quite a bit.

 

[kmcconaughey]

You would have to drill a hell of a deep hole to reach the top of the threaded rod AND it would have to stay centered all the way down. Where the spring loaded detent is located and touches the pin, there is a slot in the pin that narrows down the OD of it quite a bit.

Yep, it gets very narrow in that area. Here's a photo of one stolen from CC Specialties website.

 

[glippert]

Yeah, that's what makes me nervous about putting too much force on it while trying to get it loose. Makes it worth the extra effort to remove the whole assembly and PB Blast it from the bottom.

 

[dschwandt]

I think, seeing as how you want to "fix" the bottom of the rod, if you cut the bottom off the rod where it makes the 90* bend, you may just be able to pull the rod, button and all out the top

 

[glippert]

I think, seeing as how you want to "fix" the bottom of the rod, if you cut the bottom off the rod where it makes the 90* bend, you may just be able to pull the rod, button and all out the top

That's not a bad idea. That way, I wouldn't have to remove the whole assembly. Just raise the front high enough to slide a new rod in from below. And I could avoid stressing the weak, narrow point of the release pin. Hmmm...

Any down side to that method that I should consider?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Greg, here's a link to a search I did of the forum regarding replacing the inner rod. I recalled that Denny Frisk had repaired one many years ago that he has mentioned a few times when this subject would come up. He had to weld a piece of bar stock onto the bottom of the new rod so I searched "lift weld" and posted by Dfrisk and came up with this:

Lift arm rod replacement

 

[glippert]

Greg, here's a link to a search I did of the forum regarding replacing the inner rod. I recalled that Denny Frisk had repaired one many years ago that he has mentioned a few times when this subject would come up. He had to weld a piece of bar stock onto the bottom of the new rod so I searched "lift weld" and posted by Dfrisk and came up with this:

Lift arm rod replacement

Thanks, Kraig. I looked in the FAQs, but I struggle with search terms. I appreciate your help. Now I have some reading to do.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Greg, glad to help. As to the search, sometimes you just have to play around with it and use different words or groups of words. Helps if you are thinking of a specific post and user name that posted said info, which can narrow down the results. It's fun to look back at the old posts, be careful though, it can lead you down a rabbit hole where you can spend LOTS of time reading about other Cub Cadet related subjects.

 

[rfunk]

. . . It's fun to look back at the old posts, be careful though, it can lead you down a rabbit hole where you can spend LOTS of time reading about other Cub Cadet related subjects.

And the problem with that is?? Always good to learn new stuff, never know where it could come in handy!!

 

[Beltrack]

David, I wasn't clear about holding the button down. I didn't mean that he has to hold the button down all the time. I meant to say that when he moves the handle to adjust the deck height, he should be sure the top button is pushed down all the way, so the L-bend doesn't rub on the ratchet and wear it down any more.

If I decide to remove the whole assembly, to address the rusted-on release rod pin (thumb button), I'll need to remove the fender pan and tunnel cover to access the coiled spring pins with my pin punch, right? Then slide the rockshaft out? I should probably start soaking those pins now...

“L-bend.” That’s a great description. My L-bend spins around making engagement with the cog problematic sometimes. What’s broke?

Thanks,

John

 

[kmcconaughey]

“L-bend.” That’s a great description. My L-bend spins around making engagement with the cog problematic sometimes. What’s broke?

Thanks,

John

What model tractor?