Kohler 12hp-no oil filter?

[Dustin Wilson]

Hi all,

As I have been trying to do as much maintenance as I can to my new-to-me 1250, it seems like there is no engine oil filter. Is this the case? If so, how often are you all changing the oil? Thanks,

 

[dschwandt]

No oil filter, it's a splash lube system, not pressurized.
Change at 30 hrs, straight 30 wt.
Info is all in the owner's manual available in the manuals section here on this forum.

 

[1811Cub]

Check the oil every time you use the tractor. Change every 25 hours of use. Use SAE-30 low ash oil in the summer months. Drain oil while the engine is warm.

 

[Todd]

I like to run those long surgical, wooden-stemmed *q tips* around the base of the sump once a year or so - just to see what may be accumulating down there.

I always make sure that it is fully soaked with oil and twist it to compress the fibers first. No sense risking any of that in there though the medical versions won't really cause problems for a fiber or two.

My grandfather used to use a kerosene rinse once a year and his outfits were always whistle clean. One pint or so would handle multiple items like; mower, generator, snowblower, log splitter... most anything rigidly mounted.

 

[Todd Wolf]

No oil filter, it's a splash lube system, not pressurized.
Change at 30 hrs, straight 30 wt.
Info is all in the owner's manual available in the manuals section here on this forum.

Where is the manuals section please, dont see it. Thanks

 

[1811Cub]

Straight from the Kohler owners manual TP-1346-C Revised 8/97...

 

[jkoenig]

How to get to the Manuals section:

Forums tab at top of page.
Technical Forums: select IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum
The first six threads are “stickies” meaning they stay at the top. They all include wonderful information. Spend some time devouring each one.

Manuals is the third one down. Select the blue Manuals link.
Thank Kraig for his efforts.

 

[dfrisk]

Arco Petroleum made a Graphite impregnated oil back in the 1980's, graphite is a great dry lubricant and Arco and I both thought it made a great motor oil additive, so I bought a case and ran it in my #72 for a couple years. When I rebuilt the engine it took me 2-3 hours to get all the black graphite off the bottom of the pan. That oil was only on the market a year or two.
I've been using Rotella 15W-40 oil in ALL my tractors, BIG and little, the Kawasaki engine manual for my Cub Cadet TANK recommends Rotella by name too, I use T-4 in the Tank and the 982, & 70, and Full synthetic T6 in the Hot-Rod K321 in the #72.
It's been quite a few years since I called Shell Oil's ANSWER MAN, they used to put the 1-800 phone numbers on the jugs & cans, I've asked and they have answered that the amount of ZDDP in Rotella varies by viscosity and grade, but most grades have 1200 to 1400 PPM, parts per million. More than plenty enough to protect the camshaft lobes and cam followers in any Kohler. Now if you had a BIG Block Chevy or a Hemi you wanted to Rev to 8000-9000 rpm a L-O-T, you might want to add a bit of supplemental ZDDP.

 

[1811Cub]

These small engines do not have the valve spring pressures to require the ZDDP like a flat tappet auto engine. Also, a lot of these flat lobes are also caused by horrid metallurgy, and lack of nickel in the castings. All of the SAE 30 oil has healthy amounts of zinc. Unless its cold, these old engines do not care for multi-viscosity oil.

 

[dkirk]

A magnetic drain plug is a suggested addition to the K-series Kohler engines. Most of the harmful metallic deposits in the engine oil are ferrous metals, generated from piston rings against the cylinder bore surface. A magnet will attract these particles and keep them out of suspension, thereby acting as a crude oil filter.

Not to start another oil controversy, but Kohler, as well as other small engine manufacturers approved the use of synthetic oils in all of their small engines. This includes the K-series. Recommended viscosity is 10W-30. Synthetics are much more suitable for hot-running air-cooled engines due to their stability and greatly reduced oxidation tendency.

 

[1811Cub]

A magnetic drain plug is a suggested addition to the K-series Kohler engines. Most of the harmful metallic deposits in the engine oil are ferrous metals, generated from piston rings against the cylinder bore surface. A magnet will attract these particles and keep them out of suspension, thereby acting as a crude oil filter.

Not to start another oil controversy, but Kohler, as well as other small engine manufacturers approved the use of synthetic oils in all of their small engines. This includes the K-series. Recommended viscosity is 10W-30. Synthetics are much more suitable for hot-running air-cooled engines due to their stability and greatly reduced oxidation tendency.

Do you have supporting documentation stating this?



These engines exhibit loose tolerances that the thinner oil will leak and burn easier.

 

[Todd]

Arco Petroleum made a Graphite impregnated oil back in the 1980's, graphite is a great dry lubricant and Arco and I both thought it made a great motor oil additive, so I bought a case and ran it in my #72 for a couple years. When I rebuilt the engine it took me 2-3 hours to get all the black graphite off the bottom of the pan. That oil was only on the market a year or two.
I've been using Rotella 15W-40 oil in ALL my tractors, BIG and little, the Kawasaki engine manual for my Cub Cadet TANK recommends Rotella by name too, I use T-4 in the Tank and the 982, & 70, and Full synthetic T6 in the Hot-Rod K321 in the #72.
It's been quite a few years since I called Shell Oil's ANSWER MAN, they used to put the 1-800 phone numbers on the jugs & cans, I've asked and they have answered that the amount of ZDDP in Rotella varies by viscosity and grade, but most grades have 1200 to 1400 PPM, parts per million. More than plenty enough to protect the camshaft lobes and cam followers in any Kohler. Now if you had a BIG Block Chevy or a Hemi you wanted to Rev to 8000-9000 rpm a L-O-T, you might want to add a bit of supplemental ZDDP.

Like experiences here.

Just two days ago I was talking to a pal about the time that he brought the new & wondrous *ARCO Graphite* around for me to use. I took his word for it until I glanced into the bottom of the first empty quart container and saw the sediment there. I couldn't get that first quart back out quickly enough!

Interestingly too, at the time, ARCO was the only lowest octane gasoline that would cause pinging in my Jeep. And a horrible knocking ping at that. This too, was a time when on-base (military) gas stations were allowed to sell at a higher water content than civilian stations and even THAT didn't make my Jeep knock-ping like ARCO gasoline.

As to Rotella - I've been sold on that since a kid and no matter how many times I'm swayed away I return to it and in fact, spend a few years at a time working my way through 55 gallon drums.

My old Suzukis, Both Scouts, Loadstar, Buick GS, Jeep, Land Rover, Moto Guzzis, light-duty engines, 7.3 Powerstroke, MGB, every hot-rod after break in and more all get it.

The only time that I deliberately use other is when all-but mandated like the Mini Cooper or Mercedes.

 

[Dustin Wilson]

I just learned that my 1250 doesn't have a fuel filter. Is it common practice to add one? I hope so.

 

[dschwandt]

Your 1250 w/plastic tank already has (or should have_ a filter in the tank as part and parcel of the shut-off valve.

https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/cont...aefeaf/9b6f0e42-45f9-4569-ab49-39b4ae5c1f9b/y

 

[Dustin Wilson]

Oh! Maybe I'll wait until fall when I run it out of fuel to replace. Thank you.

 

[dschwandt]

It has a fine mesh screen as part of it.
Just clean it good and reinstall.
It fits in a rubber ferrule and just pulls straight out.
Would suggest though that you replace the ferrule with a new fresh one as well as the fuel line.
3/8" all you will need to is 12" of it.

 

[rfunk]

Do you have supporting documentation stating this?



These engines exhibit loose tolerances that the thinner oil will leak and burn easier.

Anecdotal: my magnetic plug sure pulls a lot of metal out of my oil. (Somewhat delayed second oil change after rebuild)

 

[dkirk]

Do you have supporting documentation stating this?



These engines exhibit loose tolerances that the thinner oil will leak and burn easier.

You can visit the Kohler engine website and view the oil viscosity recommendations on synthetics.

What you state was true during the introduction of synthetic oils but does not exist with the modern synthetics lubricants.

 

[1811Cub]

I just went to the Kohler site.

What oil should I use?
Recommendations vary for each engine type based on engine and operating temperature. Please consult your owner’s manual for oil recommendations.

Can I use synthetic oil?
Synthetic oils meeting the classifications listed in your owner's manual may be used; however, you should still perform oil changes at the recommended intervals.

The PDF file on the Kohler site of the K-241 owners manual last revised 8/97:

Straight 30-weight oil is preferred. SAE IOW-30 oil is not recommended above 32F. Using this oil substantially increases oil consumption and combustion chamber deposits.

 

[bjames]

It's hard to find a definitive answer about synthetic oil in old K series engines but I would think it would be an improvement.

When switching from conventional oil to synthetic oil, fully drain the existing oil and remove the oil filter. Replace
filter and add KOHLER genuine oil. Your engine will immediately start seeing the performance improvement
KOHLER genuine oil is providing. It is possible there will be a small amount of residual oil in the system; however,
that is OK as they are compatible. By the second oil change, most residual oil from the past will be drained away.
In some occurrences there may be deposits that have built up over time in older or not well-maintained engines.
These deposits (sludge) can build up on the inside of the engine and otherwise plug failing gaskets and seals.
Over time, the KOHLER genuine oil will clean the engine and remove harmful deposits potentially exposing a
gasket or seal to leak. Those seals will need to be replaced.

https://kohlerpower.com/en/engines/popup-1