Kohler M18S engine

[Thomas]

Phase separation is the act of separating the ethanol from the gasoline. This is achieved by adding small amounts of water to the fuel, the water blends with the ethanol and gasoline floats on water thus separation. I use about 2 cups of water per gallon of fuel.

Ok, well that sounds simple enough. So do you just pour off the gasoline into another container before you use it or do you just siphon it off ??

 

[Thomas]

Ok, well that sounds simple enough. So do you just pour off the gasoline into another container before you use it or do you just siphon it off ??

Ok guys, good morning to all those who helped me on the 1811 project. I went out to the garage and the Kohler fired right up. So I thank everyone who gave me the very helpful hints on this project. Have a great day guys, thanks again. Tom W.

 

[rmaclean]

If you have the choice to purchase premium non-ethanol fuel—do it! I have seen more problems with internal combustion carbureted engines linked to ethanol than I care to think about. Fuel injection systems seem to have less of a problem with it. However, leave some sit in the fuel system of a carbureted small engine for a few months and you have a mess...

The highest octane is better the ethenol draws in moisture if you are near a marine get there fuel they don't use ethenol near the water because it draws the moisture

 

[dramsey]

Ok, well that sounds simple enough. So do you just pour off the gasoline into another container before you use it or do you just siphon it off ??

I put it in a container with a drain valve. The water/ethanol will be at the bottom after a few hours so just start draining the container until you see the gas coming out, the water/ethanol will be a cloudy mix whereas the gasoline will look like gasoline.

 

[Thomas]

I put it in a container with a drain valve. The water/ethanol will be at the bottom after a few hours so just start draining the container until you see the gas coming out, the water/ethanol will be a cloudy mix whereas the gasoline will look like gasoline.

Ok then, I like that idea but I don't have a container like that, maybe I can make one. As far as the fuel I am not close to anyplace that sells marine fuel,. I did go out to get the non-ethanol gas yesterday but the station was closed?? I will get it the next time I am out that way. I also do not know if it is premium or not, but I guess it will still be better that the jink the sell today. Thank you very much.

 

[mgonitzke]

Regardless of whether or not you use ethanol-free fuel, fuel stabilizer is a good idea. I use it in everything. I have a few engines that sit 10 months of the year, and rarely do I have any issues with them since I started putting stabilizer in all of my gas.

 

[dgunn]

Regardless of whether or not you use ethanol-free fuel, fuel stabilizer is a good idea. I use it in everything. I have a few engines that sit 10 months of the year, and rarely do I have any issues with them since I started putting stabilizer in all of my gas.

There is a marine grade fuel stabilizer available. I've found it at Tractor Supply. It is supposed to protect the fuel system from damage due to ethanol moisture absorption.

 

[jnesbitt]

Another old trick (from my grandpa in the 60s) which has helped my equipment with fuel storage problems is store with a dry carb. IE: shut off fuel supply at end of use and run engine until it quits then shut off ignition. I turn it back on as first step in starting equipment and (with gravity feed) by the time I check the oil, it's ready to start.

 

[rfunk]

Another old trick (from my grandpa in the 60s) which has helped my equipment with fuel storage problems is store with a dry carb. IE: shut off fuel supply at end of use and run engine until it quits then shut off ignition. I turn it back on as first step in starting equipment and (with gravity feed) by the time I check the oil, it's ready to start.

AMEN!! I do this with my 149, and with my 1965 Eatons Tecomaster . . . add fresh gas to the old stuff in the tank, open the valve, and that beast starts in 2-3 pulls at -25C . . . after not being run in 2 years! You can see the fresh fuel diluting the bad old stuff in the sediment bowl! I usually also use the choke a bit on shut-down after turning off the fuel, that way I "sip" out as much fuel as I can out of the carb bowl. As an additional benefit, it runs the engine lean for a minute at the end, and cleans up any fouling on the spark plug.

 

[Thomas]

Regardless of whether or not you use ethanol-free fuel, fuel stabilizer is a good idea. I use it in everything. I have a few engines that sit 10 months of the year, and rarely do I have any issues with them since I started putting stabilizer in all of my gas.

Yes I do use Star-Tron fuel treatment when I put my other Cub Cadet (Zero Turn) away for the winter. I also always turn off the fuel shutoff valve and then choke it when it starts to sputter till it dies.

 

[Thomas]

There is a marine grade fuel stabilizer available. I've found it at Tractor Supply. It is supposed to protect the fuel system from damage due to ethanol moisture absorption.

Can you tell me the name of the fuel stabilizer you are talking about here?

 

[dgunn]

It's called STA-BIL 360 Marine. It's colored blue and the label says Ethanol Treatment & Stabilizer. Made by Golden Eagle Co. Web site is www.sta-bil.com

 

[Thomas]

Thank you very much, I will look for that.

 

[djkelley]

Amen to a dry carb. Shut of and run dry. Any engine.
2 strokes I run on E-Free gas. Amazingly they start when you need them

 

[Thomas]

Hey guys I am seeing all these nicely restored tractors on here an am wondering where they are getting the new decals from. If anyone can tell me please do.

 

[dmerkle]

Phase separation is the act of separating the ethanol from the gasoline. This is achieved by adding small amounts of water to the fuel, the water blends with the ethanol and gasoline floats on water thus separation. I use about 2 cups of water per gallon of fuel.

Looks like an accident waiting to happen in my book.

I've been running E10 gas for 15 years with no fuel related problems. As stated in earlier posts you need to run carb-fuel line dry when you are done using a small engine. I will add fuel or shake my small engine to get all the fuel components mix together again when I'm ready to use them. Good example is 2 cycle fuel. The first few ounces will be straight gas when you fill the gas tank on the engine. Oil is heavier than gas and the oil settles to the bottom of the fuel container. Same thing with ethanol.

Most if not all small engine manufactures say to buy enough fuel for 30 days or less use. When my fuel gets 30 days oil it is added to my pick up truck.

 

[Thomas]

Yes I do that today with all my engines, 2 cycles also. I never leave fuel in the carbs when I put them away for the winter.

 

[mgonitzke]

I used to drain gas out of everything that I was planning to store over the winter, but stopped when I started having issues with gaskets and seals drying out and then splitting when exposed to gas again, particularly the rubber bushing that the fuel shutoff valve goes into on the models with a plastic tank. Those, you better keep some gas in the tank, or you'll be replacing the bushing.

I've had a couple things that sat for more than a year with gas with Sta-Bil mixed in, and they still started and ran fine on gas that old.

 

[mfrade]

I also stopped running things dry, for the same reasons as Matt. I only keep a 2.5 gallon can of fuel here and add 2 ounces of Sta-bil before re-filling the can. Been doing this for years and never have an issue with "bad" gas. In Mass. the only fuel available is E10. I used to be able to buy Aviation fuel but it is brutally expensive and the company requires a plane number and name. We also have cans of "hi-test" straight gas but it's like 9 dollars a quart!

 

[Thomas]

Ok then, I think I am going to do just that5. I am going to be out where the station is that I can buy the ethanol free fuel tomorrow and I will stop at tractor supply and get the 360 Marine Stabil for my tractor, thank you again.