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Let clutch out in neutral to shift

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gloughery

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Oct 17, 2015
Messages
156
Location
Berks County, PA
displayname
George Loughery
Hello, I have to let the clutch out on my 122 before changing gears most of the time, then it is no problem to change gears that one time. I also notice my driveshaft is spinning faster (gears grind and teeth fly) before I do the neutral thing as well. My throw out bearing needs an adjustment but I don't think it is related. Any ideas what to check? (I won't ask if I need hytran in a manual transmission.) thanks all, the 122 is my work horse! Not only because it has three sets of IH weights, but also because it's the easiest one to get of a packed garage!
 
I could be the driveshaft is rusted up in the motor and is being forced to spin, it could also be some mis-alignment between the drive components and again, grabbing the shaft causing it to spin. You could try and spray some lube into the bushing/bearing behind the clutch and see if it helps. It did on my 73...

Hytran works very well in a manual gearbox. Makes easy shifting in the winter too.
 
I like the mis-alignment idea. The whole tractor was rebuilt recently and I remember putting the engine back in hurriedly in my excitement. I don't remember checking the alignment. Are you referring to the throw-out bearing for lube? I do have to depress the clutch pedal very softly to stop it from rattling. Thanks
 
T/O Bearing should not rattle
Sounds like it's time for a complete drive line check and/or refurbish including hangers levers and couplers and pins on each end.
 
Hello, I have to let the clutch out on my 122 before changing gears most of the time, then it is no problem to change gears that one time. I also notice my driveshaft is spinning faster (gears grind and teeth fly) before I do the neutral thing as well. My throw out bearing needs an adjustment but I don't think it is related. Any ideas what to check? (I won't ask if I need hytran in a manual transmission.) thanks all, the 122 is my work horse! Not only because it has three sets of IH weights, but also because it's the easiest one to get of a packed garage!
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_clutch.html
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x2-3 Service Manual.pdf
 
I like the mis-alignment idea. The whole tractor was rebuilt recently and I remember putting the engine back in hurriedly in my excitement. I don't remember checking the alignment. Are you referring to the throw-out bearing for lube? I do have to depress the clutch pedal very softly to stop it from rattling. Thanks
If you painted the driveshaft and then reinstalled it - the section that connects to the motor, the paint could be causing an interference issue as well. And Dave is right, the throw out bearing shouldn't be rattling. And no I wasn't referring to that bearing for lube. there's a connection where the driveshaft meets the motor, check that it's clean and free, try lubing ( sparingly!) and see if it frees up. Or if the motor is crooked it can bind on the shaft, you may have to loosen the motor mounting bolts and move the engine side to side to see if it helps the shaft turn freely.
 
absolutely will check all of that. This is becoming a younger mans game now that I am up and down on a cold concrete floor. I also have rear wheel weights for the Cub, and no way can I move them like I did just a few years ago. But I can manhandle the K301 easily. All is good and thanks again for the advice and FAQ.
 

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